That would depend on how much rake you want to keep. If you want to keep the same rake as stock, go with the same size in the rear. Otherwise if you want to keep a slight rake, use a 1" block. Be sure to use new U bolts when installing lift blocks, the original U bolts are stretched when torqued and should not be re- used.
citydriver replied to Zane's topic in The GarageIf I had to guess, I would think it might have something to do with the 10 speed AT. But I have no info, just an educated guess..
citydriver replied to Bryan Hill's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMI realize that your post/question is over a month and a half old, and I hope you have it fixed. But I always replace the headlamps in pairs, if one goes the other is usually not far behind. Also the next time you have to change them, pay close attention to the bulb connectors/sockets to make sure they are not burnt and/ or melted. A thin layer of di electric grease is also recommended for the terminal connections.
This is not meant to be a knock, but take it from one who knows. I've found that "going cheap" ALWAYS costs me more in the long run. You may be better off with an air bag helper system to level out the load without compromising ride quality, adding unwanted ride height, or stressing suspension components. the higher you go up front will require a total lift package, including control arms, knuckles and differential / lower control arm relocation to correct CV angles if it is 4WD. Which will cost considerably more than a decent set of air helper springs.
There is a relay, but it's not serviceable, it's a PCB relay mounted to the board inside the under hood fuse block that is triggered by the BCM after it receives a signal from the transmission control module. But I would check the fuse and the fuse socket / connections. I have been noticing some corrosion on my under hood fuse block connections lately. On both sides, the top you can see and the underside that you can't see. I basically removed the under hood fuse block to clean and inspect ALL of the connections for the fuses, relays and harness connectors under the block, then used a plastic bristled brush and applied a thin coat of di electric grease to all of the contacts. I did this as a preventative measure to help keep the corrosion from getting out of control. Hopefully that's all you will find is a dirty connection. Otherwise you will need a Tech2 or similar to check the signals from the modules.
citydriver replied to andyvillen's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDI was going to suggest the GM Upfitters website, but the diagrams for to 2001 seem to be unavailable. Unless someone else chimes in with a source. You can try your local library ( I know, OLDSCHOOL) or a subscription to ALLDATAdiy.com , Haynes online or Chilton diy. I've been using the ALLDATAdiy for awhile and have access to all repair information and wiring diagrams.
citydriver replied to Black Betty 13's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMLooking at the description, these should have H1 LED bulbs. LED's are polarity sensitive, Make sure the +(pos) and - (neg) are in the correct positions on the bulbs. I have run into cases where the harness connectors are wired opposite from the vehicle connectors.
citydriver replied to SoCalChris's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMNot being familiar with the vans electrical system layout, I checked the wiring diagrams in the up fitter and found: 12 Volt Power Outlet Receptacle Description and Operation The accessory power receptacles and cigarette lighter receptacle are supplied with battery voltage when the ignition is ON or in the accessory position I would verify this, then either tap those wires behind the cigarette lighter, or use the +12v power wire to trigger a relay that gets its power from the underhood electrical center. Again, I'm not familiar with the late model vans, but that junction block behind the "b" pillar may be behind the side wall trim panel near the pillar. I wouldn't hook the USB ports directly to the battery as they typically do create a parasitic draw even when they are not in use. Good luck.
citydriver replied to bgbdwlf2500's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMYou can use the reverse lamp circuit, they will come on at night when you unlock the vehicle. They will also turn on when in reverse and illuminate the sides of the truck.
Does the "Check Engine Light" go "ON" when you turn the ignition on? Can you hear your fuel pump energize when the ignition is first turned on? It should go on for a couple of seconds and then shut down if the engine hasn't started. If not, double check your fuses again, the ECM/PCM is probably getting power if it's setting a trouble code, but that's a couple of the first things I check. I don't remember if all 2003's came with VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) Is the "SECURITY" light on or flashing when you're trying to start it?....Also, as a precaution, NEVER use a standard test light on any of the computer/module circuits. A digital multi-meter or LOW IMPEDANCE test probe should be used to check module circuits to prevent damage to the computer/modules. You may also want to consider getting a repair manual with diagnostic flow charts to help you diagnose your problem. alldataDIY.com is one source that I use, it is a subscription service as most are, but for me, it's cheaper than throwing parts at a problem. I hope this helps
If you don't find a problem with the exhaust manifolds, I would also check the flex plate/flywheel for cracks near the crank mounting bolts. They can usually be seen with an inspection mirror. the crack will appear to look like a rusty lightning bolt. That's the closest visual reference I can come up with.
citydriver replied to Muddydrake's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDGlad you found it, congratulations! It's always a pain trying to find mistakes made by someone else.
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