astrozombee

So after a year of these intermittent issues we think it's cured. The Body Control Module seems to be the culprit. After replacing the BCM, the vehicle never hesitated to start on 95 degree days after multiple tests.

The ground wire to from batter to block and frame was the first thing replaced and that cleared up a lot of the issues.

I put a complete brand new fuse box with all new components in, and it still has the no start failure when sitting in sunlight. Symptoms that persist when the temperature of the vehicle(not cooling system) get to around 90-100 the system seems to work but it won't engage the starter the fuel guage does not move when key is turned on(everything else in the cluster appears to be normal) DIC warns of Check Suspension System Side monitoring system error Stabilitrack offline After opening the hood and opening the windows for about 10 minutes the vehicle will start. Something about heat is making a bad connection. or Are there any heat regulated sensor for the interior of the vehicle?

Checked on it today, 80 and super sunny, it would not start. Pulled the fuse junction box, very hot. After blowing it down, and moving around some relays that felt hotter than they should it fired up again. Not sure if it's just weak relays, or corrosion inside the junction box itself. So, i just ordered a new junction box with all new relays from GM Parts Store.

My 2010 Yukon Denali was giving me a plethora of issues: Door locks randomly actuating Gauges jumping all over while running, fuel gauge not reading at all radio restarting while running Stablitrak turning off randomly Wouldn't turn over for start and many more I replaced the battery cable to ground/block, and block to firewall connections this solved many of the phantom issues. the two remaining are won't turn over for starting fuel gauge stays off Some times re-seating the fuse box under the hood will allow proper function However this only happens when the vehicle is sitting still on sunny days warmer than 85 Degrees. Or in direct sunlight for a few hours of 80 degrees. My mind tells me that some plastic connector is expanding in the heat just far enough to break an electrical connection, or a broken molded piece in the fuse box. Any input would be appreciated. I am very certain it is just a simple connection issue. the vehicle runs fine 11 months out of the year, only issues pop in the summertime, and then only on the hotter of the days here in Pennsylvania. I've sent it to the dealership a few times, they replace some sensor and it seems to be fine, until it gets hot again. My dealership does not know how to trouble shoot, if the computer doesn't tell them what is wrong they are clueless. However with phantom electrical issues bad codes are gong to happen.