efritz

you just need to add a diode from the current carrying side of the DRL relay (also, and separately) from current carrying of the headlight dim relay to the coil side of the fog relay. you can easily do it from the top of the underhood fuse panel by inserting the ends of the diodes in the relay terminals. I've done it twice.

You might have to be the first one and tell us how it goes!

Pull one of yours and see how many holes, then order the same ones if you have determined it as the cause. Did you check fuel pressure and the condition of your O2 sensors? These engines do not have common fuel injector issues, in my experience the p0300 code is often misdiagnosed, and the true cause is leaking intake manifold gaskets as the GM ones from 99-07 shrink over time and allow leaks causing mixture issues. As old school as this sounds, you can still pull the plugs after a hard bit of driving and see if one cylinder is grossly lean, tiny variances are not noticeable.

Yeah rust doesn't happen in the winter... It happens in the summer as the salt absorbs moisture and sits wet on the metal.

The bed is two pieces on these, and where they meet there is V shape above the wheel well in the sheet metal that is created. Salt and dirt collect here, stay moist, and rust the metal. There are three washout plugs on the upper backside of the rear fender just above the upper lip. Pull them out and flush with lots of high pressure water a couple times a year, especially in the spring. If you have rear wheel well liners (i.e. rust collectors) remove them and throw them away and then you can get at these plugs, otherwise they will be hidden. there are also a bunch of these plugs on the backside of the rocker panels, for your flushing convenience. Do this and the sheet metal will last twice as long, I do.

I would pull your 1-2 accumulator to see if it is cracked, it's easy to do in the pan, when one cracks, you get a slipping 1-2. Also see if the Vette servo helps, it may allow for more apply pressure. More than likely the 2-4 band is toast, along with the reverse drum. If you just want to limp a few more months, dump a couple bottles of lucas trans fix in and keep limping it along, but it's probably toast.

I've got 250k on the burban and it has seen more and done more than a semi and baja truck combined over those miles, all original drivetrain. Just normal replacement stuff like u joints and fuel pumps, etc.

I accidentally bought a lower temp stat and it did that. The only possible negative effect would be very slightly lower mileage as temps would be lower. You really need to get a scantool that can read live data to make sure the gauge isn't inaccurate.

I have Monroe reflex monotubes and love them. Very firm and controlled ride.

I've done this personally, DO NOT take the dash apart, that is wasting lots of time and effort. It takes about an hour to replace and is a son of a *&^%$ to get back in right, just deep breathe when the anger builds up, or go shoot bottles or something to prevent you from taking the anger out on the truck to get it out, remove the foot heater pipe and the wiring harness to the motor. Then remove the bottom screw on the motor, then when you get to the top screw, stick either a deep socket on it or a regular one with a small extension and turn with a pliers if you cannot get your ratchet in there. After a turn or so it should be able to be turned by hand, then pull the little bugger out of the crevice it lives in, paying attention to how it sat in there. Then get your new one and make the little nubs that stick out of the valves line up with the grooves on the motor, and install screws in the reverse order (that part sucks) then perform calibration again and youre good to go!

The black rubber tubes you speak of are a cover for the slider to prevent corrosion and dirt intrusion, the pin goes inside of them between the caliper and brake mounting bracket. The head of the bolt holding the caliper on should rest against the caliper. The fact that your brakes are remaining applied sounds like a hydraulic issue if the calipers are new. Did you replace the rubber flexible hoses? Occasionally they will collapse internally and leave fluid pressure on the calipers. Whatever you do, don't drive the truck with serious brake problems.

Well, since you are on this forum I assume you have some Vortec powered V8 in a GM truck, so let's say you have 4 O2 sensors, If you only unplugged 2 the problem may be in the others. Second, the transmission pigggybacks off of the O2 sensor circuit if you have a 99-07 4l60e, so if you have issues there it may be causing the issue. You might try unplugging the tranny to see if the fuse still blows when the ignition is turned on to eliminate a factor, otherwise it is likely a wiring issue.