jake111

1) The 6.6L L8T gasser already calls for synthetic 5w-30. That's what should already be in it. 2) The L8T does not have DFM. If one cylinder is guzzling, they're all guzzling. Your article is probably talking about the L87 in the 1500 trucks and other models, and yes, 0s-20 was too thing and caused big problems.

(posted twice for some reason. please delete)

I added a camera to the back of my slide-in camper. It helps fill in the blind spots and to see other vehicles coming up from behind.

If you had or bought an OBD-II monitor that can show engine oil temp, you might get a better idea of what's going on. I use a Scangauge II, which for the L8T (at least for 2024, you should check with the monitor support) has: Scangauge PIDs Description TXD RXF RXD MTH NAME Engine Oil Temp (°F) 33F122301C C4620530361C 3008 00090005FFD8 EOT

Here's a thread... I'm not sure which entriy this landed on, but the entire thread is full of ideas.

For many, many years, we have had a bike rack on the back. With hitch extensions, I could make a big enough gap to open the camper door and get in/out with the bikes mounted. I welded a step (black tongue sticking out under scissor steps) so we could step there, then on top of the hitch extension, and into the camper. As needed, we used a little step stool on the ground to get to the hitch step. With knee problems/replacement, wife can't yet step up that high, so I had to figure out a way to get more steps. Below are the pictures. The scissor step that came with the camper can rest on the hitch extension, and I built a wood structure to support and hold it in place. Works great and (most importantly) wife is happy. I added Timbrens in the back. It raised (at the axle) the truck about an inch, which is what I wanted. Yes, it rides just a tiny bit rougher . . . a lot like a 3500!! Hit some decently gusty winds in the mountains on the last trip and I think these made a big difference. Chuck mentioned a concern about only having 1 propane tank. I had that concern 19 years ago. Over the years I realized that I carry propane adapters and a spare 1 lb. canister. In the rare event you ran out of propane, just hook up the little canister. It'll run the refrigerator and heat water on the stove for a few days. Ok, probably can't run the heater or water heater. Actually, I also carry a 1 gallon propane tank for my propane generator that I never use. I've even had a stray thought about taking out one of my propane tanks and using the space for a 2nd house battery . . . still just a stray thought. If anyone is wondering, the tie-down strap in the lower picture puts tension on the bike rack so it doesn't rattle around. When bikes are on rack, another tie-down helps stabilize them (just snug tension).

For my "problem", I'm 99% sure it was me covering up the light sensor on top of the dash. Doh!!

Thanks for giving this some thought. Even the WT trucks have automatic headlights, just not LED headlights. I will check further, but uh-oh, I think I may have had something on the dash that partially covered the light sensor. I didn't think that was it because the dash and infotainment screen didn't just get dim, they were off. But this might be yet another case of operator error! I will check further and let you know how it turns out. I searched the internet for problems after that particular update. The ones that showed up were far worse than what I experienced (like their truck not starting). A solution that worked for some was to disconnect the battery, let it sit, then reconnect. So I also did that, but now I'm leaning toward covering the light sensor as the issue.

2024 2500 WT Gasser, less than 6k miles. I've had it on a few trips in the last 1-1/2 years (3k miles, 1k miles) without any issues. This week, on a short trip (<100 miles) the backlights on the dash would go off (gauges still worked, just hard to see), along with the infotainment screen (again, dark but could make out it was working), and lights on the climate control buttons (seemed like it worked, just couldn't tell what was on/off). This would happen seemingly at random times, and on return trip home it didn't happen for the first hour. At that point we tried to roughly time it, and the outages seemed to last about 4 minutes (but only 2 occurrences on way home). A couple of weeks ago I let GM do an over-the-air update (N25-F163BU). I hate to be suspicious, but... Or maybe it's a coincidence? I peaked at wiring diagrams. Egad, not like the good old days. Any ideas? I'm pretty sure I have to take my slide-in camper off to take truck to a dealer. Unless these things have super good logs, I would expect a "cannot duplicate" response. I guess I can call them (sigh). Take it out and make a video (sigh).

From 2024 owner's manual, about page 206: "The resulting figure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the "******" amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400-750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.)" ...and... "Subtract Occupant Weight @ 68 kg (150 lb) × 5 = 340kg (750 lb)" So yes, because we all weigh an average of 150 lbs. While my camper sticker (2446 lbs.) is technically a little more than what's in the glove box (2427 lbs.), it's just wife and me totaling about 340 lbs., instead of 750. Why, that leaves 410 lbs. for food, tools, clothes, and lots of other stuff. My camper weight sticker (what's left that I can read), includes fresh water and propane and something I can't make out (something about the refrigerator).

My advice is always to get the smallest, lightest unit that meets your minimum requirements. In 2007, I really wanted the Lance 815 because it was a couple inches lower, a couple inches narrower, lighter, and had slightly larger holding tanks. BUT, I would have to sit down to pee (or head up in the skylight for that or to shower) and the shower drained into the black water tank (a terrible idea when the tank fills and backs up and is now illegal). This 835 had an oven, a/c, awning (rarely use this), north-south queen bed (so you don't have to climb over the other person), 2 propane tanks, and probably some other advantages I don't remember, and was just $2k more in cost. Pop-up would be nice but we stop every few hours to rest or eat lunch or take a nap and didn't want to raise/lower all the time (I am lazy that way). We also wanted hard sides (bears?). Advantages/disadvantages no matter which rv style you choose. This camper went to Alaska when new, later (2014) from San Diego to Nova Scotia (actually, even north of there), up/down the west coast quite a few times, a 3 week trip every April, a 1 week trip every June, half a dozen local 3-day trips each year. A lot of 1 night stands along the way so quick/easy setup and take down are important to me (compared to, say, a trailer).

I don't extend the mirrors because it didn't really help much, and I don't like being any wider than I already am. If they mirrors were mounted lower, I would be able to sight below the camper overhang on the sides, but they don't and I'm not ready to start trying to swap out mirrors. I have high hopes the rearview camera works out. Holding tanks are 8 gallons gray, 8 gallons black. About 3 days max on the black. The gray is okay as long as no showers and very conservative on sink usage. Over 30 gallons of fresh. Standard traveling plan would be to stay every 3rd night with hookups, dump station, and showers. We sometimes have 3 night outings dry camping but then need to do something (RV park or go home). On old truck, camper had a couple of inches on each side when mounting and just needed a bed mat underneath. New truck needed over an inch of bed mat/plywood to clear side rails and shark fin. Probably less than an inch clearance on each side when mounting! Instead of just backing in I had to get more creative so I could roll camper side-to-side (and next time I will buy 4 car dollies to put under the jacks).

2007 Lance 835 on 2024 2500HD WT 6.6L Gasser Long Bed Bought camper new and put on 2004.5 3500 Duramax long bed. Sacrificed having space for a generator and larger holding tanks so camper didn't extend beyond bumper, so I could also tow a toy hauler trailer. Camper has been great for wife and me for almost 19 years now. I wish I had counted the number of nights spent in it (probably 1000!). Also wanted as small as possible for National/State Forests/Parks. The 3500 didn't need extra springing but definitely needed anti-sway bars for the back. Added StableLoads on the lower overload which helped a lot. The newer 2500 handles the camper better than the old 3500 (normal ride and in the wind). So far (one year) I haven't made any suspension modifications. Heavier duty shocks seem like what it needs right now (suggestions?). I wouldn't mind raising the back an inch or so, like maybe StableLoads again, but I'm not in a hurry. One problem with the new truck is seeing out the back. The mirrors just aren't working for me. On the old truck I could at least see along the length of the truck under the camper overhang on the sides. Not so on the new truck. I just added a $100 rearview solar wireless camera with 7" monitor to see out the back but am not quite finished and haven't tried it on a trip yet. Usually have a bike rack on the hitch but not in this picture. Wife just had knees replaced so no biking for a year (ouch!).

I got the Husky 79051 liners on Amazon. As above, be sure to check fitment for your truck. And read reviews because not everyone had the same experience as some of us. As with anything you get from Amazon, make sure you get what you ordered.

I got the Husky's from Amazon 6 months ago ($120). They fit my 2024 2500HD WT LB perfectly! Ok, installation is a little tricky to get everything lined up, and loosening (don't think I had to remove) the lower mud guards and figuring out how the liners fit with them. Oh, ok, one of the keepers lined up with a bed support so I couldn't put the keeper on the backside, but I just shoved it in and put goop on the head to hold it in. Liners are completely secure, cover just the right amount, and look good!

Sorry, I don't know anything about UltraGauge. I do have a Scangauge II and programmed some codes. These work for my 2024 2500HD gasser 10-speed. They might be the same for your 2021 Duramax 10-speed. (Ooof, or did GM change everything in 2024???) I looked briefly at UltraGauge and the parameters seem different, but maybe translatable (?). TXD = 33F1227053 RXF = C46205703653 RXD = 3008 MTH = 100010000 NAME = GER (or I used TGR) I got codes from Scangauge support (email) and they were very responsive and helpful. If these codes aren't right for your truck, I would think Scangauge support could give you codes . . . for a Scangauge. You might check with UltraGauge support to see if they can help.

10L1000 I'm sure for a 2500HD...

I have to thank bruceb58 for the custom 3d funnel design! Yes, I now have a $250 funnel ($200 for the Creality Ender-V3 SE and $50 for a big box of filaments) I was looking for an excuse to try this newfangled stuff. And now I know what a "slicer" is. And making a gcode file. I was a programmer for over 50 years but this stuff was new to me. And my 7-year old grand-daughter is excited because "all her friends have one". It's a new world. I haven't had an opportunity to try out the new funnel yet. I think it took 6 or 8 hours to "print".

Having different sizes on the back is still not a good idea unless you are only going a very short distance. While it may not be enough to lock the differential (yikes!!) it's like being in a continuous turn and the differential will be a-spinning. It's not made to spin like that for very long. If you have different size wheels, put 'em on the front and don't engage 4wd (except to just get unstuck, if necessary). I agree that I haven't had a flat on the truck, so having a different size spare doesn't seem like a problem to me.

I generally hate auto climate control. My old truck had it but when the weather was warm, it would blast the fan so loud you couldn't think. After that, it would just do whatever it wanted and not necessarily what I wanted. For 20 years it was always in manual mode (more like semi-auto because it still wanted to "help"). No problem in my new WT truck now! Just turn the knobs left/right to get what I need. Dual zone would be nice but this is good enough.

Chuck asked me a couple of questions. Sorry, guess I fell asleep for a week... No, never weighed truck/camper loaded or unloaded. Tag on camper says it weights a little under 2500 lbs. as equipped, with 35 gallons of fresh water, 40 lbs. of propane, and 4 cu.ft. of something I can't read because the tag has been cooking in the sun for 18 years. Holding tanks are only 8 gallons each so could be another 125 lbs. I'm not going to worry about it! Grill shutters? I live in the semi-arid desert (Southern California). We've heard of them but never even seen those things!! That's definitely something that depends on the original shipping destination.

For my 2500HD, it says max payload is 3327 lbs. The sticker in the glove box says the maximum slide-in camper is 2427 lbs. The owner's manual says to use 150 lbs per seat which for 6 seats is 900 lbs, which just happens to be 3327 - 2427 = 900, so that's why it says 2427 lbs for the slide-in camper. A generous estimate of our weight (with clothes and shoes) is 350 lbs, so I guess my CWR ("Cargo Weight Rating") is actually just under 3000 lbs. But this is all pretty ridiculous because there are so many other things affecting weight (food, drinks, tools, bike rack, bikes, etc.). At least mine says a slide-in camper is suitable!

Oh, just noticed you're in Canada!! 2024 2500HD 6.6L Gas WT Dbl Cab 4x4 long bed LBS. KG. GVWR: 10500 4763 GCWR: 24500 11113 CURB WT: 7173 3254 MAX PAYLD: 3327 1509 GAWR FRT: 5200 2359 GAWR RR: 6390 2898 This is with the LT265/70R17E all-terrain tire option. Add "automatic brake dragging on downhills" to my list of things I would hate. A sure way to overheat them and then not have them when you need them. (Bragging) When I sold my 2004.5 it had 180k miles and original brakes with a lot left on the pads (well, at least fronts because I never looked at backs); just bled new brake fluid every 5 years or so. I have hit strong crosswinds and had to slow down a lot, but it's so much better than my old truck maybe I'm just used to it.

2024 2500HD 6.6L Gas WT Dbl Cab 4x4 long bed GVWR: 10500 lbs GCWR: 24500 CURB WT: 7173 MAX PAYLD: 3327 GAWR FRT: 5200 GAWR RR: 6390 This is with the LT265/70R17E all-terrain tire option.

Funny you should mention hill braking assist. 2 miles from home on last trip, stopped for light on moderate uphill at light, took foot off brake and reapplied and it felt funny/hard. Hmmm. Repeated. Hmmm. DIC says something about Hill Braking Assist. Oh, I usually turn that crap off. I like to roll backwards sometimes! This and my 2023 RAV4 hybrid don't like me to, sigh. Yes, rear spring pack is 4+1. Overload is engaged with camper, but truck is level and rides nice! This L8T has a significant amount of torque, not as much as a diesel, but a lot. It actually runs down the road at lower RPMs than my old LLY did. It had no problems on steep hills. Steep downhill obviously doesn't have as much engine braking, but I just dropped into low gears (including 1) and go slow (or wife yells) and it worked fine. On my old 5-speed Allison, T/H made a noticeable difference: holding upshifts, aggressive downshifts, locking torque converter sooner. On this 10-speed, I can't sense when the torque converter locks or notice much shifting difference. Even so, I put it in T/H on steep up/down hills in case it does make a difference. On highways it does go between 7-10 but I assume that's ok. I also assume "wearing out" will mean the valve body and Nextgen may be sometime in the future.