oromero830

I do too.

Both grommets come with wires to plug into the stock oem input and for the amp igniter to plug into the HID bulb. If you wired the capacitor link in between the HD relay and the stock OEM input on your passenger side, then those are just extra wires since you only need to wire one side. I just pulled those wires out of the grommet on the driver side and filled the holes with silicone to prevent any chance of moisture getting in the headlight.

Try flipping the connector from the capacitor link that connects to the OEM input adapter that used to plug into your stock bulb. I drew it out and it's attached. I thought it would be easier to show you what I mean.

Thanks for sharing that. I didn't know to expect that but it makes sense, and TRS confirmed that it's "normal". Do you have any issues with your DRLs turning on or any buzzing when you have the lighting dial set to auto? Have you figured out what's wrong with your kit? Do you have any buzzing? I noticed that my daytime running lights wont kick on automatically now, and I hear a buzzing coming from the engine compartment. When I put the truck into park, the buzzing stops,but i can hear the buzzing sound while I am driving and my DRLs are not on. If I turn the lighting dial from auto to On or Off and then back to Auto, the buzzing stops. I took a video of the buzzing sound from inside the cab but I can only record the noise while I am holding brake. When I can get someone to help me I am going to have someone else sit in the cab and hold the brake when I hear the noise while I open the hood and try to record the noise. This buzzing is very noticable, the humming of the ballasts was much lower and it fades as the bulbs warm up and I can't hear that humming while the engine is running. I've sent both videos to TRS.

I just talked to TRS. They said that what I am more than likely hearing is a humming sound coming from the ballasts and not a buzzing sound. They said that if it was a buzzing sound it would be the relays, and it would be constant and loud. The noise I am hearing starts off high and gets lower as the bulbs warm up, and its coming from the actual ballasts, and not the relays. I didn't realize the humming sound was common, but they said that 90% of ballasts make this humming sound, and OEM ballasts are even louder. I am going to take a video when I get home and send that to them. Does everyone else's ballasts make this humming sound?

This is a follow-up to my previous post. I figured out that the flat pins can connect into the stock low beam adapter and I put some electrical tape around them on the passenger side. I also figured out that I don't need the red/black wire oem adapter on the driver side grommet so I removed it. The passenger side stock low beam adapter is plugged into the output that comes from the relay harness, and it has a capacitor link and a ground. I got everything all wired up and I had some buzzing coming from the ballast that's connected to the driver side bulb. I made sure that my negative ground is grounded to bare metal as was suggested in previous posts. I removed the black paint from the washer, screw, and 45 degree brace. I swapped the ballasts and it was still buzzing. At first the buzzing is loud and it gets quieter but not completely as the bulbs warm up. I read Wendysorbust's post 1748 about his relay being fried. I decided to check that to make sure even though it's a brand new kit. Everything looked normal. When I plugged both relays back in, both ballasts are now buzzing. I've tried unplugging and plugging the relays several times and the blasts are still buzzing. I've double checked all connections. I'm going to call TRS tomorrow. Does anyone have any other ideas?

I ordered the Morimoto Silverado spec HID kit from TRS with 35W ballasts and the 5500k H11B bulbs. I opened the package and started going through the components in the box. I was aware that some of the components would be different from the other Morimoto HID kits that other's had used previously on their silverado's by reading through page 67 of this forum and comparing what I saw to the instructions on this TRS link: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy-installation-guides/guide-hid-bulbs-xb35-h-series.html Up to page 67 I don't recall if anyone used the Morimoto Silverado Spec kit. in the attached picture you will see that this kit has amp igniters, not sure if other kits had those. From the link I see that the amp igniters plug into the ballasts and plug into the HID bulbs. I have a couple questions and am hoping some of you can help. In the picture that I have attached you will see that the grommet has 2 sets of wires going through it: the HID bulb adapter (black and white wires) and wires that connect to the original low beam output (red and black). The red and black wires that go inside the low beam housing have these flat pin-like surfaces, no adapter. How do you connect those to the stock low beam adapter in the housing? Also, the other end of the red/black wires has a male adapter that I believe plugs into a female adapter that comes from the relay harness (called the OEM on harness in pic). The other grommet also has 2 sets of wires, including the red and black wire that plugs into the stock low beam adapter in housing. What do I do with this 2nd low beam adapter wire in the other grommet? The relay harness only has 1 wire with a female adapter that I think only has to connect to 1 of 2 low beam adapters. Do I just cut it out of the grommet since it wont be used?

Hello, I recently purchased a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 High Country. I've been reading the forum on the HID retrofit for some time and wanted clarity on a product. I tried PM'ing Motomedic with a question but it says I can't. I decided that I am going to purchase a Morimoto kit from The Retrofit Source. I have not read every single page on this post because I have not had the time and it's very long. I made it to about page 29 and I noticed there was some confusion about the use of a can-bus or capacitor with the kit. Some users mentioned having to buy this separately because the kit did not come with it. I chatted with a CS representative named Carlos at TRS today, and I am further confused. This was our chat: ********************************************************************************************** Omar Hi Carlos I am interested in the Silverado Morimoto Elite HID System. I have read on a few posts by users who have completed the retrofit on the GM-trucks forum for Silverados and Sierras, that I need to get a capacitor/can-bus to make the kit work correctly. I noticed that the kit comes, with a capacitor link, is that the actual capacitor? or just a link to connect a capacitor some of the people that did the retrofit mentioned having to buy the can-bus/capacitor separately Carlos @ TRS The Silverado kit was built specifically for the new ones. It needs the Hd relay harness with the capacitor link no Canbus The Canbus harnesses are for European vehicles with bulb out warnings on the dash. something your truck does not have Omar okay, my knowledge is limited on what the can-bus or capacitor are but the folks on the forum described those as essentially the same thing so does my truck need a capacitor, but not a can-bus? Carlos @ TRS negative those are completely different products the capacitor link is needed for the pulse voltage in the system. it takes it, stores it and then pushes it out as steady voltage Omar okay, so this is ready to go, no additional parts needed? maybe just some parts for installation like zip ties, etc Carlos @ TRS yes that is all that you need Omar i noticed that the site says DIY install guides, does this kit come with one of those? if so, is it a paper copy, or a file that is emailed or video? Carlos @ TRS the harness diagram is on the product itself http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy-installation-guides/hid-systems-mopar-low-beam-guide.html and you can follow that guide Omar sounds good, thanks for the information Carlos @ TRS You're welcome, let us know if there is anything else we can do for you! ********************************************************************************************** Is the feedback from Carlos @ TRS correct in that I do not need a separate can-bus/capacitor? Thanks in advance for your help. Omar