Ray@Paula

Thanks for the input.

Thank You Jon, Got the link! Awesome job & write up!! I can definitely see that it was well worth the work along with price. It's nice to know that having an unwanted snowplow package can be dealed with if needed. I may have to go this route as well if I don't order my truck. Glad it all worked out with your camper... Nothing worse than a harsh ride traveling cross country. This thread is a keeper!! Tganks again. Ray

Thank You Jon, Awesome job & write up!! I can definitely see that it was well worth the work along with price. It's nice to know that having an unwanted snowplow package can be dealed with if needed. Glad it all worked out with your camper... Nothing worse than a harsh ride traveling cross country. This thread is a keeper!! Tganks again. Ray

Bummer... I clicked all over in your old post.... nothing. Still don't see the link. Sounds like you did the right thing doing the install yourself. Great to know that this is an option! Thanks again. Ray

Thanks... Don't see the link. Ray

Thank for the great info. Doesn't sound like a real bad of a job. $600.00 out the door at the dealer? Did that include the springs & labor? Thanks again. Ray

Thanks for the input... I hear ya! So true.... There’s a ying and yang with everything. Thanks again. Ray

Thanks for the input. That's too funny..... always good to have a little ammo....LOL. Since my wife and I only have one vehicle, ride is very important to us. After listening to everyone's experience, I'm going to stick without having any suspension changes since I don't need it. Now, just finding one without these changes without ordering is the kicker. I realize a truck is a truck but, these Denali's are the best of both worlds, comfort and hauling. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray

Thanks for the great information. That sounds pretty rough.... After hearing the stories here, I'm going to stay away from any suspension changes other than stock. My heaviest load is my boat at approx. 7,500lb's in which my 2018 2500HD Denali handle's very easily. Also, it appears that these suspension packages may raise the truck one to two inches. My attached garage door is only two inches higher than the spec's of the Ultimate. I do have a pole barn which has a 10' overhead door but, I would rather use my attached garage. Biggest problem is, everything in transit has either the 3500 leaf spring or snow plow package on them. Closest one without, is 260 miles away with the color I want. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray

First, Congrat's on your New Ultimate!! Thank You for sharing this great information! Your two cents is very much appreciated. Ray

Thanks.... That's great information. Maybe, just being a heavier torsion bar won't make a huge difference in ride. With that being said as you know, normally under load gives you a little smoother ride. tahnak again. Ray

Absolutely! Thanks for sharing. Ray

Thanks for sharing.... I would agree, yours in all likelihood would play a difference. Other than that, I would think between the years of yours and your sons there would be some balance due to the newer suspension's. Living here in Michigan, if I get a chance to ride one with and w/o this package, I'll be able to know pretty quick. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray

Thanks....Well stated. I have also heard that there is a heavier duty torsion bar that's part of this package. For sure, todays trucks are pretty amazing in comparison to the older one's in every way. Thanks again. Ray

Thanks.... I hear ya! It doesn't make sense to me either. It's hard to believe that the majority of customers for these Ultimates would want this package. I.M.O., it's an awesome truck for both hauling and overall cross country comfort. Especially, if it's your only vehicle. On the other hand, I'm sure there are some that would like it for personal occasional use. Thanks again. Ray

Thanks for sharing... Ray

Thanks...... Good to know the differences between surfaces. I live in Michigan which has some of the worst roads in the country. My 2018 2500HD Denali handles them fairly well here and great on smooth roads as well. With that being said, anything stiffer would certainly conpromise the ride. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray

Thanks for sharing your experience..... I totally agree, the suspension on todays trucks are a day & night difference from back then. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray

Getting ready to tag a 2500HD Ultimate that's in transit that has a snowplow package. Will this result in a stiffer ride? I really have no plans of using a snowplow but, all of the Ultimates that's being shipped to dealers in my area seems to have this option. I know I can order but, I've been told the orders are taking up to a couple month's or more. If anyone knows and/or has driven one with/without this package, I would sincerely appreciate what your thoughts are on the ride. Thanks. Ray

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Duramax Installed my GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System this past Monday. Spent about 1 1/2 hours between installing and taking pic's. Before I dive into my install with tips and pic's.......... I thank all of you for your help, advice and pic's for installing the HID's! For those of you wondering if you can do this install..... Well, I'm no mechanic by any means..... all you need is a little common sense along with a couple tools. If you meet these demanding requirements then I say "Go for it!" You'll be happy that you did. I went with the following 4300k 35w HID kit which made a night and day difference.GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc This is how our trucks should have came from the factory. The entire install went great like you have explained. For those of you getting ready to dive in, the pic's and comments are given in the same order as I installed them. Pros: Seems to be a high quality kit. (Will know in time) Installation - Simple plug and play. TRS - Extremely helpful staff...... just give them a call if needed. Cons: Only one..... Harnesses could have been longer for more/better install options. The passenger side suffers the most. With that being said, I understand there are extensions available. Step 1: Pre-test kit (Not necessary, but may save you time) a) Remove headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise) on the drivers side. b) Unplug halogen bulb and remove. c) Lay out and plug in your HID kit across the top of your radiator cover. Plug in your drivers side HID bulb into the trucks bulb harness. With this kit there is one positive and three negative cables. Temporarily connect them to your battery accordingly. Test your lights with and without the engine running. In addition, check all other lights for proper working order. If all is working properly and your relay isn't buzzing and your lights aren't flickering you're good to dive in. If not, recheck all your connections. Step 2: As a pre-caution I did the following; a) Remove kit wiring and leave battery cables off your drivers side battery. b) Remove negative battery post on passenger side. Dive.... Dive....... Step 3: Passenger side - Sensors and intake air tube. a) Loosen intake air tube clamp. b) Remove both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor plugs. As smart as I like to think I am... LOL...... I had a little trouble removing these two sensor plugs. I didn't realize that once you pull out the tab (see red one in pic.) you have to press down on the tab in the center and pull at the same time. Once you do that, it unplugs smooth as butter. I told you, I'm no mechanic...... Step 4: Airbox removal; This can be done by either removing whole or by removing the cover and filter first. I ended up removing the cover and filter when re-installing, I'll explain why later. a) Lift up by giving it a tug due to it's rubber grommets in the base holding it in. b) Twist off of the air tube once loose and remove. Step 5: Remove Radiator Cover (Optional) Remove for running/hiding your harness across to the passenger side. Also needed if you use the fender support brackets for grounds as I did. There are 12 push pins in all that need to be pulled. If you take your time, you can do this within a minute or so....LOL Step 6: Remove passenger side headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise) There is a soft plastic protection cover over the cap. I removed the two upper side push pins and folded the cover down out of the way for easier installation. These pins came out a little hard, therefore I replaced them with similar type push pins that are used for the radiator cover. "This will make it easier down the road if I have to change the bulb." A one inch hole needs to be drilled in the center of each cap for the bulb harness and grommet, therefore take both caps to a machine shop for drilling.....LOL Actually, I started out with a 7/8" hole, but it was too small to pass the harness plug through. A 1" hole worked out perfect for both the plug and grommet. I used a step bit which worked flawlessly without side stepping. All this and I even held it in my hand while doing so..... Step 7: Drivers side bulb harness; a) Remove the end clip from the flat harness plug. This makes it easier for the plug to pass through the cap. b) Pass through from the back side of the cap and replace clip. c) Install grommet making sure it's smooth all the way around both sides of cap. Grommet sealed perfectly with no silicone Step 8: Bulb installation; This is another thing most of you taught me. "Make sure it's seated properly." If not seated, your light will not be disbursed properly. Meaning, improper alignment and more than likely less light. This is common sense, but the metal on the housing is thin making it "very easy" to miss a tab; Thin metal bulb tabs; Bulb base not seated properly; Bulb base seated properly; Step 9: :snapp Plug it in man!! Put the cap on.... Step 10: Connecting the harnesses; Since we're still hanging out on the drivers side, we might as well start plugging in the ballast, amp igniter, relay, capacitor link or can-bus (if it's not already). At this point I pretty much ripped off the way "smoked you" installed his kit..... don't tell him, please....... :friends Step 11: Grounding points; I grounded the drivers side ballast along with the capacitor link to the fender support bracket. Be sure to file/sand all sides for making a good contact. I also grounded the passenger side ballast in the same manner. Step 12: Ballast, Amp Igniter, Relay and Capacitor Link placement. Ballast attached to battery negative post and Amp Igniter attached with commercial grade Velcro. ** You can attach the ballast and/or the amp igniter to the fender wall if desired. Step 13: Positive battery cable and harness run for passenger side; a) Run the positive cable near the positive post on the battery. "Do not connect at this time." b) As for the harness leading to the passenger side; I removed the windshield solvent tank bolt and slipped the cable down behind it. I then ran up and across the length of the orange trucks cable using cable ties. Re-install the bolt. Step 14: Bulb Installation Passenger Side - Follow steps 7 through 9; **Considerations before following steps 7 through 9; The flat power connector is not used on the passenger side, therefore you can either; a) Let it hang unplugged. b) Cut and eliminate it from the harness all together. c) My Method: Plug it into the existing trucks plug that was used for the halogen bulb. Take the other end and either shrink tube it or tape/tie it off. I did this for a couple reasons..... a)I didn't want to just let the plug dangle near the trucks power plug. b) Plugging it in protects the trucks power plug. **It's not a big deal in any of the above choices. It's just something I did since I had the shrink tube. Step 16: Amp igniter installation; Due to the harness not being long enough, you don't have much of a choice of placement. When you tie off the amp igniter do so as shown (on top of the trucks existing harness). If you tie it off on the side of the trucks harness, the airbox won't seat properly. Step 17: Ballast installation; The ballast is secured by a self tapping bolt through a raised type washer that's pressed on the rail support. Be sure to use a self tapping bolt that is only "slightly" bigger than the hole in the washer. If not, you may break this washer loose causing it to spin..... Like I did :newly I installed the ballast "before" I reinstalled the airbox. The airbox went in, but it was a little tight getting past the ballast while putting it into position. With that being said, it wasn't a real struggle. Once the airbox is in place, there's only about 3/8" gap between it and the ballast. You have a couple choices; a) You can install the ballast first. b) Do not install the ballast, but run its harness to the ballast location and tie it off temporally into position so it doesn't fall down during airbox installation (Step 18). **If you do this, make sure you pre-install the self tapping screw that's used, then remove it. There isn't any room for a drill to run the screw once the airbox is in place. I would suggest mounting the ballast "after" installing the airbox. Step 18: Airbox, filter, cover and air intake tube installation; a) As shown below, there are three plastic posts with one of them being larger. Due to the larger post having thread type ridges, I found it easier to install by lining up the post (by feel, blindly) at the beginning of the slot. Once aligned, push down and slide the box into position. Now you can blindly feel one of the plastic posts and line it up with its grommet. Once aligned. simply press box into place. Note:This isn't as hard as it may sound.....This is really a simple process. b) Install filter. c) Work cover into position while at the same time connecting the air intake tube. Install the two cover screws. d) Tighten clamp on air intake tube. Step 19: Install both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor harness plugs. Step 20: Install radiator cover. Step 21: Power a) Install the trucks positive battery cable along with your HID kit positive cable. b) Install the negative cables on each battery. Step 22: Check headlight adjustment; Each headlight can be adjusted independently up/down through an access hole through the radiator cover. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver. I hope this helped you as much as everyone else here has for me. Ahhh..... Now you can enjoy driving at night again. Ray

Hi, I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali. I began reading this post which is very informative. I'm a little puzzled In regards to 35w vs 55w bulbs. It appears that using 55w bulbs in the fog light housings cause melting issues. I don't plan on changing my fog lights to HID, but I am planning on HID's for my headlights. With that being said, has anyone experienced any melting issues with using 55w bulbs in the headlight housings? Thanks, Ray