Silverado-Hareek started following Crew cab vs double cab, 2015 Silverado LT Speaker Feedback / Whine, Factory "Rancho" Tenneco Shocks Love 'Em or Hate 'Em/Upgraded and and 4 others
Might sound silly but is your 4WD engaged on either Auto or HI? These trucks make a faint whining noise when anything other than 2HI is engaged. It's some kind of electrical problem that I haven't seen resolved anywhere yet.
Correct the Bilstein 4600's and 5100's are basically an "all around" shock that's built for better control in standard driving conditions, better off road performance for general off roading and 4 wheel driving, and better towing performance. It really doesn't excel in a specific area of use more than the other. It's an upgrade to your stock Tenneco's/Rancho's so essentially how you would use your stock truck is how you should still use it with these Bilsteins, but with an upgraded performance in these all-around areas of use. These shocks aren't built for say taking your truck off of jumps 20' into the air. The 5100's are good for up to a 1" rear lift and they will level your front end. Anything more than that and you should consider other equipment. But these are the best shocks you can buy in my opinion for a stock truck or a leveled truck that won't be abused too terribly much outside of what we'll call "normal" truck usage.
Agreed on all points. In fact I ran over a speed bump today with my Bilsteins going about 15-20 mph and barely felt it. Made me laugh actually because with the old Ranchos I would've been tossed around gotten whiplash doing the same thing. Good suspension can't fully be explained. You just have to feel it to know it and if you're new to upgraded suspension, really your only option is to take a bunch of opinions from other people and roll the dice on one of them. I can tell you with 100% certainty that you will not hate Bilstein 4600's or 5100's. That doesn't mean they're better than everything else out there and that's the only shock you should ever buy. I'm just saying those are the only upgraded shocks I've ever personally used and for me, they're incredible. And I think you'll find a lot of people will say the same thing about the same model shocks. That's why I ultimately decided to use them because of how many people were endorsing them. So they're a safe bet in my opinion that you can't really go wrong with.
In fairness, I'll admit I was more motivated by looks. In 2014 the Z71 was the only truck besides the work truck that didn't have the overly chromed out front end. It was a way to get the black grill insert. So you're right sometimes its the look that's important. I don't find the hill descent control to be a very useful feature, and you should be able to get the 3.42 rear end in any trim level. Most trucks I looked at had it standard. But I'm getting off topic. The point is the factory Rancho's are garbage. Even though they're also made by Tenneco, I find the standard black shocks to last a little longer than the Ranchos and perform better over time.
This is why I likely won't pay for the Z71 package again. It's pretty worthless for the $3,000 premium. You're better off getting a standard 4x4 and then spending your money on some aftermarket parts which you'll ultimately have to do anyway with the Z71. Back in the 90's they actually built a decent off road truck with the Z71 package (had bilstein shocks and metal skid plates!). Nowadays it's just a status symbol and unfortunately I learned that the hard way.
When my Ranchos were brand new, they did ok off road. But these shocks wear out very quickly. I'm certain mine were shot around 30,000 miles but I waited until I needed new tires at 60,000 to replace them. I have Bilstein 5100's now and they're amazing to say the least. Whether driving off road or going over speed bumps and rough city streets in my area, they just eat up whatever they come across. One of my favorite things to do is drive over speed bumps without slowing down much and you barely feel the bumps. It's amazing...like they aren't even there. I don't remember the Rancho's handling things that well when they were new but I do recall thinking they were decent shocks when I first got my truck. Once they were shot the truck felt like a boat on a stormy sea going over bumps.
Somewhere on this forum, someone said that 275/70/18's would fit a stock height truck and not have rubbing issues. I put that size on my truck, but I did level the front end to make sure there weren't any issues. However, I'm pretty sure they would've fit fine though without the level and I'm certain the size you want to install will fit without issue at all.
Supposedly, the condenser has already been redesigned on the later model K2's. The 2019 likely utilizes the lessons learned from the K2 trucks. Still, I personally wouldn't buy a 2019. After owning a first year model run 2007 and 2014, I've learned that you really should give a new model a few years to work out all of the bugs. Reap the benefits of the early adopters.
My voltage fluctuates too below 14 and past 14. I'm fairly certain it always stays within the acceptable range that's noted on the gauge so I don't ever worry about it. The manual talks about the voltage fluctuating as well and it being normal to do so.
A pan drop fluid change is fine at that mileage, even without prior service. It's the full transmission flush you have to worry about. Even so, those have become less of a concern with modern flushing systems. In particular, BG has a good flushing system that utilizes the transmission's own fluid pump to cycle out the old fluid and replace it with new. The best way to describe the process is it's like a blood transfusion. The pump and transmission work as if you were out driving around, except instead of cycling the existing fluid in a loop, the old fluid is pumped out as new fresh fluid is pumped in. The BG machine has a window so you can monitor the color of fluid leaving the transmission. Initially the fluid leaving the transmission is dirty and looks black. As the service process plays out, the color of the fluid in the viewing glass gets progressively lighter until you finally see nothing but fresh new light red color fluid cycling out of the transmission. That's when the process is complete. Since this system utilizes the transmission's own pump, there is no pressurized forcing of fluid through the transmission by outside sources.
If it's the original battery, 4 years old is about right for it to need to be replaced. Every vehicle I've ever had needed a new battery around the 4 year mark, cars or trucks. The testing results are weird though. I would get the battery tested one more time by a different shop to be sure.
I had 60,000 on my GYs before replacing them. I agree I was impressed with how long they lasted but I never felt confident in them from a performance or stability standpoint on the road or for off-road traction. They were average. Good enough to use them but not good enough to recommend buying them.
This was going to be my suggestion as well based on the OP’s notes about noise and mpg’s. I have 33” KO2’s on my truck in load range E and I actually like the way they ride. It’s a little rougher but I would say it rides like a truck. The noise isn’t that bad....you can hear them more than a highway tire for sure but they don’t sound nearly as bad or as loud as say mud terrain tire. But if you don’t go off-road much and mpgs are important, I would check out the Michelin AT3’s. Another option to look at are the firestone destinations. They didn’t have as good of traction as the BFG’s in the snow but they lasted a while on my old truck and we’re good on the highway. Better than the stock Goodyear’s I would say.
I didn't even know these were a thing. Thanks for sharing! Luckily I've never towed anything of any significant weight but I could be in the future based on some life changes. This is very helpful. Also, I didn't know this before either but after doing some further research on towing, apparently those safety chains on trailers are supposed to be crossed in an "X" shape when you hook them up to your hitch. The reason being that they will form a safety net to hold the trailer up off the ground should the hitch fail/come loose. This makes total sense and admittedly, I've never done this before when towing a small utility trailer. Thankfully, I've never needed them.
As if it hasn’t been said enough already, definitely a crew cab. We have a 22 month old and a newborn on the way. Our rear facing infant car seat nearly touches the back of the passenger seat in a crew cab. If we had a double cab instead, the passenger seat would have to slide forward more to fit it. Plus the extra room gives you some distance from your kids kicking the back of the seat. Dont worry about weight and fuel economy....the trucks are nearly identical. This decision should be based purely on room/space.
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