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  1. That's exactly what I did but, with all the diagrams out there, I thought I would get a quick "good" answer from one of you great folks here. I was in a hurry this morning and was looking for a quick real world answer. Thanks..... Ray
  2. That's it..... Thanks for your help. I also received another diagram from the following I'd like to share. Thanks for the help. http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/towing-hauling/943410-needed-7-blade-trailer-connector-wiring-diagram.html
  3. Hi, I have a 2018 GMC Denali and would like to know if anyone has a 7 blade trailer connector wiring diagram. I'm making a 2' extension of a 7 blade male to a 7 blade female connector. Thanks, Ray
  4. Was at the dealer for a couple hours...... they re-adjusted what they called a fresh air pipe approx. 1/4" but, didn't help. This aluminum pipe is about 3" in diameter on the right side facing the engine. They believe that it transferred vibration from the engine to the firewall........ In other words it's anybody's guess. I did get into a new one on the lot and it felt the same. You sure can feel a lot of engine vibration just sitting at idle......... my truck and the new one on the lot. Service manager stated that he would make some contacts up the GM chain. I've got to believe that most new owners are sharing this problem as I am. For now....... got to live with it.
  5. Thanks for the reply......... I totally agree, could be any one of those and/or more. I don't know how they will determine the problem. I have it in the dealers service dept. as I speak. We'll see.......... I'll keep everyone here with any answers that they may give. Thanks again, Ray
  6. Hi, I have a "very slight" vibration that can be felt through the steering wheel....... even at idle. First I thought it might be the tires slightly off balance but, feeling it sitting/idling eliminates that idea. It's constant at all speeds and when on the highway my fingers get tingly due to it. Something is transferring this but, I can't imagine what. It's been this way since I purchased it and thought it would go away after I put some break in miles on it. I just turned 2000 miles on it today therefore, I will be contacting the dealer tomorrow. Keep in mind, this is not a shake or vibration in the drive train....... that all feels great. Any idea's what's causing this? Thanks, Ray
  7. OK........ Took the truck for a drive on the E-way to clean up the DPF. Message disappeared after 26 miles. I also got back my normal DIC. I also checked the hours and idle time in the DIC when I got home which stated the following; Engine Hours: 6.2 Idle Hours: 2.7 I now have a grand total of 134 miles on the truck. I believe the idling which was just shy of 1/2 the engine hours along with short runs was the problem. Thanks goes out to all of you for setting me straight on the PDF. Ray
  8. Thanks for the replies...... It appears that my concerns are not really something to be worried about since my 2015 was the same. I purchased the 2015 new and never had a DPF message. Having the 2018 for only a couple days with the DPF message coming on with only 90 miles on the odometer concerned me. Looking this up in the manual which stated self cleaning occurs approx. every tank of fuel surprised me to say the least. This is all new to me in which I was obviously oblivious to. I'm probably just over reacting and need drive as I normally do. Thank's to those of you that helped explain the DPF. Ray
  9. Didn't have this on my 2012 and 2015 Duramax ........ If I did, I sure didn't ever see any messages and/or warnings. Thanks for the reply. Ray
  10. Didn't say things were made up...... I'm saying this is ridicules I.M.O. I was shocked to see this message come up on my two day old truck with 90 miles on it. This is my 3'rd Duramax, had a 2012 and traded up from my 2015. Thanks for the reply...... Ray You really don't want me to reply.........
  11. I just purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali w/ Duramax. As I was going through the Duramax Diesel Owners Manual my jaw dropped...... Please, someone tell me I'm wrong..... Self cleaning of this DPF happens with "approximately" once per tank of fuel? Drive for at least 30 minutes above 30mph? What the hell............ and if I don't all hell breaks out according to the Caution's and Warning's? I don't live/work on the expressway and certainly don't want to drive for at least 30 minutes just to clean this EPA B.S. If I'm wrong about this, PLEASE..... PLEASE correct me.
  12. 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Duramax Installed my GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System this past Monday. Spent about 1 1/2 hours between installing and taking pic's. Before I dive into my install with tips and pic's.......... I thank all of you for your help, advice and pic's for installing the HID's! For those of you wondering if you can do this install..... Well, I'm no mechanic by any means..... all you need is a little common sense along with a couple tools. If you meet these demanding requirements then I say "Go for it!" You'll be happy that you did. I went with the following 4300k 35w HID kit which made a night and day difference.GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc This is how our trucks should have came from the factory. The entire install went great like you have explained. For those of you getting ready to dive in, the pic's and comments are given in the same order as I installed them. Pros: Seems to be a high quality kit. (Will know in time) Installation - Simple plug and play. TRS - Extremely helpful staff...... just give them a call if needed. Cons: Only one..... Harnesses could have been longer for more/better install options. The passenger side suffers the most. With that being said, I understand there are extensions available. Step 1: Pre-test kit (Not necessary, but may save you time) a) Remove headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise) on the drivers side. b) Unplug halogen bulb and remove. c) Lay out and plug in your HID kit across the top of your radiator cover. Plug in your drivers side HID bulb into the trucks bulb harness. With this kit there is one positive and three negative cables. Temporarily connect them to your battery accordingly. Test your lights with and without the engine running. In addition, check all other lights for proper working order. If all is working properly and your relay isn't buzzing and your lights aren't flickering you're good to dive in. If not, recheck all your connections. Step 2: As a pre-caution I did the following; a) Remove kit wiring and leave battery cables off your drivers side battery. b) Remove negative battery post on passenger side. Dive.... Dive....... Step 3: Passenger side - Sensors and intake air tube. a) Loosen intake air tube clamp. b) Remove both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor plugs. As smart as I like to think I am... LOL...... I had a little trouble removing these two sensor plugs. I didn't realize that once you pull out the tab (see red one in pic.) you have to press down on the tab in the center and pull at the same time. Once you do that, it unplugs smooth as butter. I told you, I'm no mechanic...... Step 4: Airbox removal; This can be done by either removing whole or by removing the cover and filter first. I ended up removing the cover and filter when re-installing, I'll explain why later. a) Lift up by giving it a tug due to it's rubber grommets in the base holding it in. b) Twist off of the air tube once loose and remove. Step 5: Remove Radiator Cover (Optional) Remove for running/hiding your harness across to the passenger side. Also needed if you use the fender support brackets for grounds as I did. There are 12 push pins in all that need to be pulled. If you take your time, you can do this within a minute or so....LOL Step 6: Remove passenger side headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise) There is a soft plastic protection cover over the cap. I removed the two upper side push pins and folded the cover down out of the way for easier installation. These pins came out a little hard, therefore I replaced them with similar type push pins that are used for the radiator cover. "This will make it easier down the road if I have to change the bulb." A one inch hole needs to be drilled in the center of each cap for the bulb harness and grommet, therefore take both caps to a machine shop for drilling.....LOL Actually, I started out with a 7/8" hole, but it was too small to pass the harness plug through. A 1" hole worked out perfect for both the plug and grommet. I used a step bit which worked flawlessly without side stepping. All this and I even held it in my hand while doing so..... Step 7: Drivers side bulb harness; a) Remove the end clip from the flat harness plug. This makes it easier for the plug to pass through the cap. b) Pass through from the back side of the cap and replace clip. c) Install grommet making sure it's smooth all the way around both sides of cap. Grommet sealed perfectly with no silicone Step 8: Bulb installation; This is another thing most of you taught me. "Make sure it's seated properly." If not seated, your light will not be disbursed properly. Meaning, improper alignment and more than likely less light. This is common sense, but the metal on the housing is thin making it "very easy" to miss a tab; Thin metal bulb tabs; Bulb base not seated properly; Bulb base seated properly; Step 9: :snapp Plug it in man!! Put the cap on.... Step 10: Connecting the harnesses; Since we're still hanging out on the drivers side, we might as well start plugging in the ballast, amp igniter, relay, capacitor link or can-bus (if it's not already). At this point I pretty much ripped off the way "smoked you" installed his kit..... don't tell him, please....... :friends Step 11: Grounding points; I grounded the drivers side ballast along with the capacitor link to the fender support bracket. Be sure to file/sand all sides for making a good contact. I also grounded the passenger side ballast in the same manner. Step 12: Ballast, Amp Igniter, Relay and Capacitor Link placement. Ballast attached to battery negative post and Amp Igniter attached with commercial grade Velcro. ** You can attach the ballast and/or the amp igniter to the fender wall if desired. Step 13: Positive battery cable and harness run for passenger side; a) Run the positive cable near the positive post on the battery. "Do not connect at this time." b) As for the harness leading to the passenger side; I removed the windshield solvent tank bolt and slipped the cable down behind it. I then ran up and across the length of the orange trucks cable using cable ties. Re-install the bolt. Step 14: Bulb Installation Passenger Side - Follow steps 7 through 9; **Considerations before following steps 7 through 9; The flat power connector is not used on the passenger side, therefore you can either; a) Let it hang unplugged. b) Cut and eliminate it from the harness all together. c) My Method: Plug it into the existing trucks plug that was used for the halogen bulb. Take the other end and either shrink tube it or tape/tie it off. I did this for a couple reasons..... a)I didn't want to just let the plug dangle near the trucks power plug. b) Plugging it in protects the trucks power plug. **It's not a big deal in any of the above choices. It's just something I did since I had the shrink tube. Step 16: Amp igniter installation; Due to the harness not being long enough, you don't have much of a choice of placement. When you tie off the amp igniter do so as shown (on top of the trucks existing harness). If you tie it off on the side of the trucks harness, the airbox won't seat properly. Step 17: Ballast installation; The ballast is secured by a self tapping bolt through a raised type washer that's pressed on the rail support. Be sure to use a self tapping bolt that is only "slightly" bigger than the hole in the washer. If not, you may break this washer loose causing it to spin..... Like I did :newly I installed the ballast "before" I reinstalled the airbox. The airbox went in, but it was a little tight getting past the ballast while putting it into position. With that being said, it wasn't a real struggle. Once the airbox is in place, there's only about 3/8" gap between it and the ballast. You have a couple choices; a) You can install the ballast first. b) Do not install the ballast, but run its harness to the ballast location and tie it off temporally into position so it doesn't fall down during airbox installation (Step 18). **If you do this, make sure you pre-install the self tapping screw that's used, then remove it. There isn't any room for a drill to run the screw once the airbox is in place. I would suggest mounting the ballast "after" installing the airbox. Step 18: Airbox, filter, cover and air intake tube installation; a) As shown below, there are three plastic posts with one of them being larger. Due to the larger post having thread type ridges, I found it easier to install by lining up the post (by feel, blindly) at the beginning of the slot. Once aligned, push down and slide the box into position. Now you can blindly feel one of the plastic posts and line it up with its grommet. Once aligned. simply press box into place. Note:This isn't as hard as it may sound.....This is really a simple process. b) Install filter. c) Work cover into position while at the same time connecting the air intake tube. Install the two cover screws. d) Tighten clamp on air intake tube. Step 19: Install both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor harness plugs. Step 20: Install radiator cover. Step 21: Power a) Install the trucks positive battery cable along with your HID kit positive cable. b) Install the negative cables on each battery. Step 22: Check headlight adjustment; Each headlight can be adjusted independently up/down through an access hole through the radiator cover. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver. I hope this helped you as much as everyone else here has for me. Ahhh..... Now you can enjoy driving at night again. Ray
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