thx1138v2

After researching the 4L60E rebuild process I decided to take it to a shop. They looked at it and quoted me $3695 to do a complete rebuild. That sounds about right to me. I had a 4L60E in my '94 Sierra and it was around $3500 to do a complete rebuild back in 2000. Does the price sound OK with you guys?

I finally got it out. After taking the exhaust manifold off it was a piece of cake. So I have replaced it and put everything back together and topped off the transmission fluid. it runs OK. But it's not shifting correctly now. It doesn't want to shift out of low. It will if I release the throttle. It shifts OK after that - shifting up and down. But next time I try to accelerate in first, I have to release the throttle at around 3000 to 3500 RPM to get it to shift. I guess I damaged it by driving it when it was low on fluid. I wasn't aware of a problem until one day I was going up a fairly steep incline and it wasn't shifting out of first coming down the back side. I was on a huge overpass with no immediate exits available so I kept driving it until I got home - about 3 miles. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the advice. I'm removing the tube because it broke right at the mounting bracket. Since I don't have it out yet I'm not sure what caused that but when I look at it from above I an see the opening of the lower portion and when I attempted to put transmission fluid in it ran out on the ground.

BTW my 2 foot long breaker bar is a Craftsman 1/2" so I don't think I'll have any problems with that one.

Thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking a left handed thread would be crazy in that location. I've got a 2 foot long breaker bar so I guess I'll try that. I was also thinking of using my heat gun to warm it up first. Any thoughts on that?

I have been trying to remove the transmission fluid filler tube on my 2007 GMC 4.3L 4L60E WT but am not having any luck. I can get a socket on the 13mm nut that attaches the tube bracket but I can't get it to loosen at all. Now I'm wondering if it is a left handed thread. I'm not sure what is going on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had a similar problem with the engine dying with no rhyme or reason. It turned out to be a crankshaft position sensor. It didn't throw any codes either. This was on a 2007 GMC 4.3L and I ended up loading the parts cannon and finally found it that way.

Are there any known "Tips and Tricks" to getting the lines that attach to the top of the fuel pump back onto their appropriate nipples? I've got 2 back on but the largest one just won't go on. All of the videos I've viewed make it look easy peasy but I just can't get the large one back onto its nipple on the fuel pump. I've tried WD-40 on the nipple and inside the fitting but I just can't get it go on. I've been squeezing the outside front of the fitting and wiggling it back and forth and pulling on it but it has defeated me. Could someone please explain to me what each of the 3 lines on the top of the fuel pump are used for. *********************************************** Never mind. On closer inspection the fitting was completely on and secure. My bad. The 3 lines are the fuel to the engine (closest to the cab) and the other 2 are evap lines.

Good advice. Thanks. I've been trying to tilt the bed over to the passenger side to get to the pump on the driver's side. That is quite a bear. I'm taking a break right now and might look at it again when I get back to it. Thanks again.

The reason I ask is that this fuel tank has two things that go through the top of the tank - the fuel pump assembly with the float and something goes through the top of the tank near the rear. Do you know what that 2nd device is?

Is the "fuel level sendor" the same thing as the float that is attached to an arm inside the tank?

I had my ECM replaced and ever since then the fuel gauge reads incorrectly. It throws a P0463 code, "Fuel level sensor A circuit high". I filled the tank to make sure it would read something but the needle stays on "E" and the LED stays lit all the time. The shop that put the new unit in said they had it reprogrammed. Is there anything I need to do re-calibrate the sender in the fuel pump and the gauge in the cab?

Tank and fuel pump looked OK. I didn't see any debris anywhere. I guess I'll have to look elsewhere. The endoscope inspection worked OK.

Debris of any kind and rust flakes from the tank being flooded with water and the sitting for an extended time.

I need to inspect the interior of the gas tank on my 2007 GMC Sierra. It's a 34 gallon tank and it is almost half full of gasoline. Is it safe to inspect it with an LED endoscope? I'm going to do some testing in the morning before I attempt to inspect the tank so a quick reply would be appreciated. https://www.kentfaith.com/GW45.0024_industrial-endoscope-camera-4.3-inch-hd-screen-1080p-orange

How would a temporary clog of the in-tank filter show up on a pressure test?

It doesn't have a fuel filter. The ignition control module is new and I renewed the temperature grease on the back between the module and the heat sink and the heat sink and the steel bracket. It runs fine when it runs so that rules out clogged injectors and vacuum leaks. It is a 2007 model so it has OBDII but throws no codes. Do not try to adjust the idle. OK. IAC is new so that's not the problem. It is an LU3 engine so I can't see the injectors but it has 6, not 2. Coolant temperature shows on interior gauge and is acceptable. Ambient is about 90F but it doesn't matter if I'm driving in early AM or late afternoon, I have the same problem. I tried to bench test an O2 sensor this morning but couldn't get it above ~375F with my propane bottle. I'll have to get some oxygen for my oxy/acetylene rig. At this point I'm thinking it is running fine while in open loop but stumbles and dies when I come to a stop and it has switched over to closed loop. I can go a couple of miles but when I come to a stop it dies. If I let it cool off for ~30 minutes or so it will start and run fine until the next time.

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I'm having a problem with this truck. Once it gets warmed up and I come to a stop light or stop sign the engine dies. It won't restart unless I wait for 20-30 minutes. Then it restarts fine but will die again unless I put it in neutral and keep the RPM's at about1200 at the next stop. I can get it home that way. Does anyone know how to raise the idle on a 4.3L Classic throttle body engine or have any other advice for curing this problem? BTW, it doesn't throw any codes. It just dies.

Thanks. That confirms what I was thinking. I didn't find anything anywhere.

I am installing an Ignition Control Module in the above vehicle. Is there any learning procedure to complete before it is ready to run?

My wife's truck had a problem that may be related. There is a thing called "Variable Assist Power Steering" that routes the power steering fluid through a valve on the steering column. It is supposed to work like this: while the truck is sitting still in a parking lot it requires more physical effort to turn the steering wheel so the "variable assist" gives you more power to turn the steering wheel. Once you are moving, however, you do not need this assist and, in fact, you do not want it because it will make driving at speed dangerous - the truck becomes very "twitchy. So there is a sensor somewhere that detects the speed and reduces the amount of assist. In the application notes in the latter file the 1997 - 2001 Silverado/Sierra is stated. My wife's truck, however, was a 2006 Silverado 4X4. The attached files below show the sensor. PT 20-0024.pdfPT 20-0031.pdf

You probably need to bleed the anti-lock system. I'm not sure about the '04 Silverado but it's located on the frame rail under the driver's side seat on my '07 Sierra. They are tricky to get right so if you don't know how to bleed it take it to a shop.

It could be just the bulb.

I had a 2006 Silverado 4X4 with 5.3L engine. It had a device called a "power steering control valve" that fit somehow on the steering shaft. It's purpose was to boost the power steering when sitting still and it was hard to crank the steering wheel over and then reduce the boost when you got up to speed. It worked fine when it was working but when it went out is was a bear to crank the steering over either right or left. You might look into that