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I wouldn't even consider gas for this mission profile. Not for one second. In general, having had gas and diesel HD trucks, I wouldn't consider a gasser HD because in regular times the resale is terrible. Especially towing a 5th wheel, do you want to stop and get 30 gallons of gas every 200-250 miles? My 2500HD Duramax gets 11.5 MPG towing, down from 13 MPG since I went with bigger AT tires. I was lucky to get 7-8MPG when towing the same trailer (30' bumper pull) with my gas HD (2017 F250 6.2). I had to stop about every 3 hours, where now I can stop every 5 hours. Makes a big difference when traveling long distances. Never mind the constant shifting of the gas engine to stay in the power band.

Still have one for Cadillac?

Took a look and didn't see anything around it. Oil level looks fine. Drove around town today seems to be at 30 PSI when moving, hair over 20 at idle. I rarely get over 3000 RPMs

About 600 miles since last Wednesday. Took truck on a 6 hour road trip yesterday. Oil looks good, coolant level is good, no visible sign of leaks or anything thus far. Very satisfied with that. However, one thing looks off - oil pressure. When cold starting in AM (5w-30, full synthetic) goes straight to 40 PSI. When engine is warm, at idle it's just a hair over 20 PSI. Running down interstate at 1750 RPM (75 MPH), it's 25 PSI. All readings are per dash gauge. Seems to be smooth and running fine, but this is about half what it was when it was new. I noticed on hard acceleration the gauge does move up some, but not like it used to. Did not plug the AFM towers, outside of the o-rings on the new valley cover. Kept in place high-volume oil pump, and did no mods to the pressure relief valve. I put a new screen in the oil pressure sensor area, the old one was pristine. Also, I did replace the cam retainer plate with a new one. Anything I should be concerned about?

Finished. Fired right up, had a little valvetrain noise but let it idle about 10 minutes, then drove from my shop to my house (4 miles) and by the time I got home it was quiet again like it used to be. Good oil pressure, drove just fine. Was much smoother (idle wise) than it had been, but I also put in new plugs and cleaned the carbon from the cylinders. Exhaust manifolds were a pain to install until I put a jack under the crosspipe, and lifted it just a hair, then the bolts went right in.

Head cleaned up

Pic of timing mark

Cam, lifters in, and valley cover changed. Worst part was getting the VVT Cam phaser lined up with the timing marks on the crank, because I couldnt' see them with the oil pump being there, and I couldn't pull the oil pump without dropping the oil pan, and so on. So before I pulled the cam, I set cyl1 to TDC (and cyl6) as well - easy to verify without heads. Timing mark on the cam phaser was at 6 oclock. Removed phaser, then cam. Did not adjust crank, again verified easily with the pistons. Installed cam in block, phaser on, mark showed off one tooth. Adjusted one and it points down to 6 PM again. Buttoned back up and hopefully I got it right. Heads go back on next with manifolds and radiator and then will fire her up.

Interesting about the varnish but nothing I'm going to worry about. As long as it goes back together fine and runs for another 90,000 miles I'll be satisfied. Got notification that my ECM is on the way back from LT1Swap, so should be all done early next week.

Most was oil on there. I could wipe it clean with a rag. What's the shellac/varnish from? No damage to pushrod or lifter that I saw...Will take another look at it before reassembly. I couldn't tell if it was collapsed, because it seemed the same size as the other long ones. Here's the heads. The left head is bronzed, I assume from the PCV.

Torn down. Easy to see where the #6 lifter was chewing on the cam a bit. Looks good internally. Hope it goes back together no problem.

Got all the exhaust bolts out easy, no PB needed. Didn't break a one. It's torn all the way to the heads at this point, been a piece-of-cake and hope it continues to be. No sludge and valvetrain looks new, all pushrods and rockers very good shape. Haven't seen the cam yet.

About to get started on this...any suggestions for how to get into the engine compartment without breaking my back? Was thinking of pulling wheels and letting it sit on the rotors? The front end sits up so high, and the engine is so far back in the bay, I'll be standing on a stool hunched over.

Just today a full AFM delete package from Scroggins Dickey Performance Center arrived. Has a 6.0 VVT camshaft, Delphi LS7 lifters, and necessary gaskets. Called and spoke with someone on the phone about what the recommended and I was pleased with the package and the pricing. Need to take a look and see what specific tools I need to disconnect fuel lines and hoses - probably some type of spring clamp removal tool. Any recommendations? Also I've been reading about exhaust bolts breaking, any special thing there? I'll buy ARP bolts if needed. Will start project as soon as Sunday. Gotta ship the computer off somewhere to have AFM disabled. I'm not too interested in performance tuning so buying a tuner is not in the cards right now. This truck drives around town and to hunting camp, got a Denali HD for any real work.

Just got off the phone with Chevrolet customer care. They suggested buying an extended warranty from a dealer and using that to get the engine repair completed.