The Zip

jasondenali15 - Maybe based on your input, ".....when the engine is in V4 mode", I can sort of see GM looking at the driveshaft. But GM knew about the V4 mode thats why they attempted a driveshaft fix with 4 Knucks. That didn't work, the attempt may have been the cheaper route. Now with this bulletin, sounds like an issue with the sunroof not mating with the sheet metal. A fix, maybe increase the height of the sunroof glass rear edge. Everyone having this issue, do you have a sunroof? Cause if not, this bulletin won't work for you.

GM - I am not a mechanic, but what portion of Yukon/Tahoe research and development identified that the driveshaft will relieve the pressure folks are experiencing. Did you do any R&D on these vehicles cabin noise and pressure. If so, break-out the stats and get the job done. GM dealerships attempting to fix this issue don't have a clue what's going on. Send them what they need to fix the problem. Customers that purchase these vehicles don't have a 70K tree in the back yard. 4 Knucks - this ia a load of s***. GM advertises a vehicle and warrantees its service, now you folks are having to go through this after buying the vehicle in good faith, totally unacceptable. I don't have my warranty book currently with me, but I did read something a couple of days ago about the GM buy-back program. Break open your warranty booklet and see what it says. But it would make sense if the vehicle is not performing to standards and is becoming a safety issue, that GM versus the dealership should assume responsibility since vehicle assembly was at the factory. I am not experiencing the problem, but Tahoe owners are not off the hook. Again, get familiar with your state lemon laws; some states identify after 3 visits for the same issue over a period of time a vehicle could be identified as a lemon. Some states may identify more or less days. I also read that a vehicle with a safety issue could be identified as a lemon after 1 visit. Get smart on that stuff cause this looks like this is where you're going. All perspective Yukon/Tahoe owners, ensure you test drive your vehicle at varying speeds before you decide to purchase. Inquire if the dealer is up to speed on this issue with the cabin pressure. If not, tell them to go study on the subject because the deal is dependent upon a fix for this issue.

4 Knucks - the more folks chime-in can expedite a GM fix for the issue, the squeaky wheel gets the oil. Include these posts with any correspondence with GM. I am not experiencing the issue with my '15 Tahoe, but based on the previous post by "subedriver", Tahoes' are not exempt. Since I have been driving a Tahoe consistently since '00, when I bought the '15 Tahoe earlier this year, I still owned a '01 and '08 Tahoe. That was three in the driveway so I conducted a pro/con Tahoe comparison. To stay on subject, the '15 Tahoe is head and shoulders above the previous versions with eliminating outside noise, they sealed this puppy up jelly tight. When I compared why, I noticed a few differences like the placement and thickness of weatherstripping, the smaller windows, and the top of the door trim wrapped around the top of the truck versus the previous versions door trim stopped a few inches from the top of the truck. Comparing cabin set-up and noise differences through the years may be an option for GM in figuring this out. Your complaint sounds like cabin pressure, similar to flying in a plane and your ears won't pop. Cabin pressure will definitely cause headaches and ear rumbling. My '15 Tahoe cabin may be venting somehow since I am not experiencing this issue. In contrast, your vehicle is probably not venting. "Fondupot" mentioned venting in his post "I wonder if the cabin vents are causing an issue..." as another possible fix.

4 Knucks - This issue has to be limited to your vehicle 'cause members and visitors to this site with a 2015 GM truck is not experiencing the problem or else there would be more comments. Or, not that many trucks are sold yet. Experiment with your car for over ten days for a buffering issue and the experts came to the conclusion the driveshaft was the problem? R & D history would have told them that days ago if that was the issue. At this point you have to go with it, take it back to the shop if the problem persist after driveshaft replacement. In the meantime, get smart on your state lemon laws, you are not there yet, but keep all communication and require documentation for everything involved with repairing your new vehicle. If your situation reaches your state lemon law requirements, you will need to have documentation to back-up your claim. So start saving everything. GM has a responsibility to make your driving experience pleasurable (page one of your Warranty Booklet "GM is committed to ensuring satisfaction with your new vehicle"), basic bumper-to-bumper doesn't work in all cases. If the vehicle is not up to standards, then GM should buy back the truck and start fresh. Again, you are not there, yet. I recommend electronic communication with corporate to leave a better trail than the 800 #, but here is a contact number per my manual. (1-800-222-1020). www.chevrolet.com was also listed. Remember, "GM is committed to ensuring satisfaction with your new vehicle", if they don't clean the liner to your satisfaction, then have it replaced. Whether a customer is 10K or 70k into a deal, GM has a responsibility to make good on an issue. GM sold your truck on the premise there was no issues and if there is an issue they will fix it within the warranty period. Well, that is also the expectation of the customer. Upon completion of the driveshaft replacement and the problem still exist, contact corporate and demand they stand by their product

4 Knucks - point taken on the extended version. This version (extended) may not have been test driven by you but the GM mechanics at the factory had to discover this issue in R & D. But you make a point, if you say all extended versions you drove are having the issue and I say my Tahoe is not, then maybe the experts need to dig up the R & D on the wheelbase and additional rear cab space, the primary difference between the extended and non extended versions. GM is carrying-on like they don't know the issue, evident by them having your vehicle for ten days and performing a quiet disassembly of your 70K new car you bought in good faith. Tell the local guys or the GM representatives to quit experimenting and call the the factory and speak to the person in charge of sound dampening, there has to be research. Are there any Yukon or Escalade (as apposed to XL) owners experiencing this or according to 4 Knucks, there has to be some XL owners out there. Drive at between 30-45 then chime in. These type of forums, used correctly, keep customers informed.

4 knucks - I am guessing these are some intelligent GM folks looking at your 70k truck the dealer has been experimenting with for ten days. But if the drivetran is the issue, why don't these guys apply some smarts and look at the Tahoe. I say this not because the Tahoe is better, but there is not a big difference in Yukon/Tahoe drivetrains. Those two vehicles have similar torque and is about even in transmitting their respective horsepower to the wheels. Other than some interior features and exterior lighting and grill, these trucks are interchangeable. My point being, tell these guys to close the door and look at some Tahoe's to see what's working. This may help them to find out what's not working in your Yukon. I don't experience this problem at any speed in the '15 Tahoe.

la - I have not experienced movement of or inside the seat. I believe all the Tahoe version seats are equal with the exception being a few more bells and whistles and leather trim. Use all the seat buttons (front/back/up/down/lumbar/heated back/heated bottom) to eliminate if one of the components doesn't work. You may can isolate the culprit versus the whole seat. We've all heard the couldn't duplicate response, if the above paragraph doesn't isolate the problem then the next time it happens pay attention to your speed and driving scenario (going over a bump, turning a corner, braking hard, etc), then provide that to a advisor for them to attempt to duplicate the seat's reaction. If the above two paragraphs still result in a couldn't duplicate response, then demand a new seat. Movement inside the seat could be considered a safety issue and will only get worse if not addressed; something's loose or broken