Silverado-Hareek

^He's saying you don't need hose clamps for the hose going to the nozzles on the engine because it's under vaccuum and not under pressure? I don't get it. The original hose had those press-lock fittings to hold it on so why can this hose just simply be slid over the nozzles at the valley cover and the intake manifold? I may not be installing those clips tomorrow if it's not necessary.

RX posted an install video for the 5.3L engine a few days ago. I'm watching it now. Should help some guys out there that haven't installed theirs yet.

I haven't been following this entire thread but I have recently started driving around town in M5 to keep it in V8. The truck feels MUCH better now. I may consider getting the Range AFM delete device if I can find the funds. I dont' want to tune the truck while it's under warranty. But I'm keeping it in M5 at all times unless I'm on the interstate.

Yeah I'll update you guys. The only thing I expect to be a pain is getting the clips back on the engine nozzles because I struggled to get them off originally but my brother-in-law ended up doing it. They're a pain to press open in such tight quarters. Hopefully I'm not a sissy tomorrow and can get them on. I will probably hose clamp the catch can hose to the clips to anchor it securely like I did on the hose barbs on the catch can....probably overkill but peace of mind for sure.

Yeah I might be going this route. If you read a few posts back, I bought a replacement PCV hose so I could cut the clips out of it to secure my catch can hoses to the engine better than hose clamps on the smooth nozzles and still keep my factory hose in case I ever need to return it to stock. I hope to do this work tomorrow evening in my parents garage (it's cold as hell here!). While I'm doing that, I will explore alternate drain hose routes. If I don't find anything i'm taking it out completely. My driveway looks awful and I just got it sealed a few months ago.

Yeah this might be plan B. I was worried about residual oil dripping in the engine bay but if there's no drain tube, there really should be no residual oil after closing the ball valve and wiping the threaded opening with a paper towel or something.

Where did you guys run your drain tube for the RX can? I thought I had mine in a good spot but it splattered and got all over my driveway draining it today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You rock! Thanks man. EDIT: Just called in the order to the dealer. The part should be in tomorrow. I will try to install the clips this weekend. That will give me more peace of mind. FYI I think that part number you gave me is for the 6.2L. I have a 5.3. No big deal I told the guy over the phone I needed the "PCV Tube." He said there's a dirty tube and then 2 clean side tubes and I told him the dirty one and he confirmed that it attaches below the throttle body to be sure. I will report back tomorrow with the part # for the 5.3 for those interested. Thanks again for your help.

Do you know what this hose is called? I'm thinking of picking one up to get the clips off of it and use the clips to secure the hoses to the engine rather than the hose clamps. Maybe it's me being paranoid but I like the idea of the clip holding it on there rather than the hose clamp pinching the hose on the smooth nozzle. I'm worried it may work itself loose over time.

This will be tough to compare as people live in different areas of the country and weather affects humidity in your system. Also the type of fuel used, driving habits, etc. all can play a role in engine performance. The only way to truly measure this is for someone to install and try different cans on the same truck and drive it in similar weather conditions with the same driving habits. There is a link somewhere in this thread that takes you to an article that compares a lot of the brand name cans. The testers created a set-up to measure the amount of oil being caught in different brand cans and found the RX can to be the most effective of the bunch, although they said the other cans worked great and would recommend them as well.

My guess is because DI engines are so new to the general population that valve cleaning services are being offered as a solution to a problem rather than a maintenance item. The public simply isn't aware yet. Once more people realize they're getting scammed on repairs with DI engines, either catch cans will come stock or valve cleaning will be a maintenance item listed in the manual. I'd also guess manufacturers have figured out how to slow the problem enough that they can escape the warranty period before noticeable problems arise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow that is awful! I thought I had "the flex" but mine doesn't flex that much. About 1/8-1/4" at most. You definitely need to bring that to the dealer's attention ASAP that is completely unacceptable. The fact that mine doesn't flex as much leads me to believe it may be an assembly issue possibly and it could be fixed somehow? I don't have adjustable pedals. Build date 9/2013. Rest of my vehicle specs under my avatar.

I was wondering the opposite....the longer you wait the more fluid builds up and settles the can down. So emptying it would make it worse not better. I don't know I'll keep an eye on mine and see how it changes. Just a thought as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is awesome man thanks for sharing! I will probably try this if the vibration gets annoying enough that I can't stand it anymore. All and all though the truck is running great with the can. I'm using "trip b" on my DIC to monitor the miles on the can so I know when to drain it. I'm at about 375 now and plan to drain at 500 for an initial reading. I should be able to expand the drain intervals out from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Yeah it's a 5.3. Removing the airbox and tube between the throttle body and filter box is the way to go for sure. There's really no other way to access the crankcase nozzle. I didn't get a picture of the drain tube from the can but I ran it down into the wheel well area of the driver side front tire so any residual oil in the tube that doesn't get captured in a drain pan will just drip on the ground and not in the engine bay. It's raining today but I'll try to take some more pictures of this soon and post them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're welcome good luck with the install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Photo post attempt #1 EDIT: Sweet it worked. Here are the best photos I took during the install. You can see how I used a hose clamp to connect the hose under the throttle body. I did the same thing at the other connection on the top side of the engine.

Thanks will get them posted shortly.

I have some pics but I'm not quote sure how to post them. Can anyone help with that please?

It's a pain to get off. I couldn't do it but my brother in law managed to get it off. You need hose clamps to hold the new hose back on. The RX install video fails to address this. If you don't care about preserving the factory hose you could probably cut it and reuse the snap lock fittings but I wanted to be able to return it to stock if I needed to so I used hose clamps to hold the new hose in place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And we're saying your truck will be MORE fine with a catch can, you'll have reduced maintenance costs, and you'll have better performance. Neither of us are technically wrong. We're choosing to spend some money to make things better. Do what you like but to say a catch can won't reduce buildup on the valves is completely false. How much is debatable as there aren't many before and after studies done. But I will be glad to report my findinings over the next couple years. I put a catch can on around 12k miles. I plan to get my mechanic to bore scope my valves at 15k, do a BG induction service, then bore scope them again to see how clean they got. At 30k miles I will bore scope the engine again to see if there's less buildup than at 15k and exactly how much is there at 30k. That will show how much the catch can is helping. If it's not helping I'll gladly admit it. But at this point, logically, it makes sense and there's enough supporting information out there to warrant the $200 investment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This. You phrased it much better than me. Also the reason it's $800 to clean your Audi flying tomatoes is because the Audi is probably the worst DI engine on the market for carbon buildup on the valves and you're paying a ton in labor to break the engine down to clean it mechanically. Modern chemical cleaning methods do pretty much the same job for a fraction of the cost. It cost $160 to do the BG induction service on my wife's Hyundai. I'm guessing it will be closer to $200 on these trucks because of more supplies needed for the larger engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Um sticking valves? Valves not closing properly because of the buildup? Blown engines over time? It's not a "band aid" a band aid is half assed repair. The catch can is simply an upgrade to reduce buildup on your valves. You need to do some more research on this issue my friend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Carbon build up on your valves is a big deal and will cause problems with your engine. Oil catch cans will reduce that build up and prolong engine life. Diesel engines have had catch cans for years for this very reason. The only reason catch cans aren't stock on these cars and trucks is because the problem won't manifest as fast on a gas engine (think power train warranty) than on a Diesel engine and manufacturers are looking to save money on the initial manufacturing cost and make money off of you bringing it in for cleaning services over the life of the vehicle. Also, yes cleaning agents do work and mechanical cleaning methods are becoming a thing of the past with proper routing cleaning maintenance. Google BG induction service and see the results for yourself. Yes cleaning Is becoming a cost of ownership and routine maintenance item for DI engines but again, an oil catch can will dramatically reduce the build up on your valves and prolong engine life. There is a ton of research out there to support this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have adjustable pedals and I've always felt the gas pedal is too far back from the brake pedal which makes finding a comfortable seat distance a little difficult. I wish they were more lined up. I'm not sure if it's possible to bring the gas pedal forward some maybe? I certainly don't want to mess with the brake as I really enjoy being able to stop the vehicle!