awbooth

New tires, checked suspension parts, I’m passed the obvious and looking for someone who went through hell like I am but has the solution. Sorry, I should have been more clear. Thx for your input

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado, 4.8 liter 4x4 extended cab.. experiencing a serious steering wheel wobble on the highway.. not always though, confused... any thoughts? thx!

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado-4.8 liter 4x4-105 amp alternator. I've been using the wrong size serpentine belt. Let me explain. I was getting a squealing/chirping sound coming from the belt. I checked all pulleys, bearings etc. All good. I've been running an AC Delco 130 amp serp. belt instead of the correct 105 amp serp. belt. This is the part number I've been using- AC Delco K060930HD. GM# 19186305. Length is 93 9/16. All my recent research shows this belt is WRONG for my truck. My question is: What is the correct belt part number for my truck? More importantly, what is the correct length I need to buy for the drive belt? My alternator is a 105 amp, NOT a 130 amp. I already purchased the correct AC belt, no way to screw that up as there is one size, there is only one compressor, one tensioner style for AC. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx! Anthony

Ok everyone! First off thx for all your responses. Appreciate you all. I have the solution which is going to be hard to believe but it worked. Disconnect the battery. Wait 15 minutes. Remove the air bag, tricky as you need a flat blade screwdriver to move the horn contact mechanisms, 2 latches behind the steering wheel releases the airbag. Unplug airbag, sit to the side in a safe place. Remove the red horn contact wire that plugs through the steering wheel clockspring area. Remove center nut, use steering wheel puller, remove steering wheel. Remove upper and lower column covers. Remove the 2 torx screws holding down the multipurpose turn signal mechanism. Clean the brass plunger ring that bounces in and out of the back of turn signal mechanism. This plunger rides on the back of a GREEN RING which has a brass plate going around the back of the entire clockspring location. Clean the brass ring that sits behind the clockspring. Use electric grease on the brass ring. Now you have 2 choices. You can purchase a new signal /wiper/ cruise control mechanism as the new part will come with a new brass plunger which is NOT worn down from years of getting worn down every single time you turn your wheel, OR.. you can apply a small dab of solder on the tip of that brass plunger, carefully install the signal arm bag on the column and gently pressing the brass plunger(with new solder on the tip)behind the brass circle plate, re-install the torx screws, re-install everything in reverse. The horn works perfectly every time now!!!!!!! Couple things to consider as well. You should replace the 2 horn contact leads that mount to the steering wheel as the red springy part does get dirty and wears out. I initially thought that was the problem but replacing it didn't work. However you have everything apart so you might as well replace them. I have taken in consideration the spot of solder I applied to the brass tab/plunger will wear down over time but I really don't give a ******. The point is... it's fixed! On to the next project.....

Someone wrote directional switch... Interesting, no idea what the directional switch is or where it is located... any advice would be awesome. I will say that the spring connector that attaches to both of the horn Dorman 924-089 Steering Wheel Horn Contact pieces plugs right into the clockspring behind the steering wheel so I'm assuming the horn signal goes through the clockspring. As I said, the weird part is when the airbag is off the steering wheel I'm able to push in the steering wheel horn contacts and it sets the horn off perfectly. Horn works everytime however once the air bag is plugged back into the steering wheel the horn doesn't work barely ever. Keep in mind I've tried pushing on the airbag pretty hard, nothing! Something is not right.... Someone mentioned replacing the airbag... is that because the two metal tabs on the airbag that plug into the horn contacts are no longer grounded?

Ok, so I just worked on it and this is what I did.. I removed the airbag, cleaned all the contact leads, cleaned the copper contacts that are screwed to the steering wheel that the horn contacts touch when pushing the airbag. I then kept the airbag plugged in but off to the side. Hooked up the battery, walked over to the steering wheel and manually pushed the horn metal spring pieces to activate the horn and it works every time. I pushed the top left of the connector, top right, bottom left, bottom right-horn went off no problem every single time... BUT!!!! when I re-install the airbag back onto the steering wheel it works 1 out of 50 times just like before. Is there a trick to make the horn work after installing the airbag back onto the wheel? I'm assuming the clockspring is ok as the yellow part of the clockspring was in the window, the 2 small arrows lined up on the clockspring.. What a mess. I'm trying to respond to everyone's comment as this forum doesn't allow me to respond to each message. I'll wait to hear back, thx! Anthony 4E709D02-13AF-437F-BDD9-05AF34137238.heic A71DD8B2-BDD8-4A4F-97F2-E16BE29596ED.heic

GENIUS! But the brain says to react by hitting the airbag horn

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado, 4x4, 4.8 liter K1500. My horn stopped working when pushing on the air bag. It works once out of 50 tries, nightmare. I did research and everything pointed to replacing the steering wheel horn contact. I purchased a Dorman 924-089 steering wheel horn contact, installed it, no better. Than I cleaned the copper pieces that are screwed to the steering wheel which is where the horn contact makes contact with the copper pieces which then sends the signal to the spring that plugs into the clock spring... Well, that didn't work for shxt! So yes, I know, I need to replace the clock spring. Good times. Has anyone tried to re-position their old clock spring? Is that even an option? Will replacing the clock spring resolve the horn issue? I have tested both horns on the truck multiple times and they work perfectly. Any help would be awesome!! Not sure where to buy a clock spring, I won't buy a used one on Ebay, that's a waste of money. Thank you Booth

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4x4. I purchased new power folding mirrors for a 2003 Silverado (aftermarket, not from GM) to replace my manual folding mirrors that only had power mirrors to adjust the direction of the mirrors. No heat(defrost) no turn signals, no power folding mirrors. The new mirrors have the following options: power folding mirrors, power directional mirrors, defrost and turn signals. I have been able to figure out the wiring for the power folding option, I have figured out how to wire the turn signal and defrost I think(orange and black wires-truck was wired for it, original mirrors didn't have the defrost option but the truck was wired for it.. Here is my dilemma... I'm unable to figure out how to wire in the directional movement of the mirror. This is the one option that worked on my old mirrors but now doesn't work on the new mirrors. Real nice right? Anyway... I'm going to include some photos to help you help me. My old single black 8 pin harness only had three wires feeding the mirror. White, Green and Yellow. I used a test light and found that when using the directional power mirror switch on the door panel each wire was lit up by going through the different directions. Hope I haven't lost you yet so please bare with me... The new mirror came with a 10 pin black harness and a 10 pin blue harness. Nothing plugs in or matches up, why would it. I take on the most complicated projects most people wouldn't bother with because I love aggravation. So I will include photos to show the wires of the blue and black harnesses. Keep in mind, I figured out the turn signal wires, power folding wires, its the directional wires I'm having trouble with. This is the hook up I tried and DID NOT WORK: YELLOW FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO YELLOW ON THE NEW HARNESS WHITE FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO LIGHT BLUE ON THE NEW HARNESS GREEN FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO LIGHT GREEN ON THE NEW HARNESS. You would think it was that easy, nope!! I reached out to the company that sold me these ebay aftermarket mirrors and they don't have a clue what all the wires go to or what they do. GOOD TIMES! So my mirrors are useless. I hope someone has attempted this upgrade successfully and is willing to help me. I'm assuming there is a ground wire that I missed which is preventing the directional movement of the mirrors to work. Or something else all together. By the way, I hooked my original mirrors back up, re-wired everything up as it was prior to taking on this stupid ass project and sure enough everything works on the old mirror. MEANING I didn't blow a fuse or damage the directional switch on the door panel. Any help would be awesome! Thx!

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4x4. I purchased new power folding mirrors for a 2003 Silverado (aftermarket, not from GM) to replace my manual folding mirrors that only had power mirrors to adjust the direction of the mirrors. No heat(defrost) no turn signals, no power folding mirrors. The new mirrors have the following options: power folding mirrors, power directional mirrors, defrost and turn signals. I have been able to figure out the wiring for the power folding option, I have figured out how to wire the turn signal and defrost I think(orange and black wires-truck was wired for it, original mirrors didn't have the defrost option but the truck was wired for it.. Here is my dilemma... I'm unable to figure out how to wire in the directional movement of the mirror. This is the one option that worked on my old mirrors but now doesn't work on the new mirrors. Real nice right? Anyway... I'm going to include some photos to help you help me. My old single black 8 pin harness only had three wires feeding the mirror. White, Green and Yellow. I used a test light and found that when using the directional power mirror switch on the door panel each wire was lit up by going through the different directions. Hope I haven't lost you yet so please bare with me... The new mirror came with a 10 pin black harness and a 10 pin blue harness. Nothing plugs in or matches up, why would it. I take on the most complicated projects most people wouldn't bother with because I love aggravation. So I will include photos to show the wires of the blue and black harnesses. Keep in mind, I figured out the turn signal wires, power folding wires, its the directional wires I'm having trouble with. This is the hook up I tried and DID NOT WORK: YELLOW FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO YELLOW ON THE NEW HARNESS WHITE FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO LIGHT BLUE ON THE NEW HARNESS GREEN FROM TRUCK HARNESS TO LIGHT GREEN ON THE NEW HARNESS. You would think it was that easy, nope!! I reached out to the company that sold me these ebay aftermarket mirrors and they don't have a clue what all the wires go to or what they do. GOOD TIMES! So my mirrors are useless. I hope someone has attempted this upgrade successfully and is willing to help me. I'm assuming there is a ground wire that I missed which is preventing the directional movement of the mirrors to work. Or something else all together. By the way, I hooked my original mirrors back up, re-wired everything up as it was prior to taking on this stupid ass project and sure enough everything works on the old mirror. MEANING I didn't blow a fuse or damage the directional switch on the door panel. Any help would be awesome! Thx! See attached photos. 1A7BD8A4-B91C-4AE4-B8DB-2CE3C1811E08.heic C9C8EDBB-20A3-4DDF-AB4F-300A8A92EE99.heic 5560A5ED-3EB4-4B69-B7D8-B554A241A412.heic

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.8 liter 4X4. I would like to replace my manual closing mirrors to power folding mirrors. Presently I have power controls to adjust the mirrors only, NOT the entire side mirror folding in. I understand there will be wiring work involved along with a toggle switch installation to open and close the mirrors. Ideally I would like to have anti-glare mirrors with built in arrow signals in the mirror but at this point being able to power fold the mirrors in would be awesome. instead of buying a brand new truck with these power options I wanted to upgrade my existing Silverado. I'm hoping someone has done this project already. Any help would be great! Thx! Anthony

That's what I'm afraid of. I just replaced the master cylinder and flushed/bled the brakes, installed new brake fluid, bench bled the new master cylinder prior to installation. My next step is to bleed the abs system with scan tool and than bleed the brakes again as I believe that is the correct order. The brake fluid was 4 years old so I went ahead and bled the old fluid out of the lines after installing the new master cylinder. Once the abs system is correctly bled I will bleed the 4 wheels again. It's amazing....I replaced all 4 calipers about 5 years ago and the bleeder fittings just about broke off but I got lucky. I air hammered 45 pounds of rust last year off the frame, support tubing and bed. Rustorado real bad! it's ok though, I love this truck. I use it for my handyman business in CT. I will follow up once I'm all done. Thx! Ant

Thx for your message. On your 2004 work truck did you also have the abs system auto bled with a scan tool? And did you still have trouble with the brakes after using the scan tool? Thx!

I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.8 liter 4x4 1500. I have done a caliper replacement, brake line replacements etc and bleed the brakes. When driving my truck the brakes work but I am able to push the brake pedal to the floor... Before we get into the ABS being air bound, should I be able to bring my brake pedal to the floor when I apply my brakes while truck is running? To be very specific... when I'm at a stop light and the vehicle is at a complete stop, should I be able to push the brake pedal to the floor? I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the way I bleed the system. Thx for all your help. Anthony