DwayneJ

Look for value, if you find comparable LQ4 and LQ9 and the LQ9 is another $800, you could make the LQ4 better for that $800. The difference is flat top pistons for more compression and 91 octane tuning, betting the tuning is half the 20hp stock difference, maybe more.

Everyone has a hobby that they "waste money on", if someone is willing to spend say a grand swapping to a junkyard 6.0l and in the precess say flush the cooling system, tranny and power steering so be it. How many folks spend more smoking, or sitting in bars, or on season tickets to professional sporting events etc. Years ago I had a coworker give me greif for modifying my everyday car, guy was a complete jerk about everything in life. I simply responded I spent less on my car than he did smoking and spending weekends in the bar, NEVER heard another word from him on the subject in the 8 more years I worked with him. One other guy gave me greif, but he had a new Lund with 4 stroke Honda and all the electronics, that he wouldn't take out of the garage because gas was expensive at the time. I had less in buying and modifying the daily driver car than he had in a boat he wasn't using. If you enjoy working on vehicles or even just enjoy a little more pep and this way get to enjoy it ever day then why not. Just don't get carried away and put some huge duration cam in that lugs and surges and such. How many folks get to enjoy their hobby on the way to and from work each day?

With a 2wd a gear swap may be easier, but an engine swap is most definetely easier than a gear swap at both ends. I have done R&P swap probably at least 6 times, I would rather swap an engine. A whole axle housing might not be so bad depending how bad the brakes are to bleed.

You could always do a few simple lods to the 5.3l before swapping it in and then combined with a tune it would make a large difference. The 4.8l are popular with guys wanting turbo setups in smaller cars, the 4.8l limits lowend torque so they can launch and the turbo makes the HP later. Heck the 4.8l pistons are a popular upgrade in 5.3l motors to raise compression because they are flat top.

You can not compare factory numbers to crate engine numbers, the testing is very different. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1307-ls-cam-test-comparison/ First baseline test there is a LM7 tested as a crate motor would be with possibly better than factory tuning.55hp 50tq up on factory rating. The ATK engine can't be all that aggressive seeing as the graph ends at 6000rpm. The factory engine is tested exactly as installed, crate engines often aren't even driving so much as a waterpump much less full accessory drive, air filter, open headers instead of manifold and full exhaust etc. 450hp at the flywheel from a 6.0l should be mild yet, start talking rear wheel with in car losses and a 3500stall is likely appropriate but still not all that nasty.

Just west of Appleton

I would be embarrassed if I put together a stroker motor with aftermarket heads and a blower and only made that.

I think the 4L60E 8.5" 10-bolt combo should be fine so long as it does not have a gov-loc and is used for the street/strip, heavy offroad and big tires is another story, all kinds of shocks loads and inconsistent traction can do a lot of damage. The 4L60E gets a bad rap because so few take the time to put it together right, most shops just try to throw parts at it rather than blueprint it properly.

When looking for performance, people get way too hung up on displacement. Yes it can help BUT at the same time the heads and cam are where airflow comes and goes from. A 6.0l is a good place to start for performance but from there do not fall into the "magazine" rut, magazines push advertisers parts and usually those are mediocre performing and expensive. Once you have a nice CAI and exhaust you need to decide if a mild cam like a ZO6 cam is right or if you are looking to add more serious power. If looking to get serious, ported heads and a complimentary cam can add a LOT of power.