gmckenzie

What's your payload rating? I have a payload of 2015 and feel like I'm maxed out at 8200 loaded. I scaled mine a few years back, and at that weight I had a tongue weight of 1050 (12.8% for those who care). So I had under 1000 lbs remaining for my hitch, cargo in the truck, my wife, 2 small dogs and the part of me over 150 lbs. Without the max tow, my payload would be 400-500 less, and all of it would have to come out of what I carry in the truck. At 7700 lbs, your tongue should be between 950 and 975, so it won't leave much in the truck.

Was going to say that trading in up here makes a lot of sense with the way the sales tax is collected. How willing was the dealer to run the deal? I'm thinking it's only a little bit more work for them, but can save you a boatload of taxes and not cost the buyer any more. Only one who loses is the government....

I need a middle ground. I don't want a diesel DD (did that and ended up parking it in the winter) but am right at the limit of what my NHT is capable of. Doubling my payload would be really nice.

I went from an 01 2500HD duramax to my current truck and agree. Especially since I have a very short daily commute (~3km). But I also see that a gas (6.6L) 2500 will have a payload just short of 4K lbs and as I'm near the limit of what my NHT will pull, it is intriguing. I'm okay with 400hp, but I wish the gas came with more than a 6 speed.

Anyone in this thread as intrigued by the 2020 2500HD as I am?

One comment. If you go the diesel route, check the payload of the 2500HD diesel. Some are only 300 or so lbs more payload than my NHT. If you do diesel, strongly suggest 3500.

A few things. For comparison, I have a 2015 Sierra with the Max tow (5.3L and 3.73 rear) and a payload of 2015 (per the door jam). Crew cab. I live in the Okanagan (born in winterpeg). My trailer is 35 ft and 8,200 lbs loaded (I've scaled it). I am at my max on payload for the truck. I would not tow heavier regardless of 5.3 or 6.2. Ignore towing capacity and focus on payload. Ignore the brochure tongue weight for your trailer as a complete and utter fabrication. Use 12.5% of the fully loaded weight to figure out out the payload hit from the trailer. So 6700 X 12.5% ~850 lbs. I've weighed my tongue on a scale (closed and no trucks around so I spent an hour weighing every conceivable thing). Mine weighed at 1048, so slightly more than the 12.5%, but under 13%. With that, my WD hitch (get an equal-i-zer 4 point or similar, you will love it vs the normal one) and some gear in the back, I hit the 2000 lbs easily. I've been to Banff etc. and yeah, there were times I couldn't do the speed limit up the hills. Plus my set up porpoises more than I like, but I've added Sumo Springs which made a big difference. The worst road is from Jasper to Banff. I'd like a bit more power, but don't want a 3/4 ton for some of the reasons mentioned above. If they put the 6.2L in the 3/4 ton, I'd be serious about trading up, but not for the 6.0L. I know it's a good motor and reliable, I just don't like that it's older tech and kinda sucks for HP. For daily driving, the 5.3L is good enough and I don't have to spend the extra on premium, so I just put mid grade in it when towing and live with going a bit slower. Had a Duramax before, so yeah it annoys me but I'm getting over it. But I would defiantly get the Max Tow. I doubt you would have enough payload otherwise.

Just want to say, wow. So driving within the speed ratings of most trailer tires is now being an a-hole?

What is your trucks payload rating. These things run out of payload long before they hit the trailer number. I've got a 2015 max trailer package with a payload of 2015. I tow a lighter trailer (8200 gross) and max out my payload every time. I would not tow heavier with my NHT and it's rated for 10,800

This is similar to what I do. I'll split the wire I'm attaching into two strands, put them through the hole I made and wrap them around the first wire and then around themselves. (not sure that makes sense writing it out). I may or may not solder at that point. Kinda depends on if I find the gun or not. Then I coatt it in the liquid stuff before taping. Really protects the join better. Wrap with tape and it will never go wrong.

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure my Cargo lights will stay on in reverse. They go off in drive.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I have some small lights in my Amazon cart that will fit in the rear bumper footwell, but not be in the way of using it and want them controlled by the cargo lights. I want them more for hooking up a trailer in the dark and don't need them on all the time I reverse so not looking to have them work with the reverse lights. If I need them, I can hit the cargo light switch easily enough. If you don't want to use a t-connector, the break out the soldering gun. Either way, I use Liquid Electrical Tape on the connection and wrap with actual tape. I've got no issue coating a t-connector with the stuff. I don't think you can get a second wire into the actual connector, if that's what you're looking to do. BTW, thanks for pointing out which wire it is. Saves me searching later.

The rear seat in a double is pretty uncomfortable. Seems to be straighter up and down. Crew cab has more of a slope to the rear seat back and is much more comfortable, regardless of legroom.

I had a "check trailer wiring" note on my DIC and lost my trailer brakes. There is a TSB on it and it' got to do with dirt in a plug by the spare tire. Fixed now but a bit hairy at the time.

So, not sure if it has too much of the "work" look, but I'm really pleased with the one from Princess. Had 6 in the local store. I can install it and keep my tonneau. I've got it held on by the tonneau clamps right now. Are the front stake holes in the trucks actually there and just covered by the cap? I do want to install it more permanently. But I can fit two kayaks now, so in all real happy.