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Found 8 results

  1. https://share.icloud.com/photos/07fPc8Q-zYTTNT4psmCkhHteA i have a 2018 Sierra and the radio screen randomly started glitching and blacking out, however I can still touch things, the audio works, i can make phone calls and navigation works. I already pulled the fuse and replaced it and reconnected the gm interlink connections under the glove box. Also it doesn’t do it on the mornings when I go to work but on the way back it does. I attached a link for a video of it. Any suggestions?
  2. Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do. Accessories that DONT work Horn Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights Starter Power Windows Accessories that DO work Overhead lights Keys lock and unlock truck I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions.
  3. Hey everyone, So I made this account after reading thread after thread about the Intellilink system issues that people have been having. I literally JUST bought my 2014 GMC Sierra TODAY! The dealership I purchased it from is about 1.5hrs from my house and about halfway through the drive on the way home from the dealership, the touchscreen would not respond. It still would show volume and change the song title when I used the buttons, but when I tried pressing any of the touchscreen icons to do anything nothing would happen. On a rare occasion, it would lag and think I'm pressing it when I'm not. I got back home and immediately called GM Support. They had me "refresh" the radio, which was just turning off the truck for 5 minutes and turning it back on. It worked after that. However, about 2 hours later, I'm back with the same issues. It happens randomly when driving. VERY VERY frustrating. Has anyone experienced this?? I am not having any blackouts (yet, thank God), but just having issues with trying to press the icons on the screen and them not responding. ANY and ALL feedback would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks guys!! Adam
  4. Taking my 2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 to the dealership this week. Any recommendation on issues to have them take a look at? I'm 6,000 miles away from hitting my 36,000 bumper-to-bumper warranty life.. thanks!
  5. New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas? Thank you, Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner
  6. Rear speakers are very quiet even at max volume. Fading to rear doesn't help. They are factory speakers. Not Bose or anything special. Can't imagine replacing speakers would help. Not sure if there is an amp for it or ran from radio itself Answers?
  7. This is my first post and I'm new here. I have a '07 ext cab Silverado, 4.8, 96,000 miles, non-flex fuel, LT, 2WD, 3.23 rear, in Tennessee. The problem started one day when I left a traffic light. I took off and when it reached around 10 mph, it dumped out and then picked back up as if it was out of gas, which I thought it was. It was very low on fuel. I stopped and got some gas but the problem persisted and got worse. I thought I had let the fuel level get low enough to pick up some trash from the bottom of the tank. I've done this before and it clogged up the fuel filter. But, alas, there is no serviceable fuel filter on this truck. I continued driving it with the sputtering/dumping/hesitation/whatever you call it. It feels like you hit the throttle and then once it starts going you've turned the key off. But it picks back up. I finally got a "check engine" light so I pulled the 3 DTC's, which were all fuel pump related, one being the fuel pump relay, which I changed. Cleared the codes, they came back with a vengeance, so I exposed the fuel tank from the top. Back in the day, I could pull the bed off a Silverado with one other person and set it on the ground. This truck has a heavy bed, plus I had no immediate help, so I devised a slick way to slide the bed back three feet by using a couple of 4 ft 4x4 posts and two pieces of 6 ft. conduit, but that's for another post, I guess. Anyway, I pulled the pump, set the pick up in a can of gasoline and wired it straight to the battery. It made way more noise than I thought it would make, plus it barely trickled gasoline out the supply. So I disassembled the rack and cleaned everything to where it all looked like new and tried the straight wire thing again. Same result, so I ordered a new Delphi fuel pump assembly and waited three days for it to show. Hey, $256 vs. $526 at my local dealer is worth a three day wait to me. In the meantime I dropped the spare tire and pulled the plug and cleaned all the terminals of the harness junction and verified a good ground. Got the new pump and installed it. The truck cranked right up and throttled up just as it should, so I put the whole thing back together and went for a test drive. It did the dump out thing almost immediately but not nearly as bad. Also, it doesn't just buck once. It felt like you were trying to break a horse, as if someone was driving and going from no throttle to wide open throttle and back again. If you barely used any throttle at all, it would almost act normally so I knew the problem was in the fuel delivery. However, within ten minutes the engine had sputtered to the point that I barely got it back in to my driveway. Now it will not crank. Fuse, relay and fuel pump have been changed. Ground and wiring are good, but I'm about to put it on jack stands and recheck the ground because I have a funny feeling about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I rebuild muscle cars from frame off and everything in between so I'm the guy that has never taken a car to a dealer or a repair shop for anything. My day job is as a Network Engineer so I was one of the few that welcomed the auto computer age so that doesn't scare me either. I will say, though, that this truck requires some searching if you're looking for something like a relay. Thanks in advance for any help.
  8. After today my truck idled and drove like absolute crap. I had recently put new gaskets on the water pump and it seals just fine, not leaking anywhere, temperature is fine. Before hand I never over heated it or anything. It holds good oil pressure and temperature is around 200. I heard because the headers and exhaust is cherry red it could be running extremely rich. I personally thought that the catalytic converters could be clogged and is not exhausting enough. I replaced 02 sensors and replaced the CPS (Crankshaft position sensor). I read the codes before all this happened and the MAP sensor did not come up. Any feedback would be nice. I know its hard to troubleshoot when its not in person but any feedback will help.
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