Well here I am almost 2 years later at 81,000 miles. AC went out over the winter sometime....I discovered it when I tried to use it on a warm day. Just bit the bullet this week and got it fixed. $900 at the dealer to replace the condenser with the foil tape in the corner. My understanding, after searching the new condenser part number, is this unit is what is used in the newer trucks, so GM seems to be doubling down on this part. That gives me a little confidence that they have the issue sorted out. I did not complain to the dealer though like I described above, mainly because I went to a different dealer that I liked better than the one I bought the truck from. I didn't think it was fair to blast them for it when they didn't even sell me the truck. We'll see how it goes....
Add me to the list of folks with a bad condenser. Truck is a 2014 with 81,000 miles. It's at the dealer now and will be $900 to replace the condenser. Does anyone know if the replacement unit is some kind of updated part that won't have this leak issue again? I'm finding all kinds of information on the web talking about a support bracket and an updated hose from the condenser that caused the leak in the first place and I'm not really clear on what's going on. The service rep at the dealer is clueless.
At the time the dealer had it on hand. Although I have to admit looking back over this post I wrote, I've changed my mind. I've been using full synthetic, either AC Delco or Mobil 1, for basically since around the time I wrote this and I think full synthetic is just fine from a performance standpoint. I may have either had a weird first experience or possibly it was the placebo effect so to speak. Product research implies full synthetic is better better for the engine anyway. Mobil 1 is great but it's expensive. Currently, my dealer offers an 8 QT full synthetic AC Delco 0W-20 oil change and tire rotation for $69. Hard to beat that price. My updated recommendation is to go with full synthetic oil given the high degree of engineering in these engines, tight tolerances, AFM, etc.
The fuse pull cuts the power to the transmission related components only whereas disconnecting the battery cuts the power to the entire truck. Both accomplish the same thing with regards to the transmission but disconnecting the battery would also reset all of your radio settings, presets, etc. as far as what trucks get decent gas mileage, I always say if you’re interested in saving gas, don’t buy a truck. Fuel savings shouldn’t be your primary goal with a truck. With that being said, the Ram Ecodiesel is probably the most fuel efficient and least annoying truck to drive to achieve the fuel savings. good luck. I’ve already decided if my truck doesn’t make it to at least 150,000 miles without any major engine or transmission repairs, I’m going straight to Toyota and never looking back. I’m already on my second Silverado in 12 years and did not have good luck with my first one.
Yes there is a way to put it back into learn mode. Pull the following fuses from your engine bay fuse box for 30 minutes, then put them back in: 34, 39, 43, 51 Fair Warning: I've done this a few times and the truck always drives great immediately after doing the fuse pull for a couple of thousand miles and then it goes to s**t again. These adaptive transmissions are just awful and there is no cure other than to maybe getting a tune (not sure if that works on the adaptive learning function or not) or buy a different brand truck. Good luck.
This pump failure is the most common problem I've heard about on these trucks. A coworker is having pump/pressure issues on his 2014 and another coworker had their pump fail on their 2016 Tahoe at 120,000 miles and they needed a new transmission. Very disheartening to read how common this is. of course all the Toyota owners around me are driving 200k+ miles on their original transmissions
My opinion is that the $700 AFM delete kit is not necessary. Consider this: Corvettes are sold with the ability for the driver to turn AFM on and off on their own, plus if you put your truck in M5, there is no AFM. I don't think simply tuning out the AFM or using a Range device will harm anything considering GM already gives you the ability to not have to use V4 mode on the Corvette and anything less than M6 on the trucks. Blackbear has also been turning off AFM with a tune for years and I don't read about any issues from that. They've been doing it since AFM was first introduced in 2007.
Doesn't really seem worth it to me deal with the hassle of trying to rotate tires without a lift and impact driver, disposing of old oil, getting dirty, all to save $10. I have a dealer near my office. I can drop it off on the way to work, catch a shuttle from the dealer to the office, and then catch a shuttle back or get a ride from a coworker and I didn't spend hardly any time/effort having to mess with it. My time is worth way more than $10. I would say unless your a DIYer that likes to do as much vehicle maintenance yourself as possible, why bother with just doing oil changes/tire rotations yourself and still take the vehicle in for everything else? EDIT: I will add to do what works for you best for you, and that may not be what's best for others and vice versa. Like in my case, I have circumstances that tip the scale in favor of taking it to the dealer. If you live far from a dealer than it probably makes more economic sense to do the routine maintenance like oil changes yourself and take it to the dealer for the bigger things. Regardless, if you do it yourself, at least save your receipts for supplies and document your service in case a warranty item pops up, you have a record of it.
All you need is a tuner that will turn off the AFM. You don't need any aftermarket parts, it's simply a software issue. BlackBear can do this with one of their custom tunes or you can just buy something like a Diablo tuner for $300 and turn it off yourself.
One of the first things I noticed with my Bilsteins is how dramatically improved driving over speed-bumps became. You have to try this when you're testing them out. The truck is unfazed by them it's amazing
Oh agreed I actually hate the way the Tundra looks. I still think GM puts out the best looking truck on the road by a mile. If I went with Toyota, I'd either need the Tundra to look better or I'd go with a Tacoma. Although I have to say the 2019 Silverado looks basically like a Tundra now unfortunately. The Sierra is the better looking of the GM twins for 2019+.
You're good man. We agree severe driving conditions are another issue. But for normal driving, mixed highway and city use, etc., these brakes should last a good while.
My dad has always been a loyal GM guy. His last GM purchase was a 2004 suburban which he still has and it runs excellent. I'm like you though every GM vehicle I've own has had issues. My 2007 had transmission work done at 80,000 miles and the engine had the oil consumption issue pop up at around 90,000 miles which would've ultimately lead to an engine replacement on my dime so I unloaded it and bought the current 2014 that I have. If I get another 5 years out of it and make it to around 140k-150k miles with no transmission work or major engine repairs, I may go ahead and get another GM at that point. We'll see...
Agreed I'm thinking these guys are either riding the brakes or their calipers are sticking and the pads are making contact while driving and wearing down prematurely. I've spoken to multiple mechanics about this and these brakes absolutely should last close to 100,000 miles. If they don't and you aren't driving in severe stop and go traffic or towing a lot, than there's something wrong that needs to be corrected.
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