mikepol2

FINALLY - SOLVED!! It's the 120V AC plug where the center console meets the center dash. I removed the center console trim piece and could shake it and hear something rattling in it, the trim piece is just held in place with the snap-in tabs, here are pics of the bottom of it and the end of it where the power outlets are. The 120V outlet has 2 plugs that go into the back of it. The plugs come out by using a small screwdriver to press in the tab on the side of the plug. Then remove the outlet from the trim piece by pushing in the 4 straight plastic tabs on the sides of the outlet. Once it's out, remove the back by prying up the 4 U-shaped plastic tabs. The back assembly includes a little circuit board with copper receptacles. Trapped inside each of the 2 receptacle is a white plastic piece with a spring behind it. The copper is not tight enough to keep the white pieces from banging around. I just used needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs together tighter until they stopped being loose, but not so tight that the white piece didn't move freely. While the trim piece was out, I put duct tape in a few places just in case, but I'm not sure it was necessary. Put it all together and now my truck feels solid as a tank again. You're welcome for the free root cause analysis and corrective action, GM. My invoice is in the mail. (I also took pics below of what the center dash looks like naked, sometimes that's helpful for other things so here you go.)

I have a 2015 crew cab with 2,000 miles on it. At about 500 miles it developed an annoying rattle when you go over rough pavement that's hard to pinpoint but sounds like it's coming from deep inside the dashboard, behind the HVAC controls, and maybe a little towards the passenger side. I've tried all the fixes for interior rattles that I could find posted on various forums with no luck, so I started removing one part at a time and test driving to see if the rattle went away: - "A"-pillars - Windshield area defroster/speaker trim panel - Trim around touch screen - Touch screen - HVAC controls - Power pedal / cargo light / etc control panel - Upper and lower glove boxes - Black plastic shroud under lower glove box - Sunglass holder clip Then I had a passenger use a stethoscope with a rod end to try and locate the rattle, again with no luck. One thing I did notice was that there are small black hex head screws everywhere that you can remove with a 7mm socket. Every single one seemed to be barely snug. They screw into copper retainers with two wings that fit loosely into the dash. They SHOULD be tight when the screws are in place but I found one behind the cargo lamp light panel that connects the dash to the center console that was jiggling in it's hole even though the screw was installed! I couldn't reach the head on that one so I spread the two wings till it was tight in it's hole. Seems like at the factory the torque for the equipment that installed these screws was set too low or something. I tried tightening all the screws I could find (including under the fuse panel by the passenger door) but there are so many of these that I'm sure there are ones buried somewhere that I can't see. I think maybe one of these is loose and making the rattle, or at least the noise they make sounds similar to the rattle. This is driving me insane and I'm tired of giving people rides in my new $55K truck and having to listen to "hey what's that rattle? Isn't this brand new?". If anybody has found the cause of this rattle I'd LOVE to hear it, thanks.

Looks like plenty of adjustment room in the two end links for a drop. (I think you can just take out the factory rear spring blocks for a quick and free 1-1/2" drop.) Great glad to be able to help.

I didn't take any pics...there are pics in the installation instructions that are helpful, although they're not the best quality. It was the items in my original post that weren't in the instructions that will be the biggest help if anybody else installs one.

Yes, I think the ride is probably a little rougher in the back. But to me it's pretty minor compared to the improvement in cornering (I like to drive fast). If it gets too annoying I'll just replace the 20" wheels with 18's, I've done this in the past to get a smoother ride and it works great.

Today I installed a Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar on my 2015 crew cab and thought I pass along some notes... Saw it listed for upwards of $400 on some websites, but got it from SDTruckSprings.com for $225 delivered with a 15% Black Friday discount. Install took about 2-1/2 hours. The instructions that come with it are pretty crappy. I did not have to remove the spare tire as suggested in the instructions, but I have a long (maybe 12 inch) 1/2" drive ratchet extension and a universal joint that is necessary if you don't remove the tire. The supplied lubricant, if you've never used the white suspension bushing lube, is VERY sticky and a PIA to clean off your tools and hands. I used disposable gloves to apply it. I used a vice to press the four end link bushings into the end links. I did NOT have to relocate the emergency brake cable as listed in the instructions. Also, there is a brake line clamp behind the E-brake cable on the same mounting bolt that the instructions do not tell you what to do with, but I didn't have to mess with that either. There are cables running over the tubular crossmember under the bed where the upper U-bolts go. Make sure you wiggle the U-bolts under the connectors so you don't pinch them, you can't see them. I did not trust the torque values in the instructions. Seems that the U-bolts will just keep torquing as long as you want them to without clicking the torque wrench, but I think they may start to crush the crossmember if you put too much force into it. It did not line up perfectly on each side. I had to put the bar outside the end link with a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side, but inside the sway bar with no spacer on the passenger side. The end links seemed to line up best in the middle of the 3 holes in the end of the bar. I downloaded an inclinometer app and measured the body roll around a curve at 35 mph. The sway bar reduced the body roll by about 3 degrees. You can definitely tell that the truck corners flatter. It's no corvette but definitely better. All in all for $225, IMO it is a worthwhile upgrade. See ya!