Charles Dusek

I am contemplating opening up my headlights. I read this post and it looks somewhat straight forward. It is for the Silverado 1500 and I have a 2015 2500Hd but I think they have pretty much the same headlights. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-127?hl=bake&do=findComment&comment=1665093 I had a few questions Does anyone know if I have to take off the outer chrome bezel? I read the it needs to be removed by heating to 200F for a few minutes. "Baking/Opening I've baked mine apart and removed the amber lense when I did my retro. This is going to sound high, but 270* F for 22 minutes is what it took for me. Lower and you're going to be frustrated and do more damage. The permaseal is tough! I didn't outline it below, but do an initial bake for a while around 200* F and remove the chrome trim first. Be careful as it's easy to break on one end (next to grille where vertical sections are thin). I used a straight carbide cutter on my dremel to remove the old permaseal-baking wouldn't taken forever to clean the channels. Test fit several times dry before you attempt to seal it back together." Also, if anyone could give me more information regarding this step or any more tips or tools to use to open the headlight after baking. Last question, where can I find a spare adjuster. I may have stripped mine like in a previous post as I was trying to get the projectors aimed higher. Thanks a million!

To the guy with the problem with his lights flashing. I was having the same issue. The polarity going to the capacitor probably needs to be reversed. I noticed that the red and black wires on my 9011 to H11 adapter were opposite of my H11 female coming from the truck. That meant the connection into the capacitor needs to be reversed before I plugged it in. Once I did that everything fire up.

Does anyone know how to get the fastheadlights bottom projector bolts off once on. I used loctite on them and can get them somewhat loose but I can't get them off. I tried for a couple of hours with needle nose pliers and all sorts of nut turning devices (wrenches, locking needlenose), but that space is tight and its hard to get a grip on the bolt and turn the nut. The bolt/nut just spins together and I probably mangled the threads. Headlight is back on the truck as I was thinking my last option is to drill out the bolts. If there is a socket wrench that holds the bolts from the top that would be great. I will probably have to open the head light to get to it otherwise. IDK if anyone else had this issue but the 3-bolt method put the projector at an angle that doesn't allow me to raise the cutoff high enough. Its okay but I need to either raise the cutoff or I could level the truck. I think I need that top spacer in there in order to get the angles right and that's why I was trying to take out the projector out.

I ran the 55 (50w) in the 2015 Silverado 2500HD stock projectors with no issues. Just replaced the stock projectors with FX-R projectors. Definitely a severe upgrade over stock. Now running 5500k Morimoto XB bulbs in the FX-R with the same 55w ballasts. Crystal clear and very pretty cutoff, but I am having issues adjusting the cutoff where I like it. Once I get the cutoff right we will be in business. Is there anything I could have done wrong with the install to cause them to point lower than stock or is that normal? If its normal I am probably going to add washers to the front-bottom screw in between the headlight mount and the body of the truck to prop them up a little bit more. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Is there a write up on how to remove the 2015 2500HD Silverado headlights to put in projectors. If there isn't anyone that has done it before can they give a few steps? I can only find information specific to the Denalis and i want to know if I need to remove the upper bumper piece or can I get to the bottom headlight bolts some other way. --------- Edit ---------------- My truck does not have upper bumper shroud. found the information here about removal. http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/400/448/448-55122.pdf http://www.hammerheadarmor.com/wp-content/uploads/2015-20XX-CHEVY-2500-3500-FRONT-BUMPER1.pdf Video - Grille removal and Bumper Removal (Helpful for both fog-light and head-lights)

That would work and probably make things easier than rewiring everything. I saw this one for Sierra. Would it be similar? http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=fxr_retrofit-kit_no-HID

I already have 55w 6000k HIDs in the Factory lights and they put out a decent amount of good light. Will the 35w 5000k with the FXR projectors be as bright? I am having an issue where I have to turn my lights on and off to get the right side to ignite and I don't want to go back to the shop where I bought them because I have had to go there so many times to get through the DRL issues. They didn't initially install a relay and so on, but I do have a 2 year warranty on everything through them including bulbs and ballasts with free labor with a 2 hour wait each time. If I go with I assume that I need to remove the head light. Is this true? If so, do you think this video is good to follow for a 2500HD High Country Silverado even though its for the Denali? Headlight, Grill, and upper bumper removal on a 2015 Denali (part1) - YouTube Thanks, Menteleum

I really like this. What is your website? Will this work for 2015 2500HD High Country Headlights? And could you explain what you had to cut? I don't see where you had to cut anything. Sorry for the 20 questions, but this sounds legitimate.

I have 55w Ballast with 6000k bulbs. I love it. Lights up everything real nice. No issues if you get the relay and capacitors in the right order.

55W with 8000k is not enough light and it is blue. It makes made me angry to see halogen lights outshining 55W lights. I knew when I did it I was asking for trouble. But I wanted blue. Just didn't know I wouldn't be able to see! 55W with 6000k is great. Perfect! Get your shine on! 35W with 6000k is not enough light and it is blue. I thought I liked blue lights but not on headlights. Not after 6000k 55W. I wonder how 5000k with 55W is. The guy at thehidfactory.com said it would be tinted yellow. And we don't want any yellow! Oh, but its probably soo bright. I am going back over there tomorrow to get relays and these wangsta 35W ballasts taken out for the 55W ballasts. The 55W ballasts without the relays mess up as they draw too much current under DRL mode and the computer turns off the light. Even my OnStar saw it. It only happened on the left side. So now I gotta take it in and sit for a little while longer in there nice waiting room. Such is life!

Is there a DIY for headlight removal of the 2015 Silverado 2500HD High Country Headlamps? I just put H11 Hids in the factory projectors and it's Flick City here on Houston's bumpy roads. I am hoping that putting the FX-R projectors in will help. If my headlights are still going to flicker even with FX-R then I will just lave them because the light output is high enough from the 6000k bulbs on my 55w ballasts. Also, I have 55w ballasts connected to the H11 bulbs. Would I have to change any of the connectors from the ballast to go with the D2S bulbs that fit the FX-Rs? From previous posts it looks like the Projectors should be an easy swap once I get the Headlights off.