gmckenzie

I'm waiting for a comparison of the Ford 7.3L gas and 10 spd to the GM 6.6L gas and 6 speed to see how they compare. Not saying I'll buy a Ford, but I'm curious how the 10spd works in a similar truck. If there isn't an impact, I may look at a GM in 2020.

Probably when you turn on the rear defrost.

Title pretty much says it all.

So, 6700 gross trailer weight is going to be ~ 870 lbs of tongue weight (assuming 13%). Add 100 lbs for the hitch and bars and you are close to 1000 lbs of you payload used up. That leaves ~500 for people (including how much the driver weighs over 150 lbs) and gear. I don't know what you take, but I'm guessing you'd be close to or over your payload limit.

I have an NHT truck and tow ~8,200 lbs and use the 4 point hitch. One benefit is the sway control is built in. Husky Centerline is a similar design. Other good ones are the Blue Ox Pro and Reese Dual Cam. I'd pay the extra for any of these, but would not pay for the Propride or Hensley unless I towed a lot. What is the payload rating on your truck? It's on the sticker on the door pillar. I feel my truck is near maximum towing weight and I have a payload of 2015 lbs. 6700 may be close for a non-NHT truck.

You should pretty much ignore dry weight and base it off gross, or at least 3/4's of the difference towards gross. Dry weights are pretty much fiction.

No. The rear end is slightly larger (9.76") and the rear springs are different. Give a greater RGAWR than just the Z85. Payload will be more with the NHT (mine is 2015 lbs). These are things that can't be optioned without the NHT.

Biggest difference to me is the 6 spd vs 10 spd. The HP and Torque numbers are not a big enough difference for my needs. But I'd like a 10 spd

Can you post a picture of your labels showing the tow & payload capacity? Block out the VIN of course. Thanks.

I'm confused. Did they measure the drop of the rear or the front of the truck? Everything I've seen says to return the front height to near what it is unloaded. Some options are to less than an inch more, but it's focussed on the front raise, not the rear drop.

As long as you have the tool for the TPMS reset. I label mine when I take them off so I know I've rotated them properly. My winter set (bought from the dealer when I bought the truck) the TPMS dies on 2 of them. No love from the dealer for that, so they get the same love right back. But when I put my summers back on, I just walk around with the cheap tool I bought and my reset is all good.

Could plug a charger into it to recharge the battery.......

Mine went to the dealer for the free oil changes. About a 5 minute walk from work, so I just dropped it off and picked it up after work. Since then it has gone to the shop next door to work. Usually get the tires changed over and the oil done. I'd do it myself, but it's not saving a lot and returning the used oil is more trouble than the savings are worth. We have limited places to return oil where I live.

Another thing to watch out for is if you plug something into the ODBII port. Had a Scanguage on my last truck that pulled almost half an amp when the truck was off. Killed the batteries (2) in a few days.

Has anyone just taken the letter in and gotten the replacement parts without having the issue? I've got the letter, but my brakes have felt fine. But I also plan on towing my trailer this summer, and now I'm a bit worried towing with brakes that could fail. Thinking of taking it in regardless.