Delta Tango

Thank you for the intel on this feature. It's too much "stuff" for me to have on a unit as my household policy remains "simpler is better". Interesting will be the longevity of these suspension air bags in bitter cold temps or long periods of dormancy/storage situations?

Just curious on opinions regarding the factory installed GM air suspension and towing? Trailer hook up tips welcome!

I have a few ideas to replace that OEM switch if nothing is invented from The General by the summer! I might buy that "jobber" plastic housing I mentioned earlier and just start "play fitting" with a few weather proof water-tight small toggle switches out there. Looks like it's tight fitting in there where that housing sits?

Thanx for the intel. I've been to Turin, and it is really an automotive engineering capital!

This 3.0 liter diesel is an Opel engine out of Germany, not Japanese like the larger Duramax marketed diesels. For your FYI.

Up in western Canada we have to deal with rains, snow, salt (on the roads), moisture, massive temperature changes and guys like me.....who wash their ride at least 3 times a week to try to keep things spiffy! Plenty of contaminates are experienced here in Canada where engineers who design NORTH AMERICAN vehicles are familiar with and yes, this switch failing is a complete surprise to me.

Anybody who follows Detroit Diesel products closely will find this way smaller 3.0 liter engine is still a basic same design as the DD13/DD15 series. Thinking from Germany, can't get over the shape of the cylinder head, over head cam design even pump locations are very much the same.

Watched a You Tube video today with a talented/comical tech tear down a 3.0 liter Duramax with 146,000 miles on it. It indeed had packed it in and the carnage was not evident till the head was lifted. The outcome was an engine starved for oil. Tensioners for the overhead cam chains did not work with little to no oil pressure. Things internally went into a tail spin from there I assume? What was impressive was the rubber/kevlar oil pump drive belt and it's condition after 146,000 miles! Who knew....

"Duct" tape did OK except at freeway speed. Therefore "duct" tape has been cancelled. i removed the inner tailgate panel and disconnected the bogus switches' connector within the tailgate. Not a difficult job to isolate. A quick call to my local GM dealer parts concluded no release date yet for the upgraded switch. Put the panel back on the tail gate. Back to the freeway, without "duct" tape. Party on.

Chances are I'm going to have to duck tape this tailgate shut? Good times.....

Hopefully that up-graded tail gate switch is soon to be released!? Now when I approach the truck with fob, that tailgate latch locks and unlocks like mad! No doubt the next issue will be a tail gate lock system mechanical failure due to being worn out!

My 2021 is. No help if no part……

My 2021 tailgate power switch within the rear "handle" has indeed failed. No opening of tailgate except by dash switch or remote now. Separate actual trips to two GM dealer's parts counters has found no replacement electric tail gate switch available and zero NOS switches available any where in Canada. Inquiring minds not giving up, a call to a "jobber" parts outlet concludes the black plastic handle/housing is available for $70 but no electrical giblets are sold through them, including any kind of electrical latch switch.

Took the base unit for a test drive today. Incredible is the ride and really, the 3.0 is indeed a quiet runner. On the way back I got my sales guy to drive and I sat in the back. As crazy as it may be, I said a couple of times "no wonder the cops like these things". There's nothing wrong with "base", if one is into that.

So I'm showing interest in a 2024 "LS" Tahoe. While it is equipped with a trailer towing receiver and 7 pin lighting/control plug, the unit does not have the optional trailering "max" package. Therefore it does not sport the factory installed integrated on-dash trailering controls. I've had great luck with the aftermarket "Tekonsha" line of aftermarket trailer towing control devises. To use something like "P3" dash mounted controller, past positive experience on older (2014 and up) GM pick up truck line has found the need for the GM supplied adapter harness P/N 23184088. Anybody out there have intel on this aftermarket configuration on the Tahoe line, and particularly the 2024 model year?

You see I got a problem just thinking about a rubber belt that operates in an engine oil splash environment. I worked on Detroit Diesels for 15 years and beyond. When Benz took them over I saw them do some crazy changes.....but never a rubber belt, an important one, run where there's engine oil splash!

Thank you for these updates (and snappy fashion hints...LOL)!

I guess you rely on the dealer for service still on your tahoe, it's a really new unit? Plus did you ever change the fuel filter yourself on your 2021 LM2? Any issues there?

And what about engine oil? 0W20 Dexos "D" available for aftermarket or big box stores and affordable prices. Or is a dealer item?

So surly those out there with the 3.0 liter Duramax is happy with the fuel mileage, however what about thoughts of the rubber drive belt for the engine oil pump? Got ya scared? Is it still the LM2 or the upgraded LZ0? I don't have access to a built sheet yet. Still tire kicking!

As long as The General doesn't stop building base units! You know, for rental car companies, for fleet use and for cheap guys like me!

i went thru this whole mess way back in 2014 with a brand new Z71 Sierra. The sales guy said "just buy the in-dash GM controller and you will have integrated trailer brakes". NO! There was even a separate ECU needed. I had the bracket, but not the ECU. My only recourse at the time was to buy an under dash Techonsha P3 controller and a GM harness P/N: 23184088. A long time has passed and I'm not sure if The General builds 'em where they can accommodate this type of set up anymore? But I can tell you that if the factory installed integrated trailer braking feature ever screws up, you possibly will have a vehicle down situation? Using the P3 controller and if it screwed up, the biggest problem would be to figure out which garbage can to throw it into. One just needs to buy another controller (after troubleshooting why it screwed up in the first place) and snap it back into the under dash bracket. At least you won't need to get to rely on a dealer for all of that!?

While I'm not sure how things are configured these days for after market brake controllers and their installation but I bought (new at the time) 2014 Sierra and it was a trailer towing equipped unit but not H.D.? Therefore I bought the proven Tekonsha P3 under dash controller and also had to buy the GM P/N 23184088 harness. It easily plugged between said controller and an inner firewall mounted "J" box. The box was mounted similar in place to where an old school fuse box would be.

For various reasons in the last few years (since 2015 in my World) road testing is taken with a grain of salt at some repair businesses: -"our technicians are so good we don't need to road test their projects." -"we stand behind our work and if there's a problem arise, the customer can always bring the unit back". (*)Time and time again! -"that was a 20 minute repair on the cooling system. It will be fine, no need to bring it up to temperature." -"we've got projects backed right up. There's no time for a road test." -"are you kidding, that's an extra half an hour! It's not worth it." -"that's the third time a customer has come in and complained about cigarette odors and his radio is on the wrong channel." -"the foreman is the only one allowed to road test and he's away today." I'LL FIX IT MYSELF, AND DRIVE IT MYSELF!