jake111

I just ordered a Victron 30amp DC-DC so things will work more reliably with the smart alternator. And I ordered a Victron 120vac charger so the next time I need a house battery, I can go Lithium. They won't get here before my upcoming camping trip, but we have hookups this time, so it really doesn't matter. I'll watch to see how the old system does since the camper has an isolator that connects over about 13+v and disconnects below that (worked fine for old school alternator). I know, welcome to the 21st century...

Obviously, I live in the past. In a discussion with a friend, we speculated that maybe it had something to do with getting better EPA or mileage numbers, by shutting down the charging system when not needed. The tow/haul comment by Wxman above got me looking around. I just looked through the owner's manual (digital version so I could search). No mention of tow/haul doing anything to the electrical system. Searching the 'net showed "Regulated Voltage Control" on some old models. Sounds likely even if the name has changed. To overcome the problem, the suggestions were to either (1) turn on tow/haul, or if that didn't work well for your application, (2) turn on headlights. I think the important thing is to be aware of this. I will be satisfied to know I can adjust whatever I need. While driving, so far the dash gauge seems to sit mostly at 14v (I only have 500 miles on the truck). But if it doesn't stay there, just turn on the headlights or t/h. That still doesn't explain the difference between being in Park or Neutral, but there are a lot of things that can't be explained (don't get me started!). Thanks for the replies!!

More... well, I guess it will charge in Park . . . sometimes. If I turn on the headlights and let the battery run down a little, then start the truck, it starts charging (although under 14v). So I guess it's ok. But if you have a camper or trailer attached and want to check that the truck is charging the house battery, you might have to shift to Neutral to check (with parking brake set and somebody sitting in the driver seat to make sure it doesn't roll away).

Put my old slide-in camper on new truck. Didn't seem to be charging camper battery. Hmm, didn't seem to be charging truck battery either. WTF? Took it out for a spin and slowly it came up to 14v on the dash gauge (couldn't check camper while driving, you know). Idling in driveway, no charging anything. 2000 rpm, no charging. You must be kidding!! Finally found that if I put it in Neutral, it slowly came up to 14v, even at idle. Why would some clever GM engineer think this was a good idea? Maybe others can verify that they all do this, or if it's just my truck.

Amazon?

Looks like 2-1/2 years ago I got a ~$14 no-name 604-106 actuator on Amazon, but the particular one I got is no longer available. There are lots of other cheap ones, but maybe read reviews to see which ones seem to hold up. Mine still works fine, and maybe more reliably than the original!!

I'm pretty sure you found the spec in the owners manual was for Dex-III and the Castrol certainly meets that spec. I don't know about the GM transmissions since I have the Allison in my 2004.5 Duramax. For the Allisons in that time era, it was found that the so-called compatible Dex-VI was not compatible with the Allison seals. If your transmission seals are compatible (you'll have to research that), the Dex-VI is fine. But that doesn't mean it's so much better than the Dex-III that it's worth changing out. If you're trying to replace most of the old ATF then it will probably take at least one more drain'n'fill. Each change probably only gets about half of the ATF replaced.

The GM "grapejuice" and the other major brands (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90) already have the proper amount of friction modifiers for the G80. Not enough, or too much, friction modifier will give you unsatisfactory results. I can recommend the Mobil 1 since I've used it for 15 years (over 100k miles) now without any differential problems, or chatter, or other ill behavior or noise.

Since I know exactly what you mean, I guess I have experienced this quite a few times over many years. But, I can't tell you if it was my truck or any number of the other cars I've had or have. I consider it normal. It's possible that I now subconsciously don't put a foot on the brake, or maybe just very lightly, when starting. Maybe somebody else has chased down this "problem"!!

Yep, there are several options as davester listed above. I went with what I think was the first solution, from Merchant Auto which is on the expensive side, but that's what it was 10-ish years ago. Other cheaper pump plates with wide ears are available now. Unfortunately, you have to take the transfer case out and apart to install any of these solutions. And there are some tricks you have to learn to get it apart. (My brother knew the tricks and already had a jig to hold the transfer case, so I don't know details.) The red-neck solution is just to find the pinhole, clean it up, and JB Weld it. Of course, you have to wait for the pinhole!! Or guess where it will be.

davester is correct. ALL of the diesels in 2004 (and similar years at least) with 4wd have a MANUAL transfer case. They came with 2 shifting styles (1) manual shift on the floor, and (2) push button shift (but NOT with an automatic or AWD button). The push button electric shift simply does the same thing as the manual floor shift (you can look at the transfer case). Dex-III is the proper fluid. Since that is officially no longer available, you should be able to find something labeled "for GM 2005 or older" or Dex/Merc ATF. GM "retired" Dex-III and at first claimed Dex-VI was fully compatible, but it isn't, and should NOT be used. The manual transfer case is simple enough that just about any oil will do (some even use engine oil). The expensive auto-trak fluid won't hurt it either, but isn't needed at all. The bigger issue with these transfer cases is "pump rub". The pump is suppose to rub against a hard steel clip in the magnesium tail shaft. Eventually, the steel clip breaks or slip out of position and the pump wears a pinhole in the case. The fluid leaks out over a period of months so it isn't noticed . . . until the transfer case runs dry . . . [added after-thought] There are several "pump rub" kits available to avoid this problem. There are also aluminum tailshafts available.

I'm pretty sure the GM OEM brake pads were ceramic. (19133306-F/19133307-R ?) Might depend on you year.

Yes, usually pads, and especially some 3rd party pads. I would suggest replacing with the genuine GM pads that originally came on the truck. Also, be sure the slide pins move freely and are lubricated (Syl Glide is popular but I haven't used it yet). Also, the pads need to move ("float") in the brackets (not tight, but not loose) and with just a dab of brake grease. I'm not sure about the rotors. They should be ok unless they have any coating from the old pads (and of course, aren't worn too thin or warped).

More important than what it says on the door, or what anybody else does . . . what does it say on the tires is the maximum pressure? If it's Load Range E, it probably says 80 psi; if it's Load Range D it probably says 65 psi. If the tire says less than that, it's probably not the right tire for your truck. Those are the MAXIMUM cold pressure ratings. If you are towing or hauling then you probably want to be at or near the maximum. If driving around otherwise, something less will soften the ride, improve handling, and help wear evenly. How much less? Watch for tire wear. It's like the 3 bears. If it wears in the middle, then the tire pressure is too high (papa bear, too hard). If it wears on the 2 outside edges, then the tire pressure is too low (mama bear, too soft). If it wears evenly, then it's just right (baby bear). If it wears just on the inside or outside edge, then it's an alignment problem. Oh, and don't go rotating tires every 5k miles or you won't have a chance to see the wear pattern. (Revealing my belief that the 5k mile rotation is pushed by tire dealers to cover up problems.)

The 5-speed Allison has PRND321 on the shifter. Press/hold the T/H button for a few seconds and you should get a D-with-slash on the cluster display, aka overdrive lockout. Press/hold the T/H button for a few seconds to re-engage 5th. They used this instead of a "4" on the shifter. When you count shifts it may feel like it's a 6-speed, but one of them is the torque converter locking up.

I'm not positive about our trucks, but for most (all?) vehicles just disconnect the light sensor on top of the dash. Yes, I know "just disconnect" might not be the easiest thing to do . . . unless you're willing to burn your bridges and destroy it from above.

Blend door actuators? Notorious for going bad. I just replaced one, but it was the easy one which just put heat to the driver side all the time. Rat nest? Other debris like leaves in the vents? But sorry, I don't know where to start looking...