gmckenzie

Here is my story. It was a 2001 with a Duramax, so 2 batteries. Came to find the truck dead. Asked my wife what she did as she was the last to drive it. I was joking, but of course should have kept my mouth shut. Explain I'm joking and there is nothing she could have done to cause it. Charged both batteries and it was good for a couple of days, and then dead again. Part of the problem is I have a short commute, so batteries never get a good charge, but they should last more than 2 days. Weekend comes. I've stuck the truck on the charger so I have a good charge. Disconnect on batter entirely so I'm only fussing with one. Disconnect the negative and put an ammeter in line to see what's happening. I see a draw of about 2 amps for maybe 30 seconds, then a slight draw for a minute or so. Repeat. Repeat. I start pulling fuses one at a time. Of course I have to wait a minute or so as it's not a constant draw. One at a time. Cursing all the way. Well, I finally pull one and don't see the draw. Forget which one it is now, but it controlled stuff in the cab. Look online to see what was controlled by the fuse and somehow glean onto one item being the circuit breaker for the electric motors for the seat. Sure enough, I check the control and the seat cover has the control to push the seat forward jammed full back. Move the seat cover, replace the fuse and the mysterious draw is gone. Put everything back together and go inside. Remember above where I told my wife there was nothing she could do to cause it? Well, yeah dumb me (still kinda in a pissy mood) tells her I was wrong and it was something she did. God, some people never learn. Anyway, if you do what the above post suggests, then know that circuit breakers can draw and then not draw. So be sure to check for more than a minute.

First, ignore dry weight. It's a joke. Look at the gross weight and work from there. Tongue weight will be 12-15% of that. Mine works out right at 12.5%, but go a bit higher for estimates. Add 100 lbs to that number for your WD hitch and bars. That is the number to check against payload.

Want to see what a 7.3L 10spd combo does on the test. I tow in BC so everywhere I go is uphill. Not Ike grades but enough that my 1500 and 8,200lb trailer slow down. I do think GM missed the boat with the 6 spd for the gasser.

I'm waiting for a comparison of the Ford 7.3L gas and 10 spd to the GM 6.6L gas and 6 speed to see how they compare. Not saying I'll buy a Ford, but I'm curious how the 10spd works in a similar truck. If there isn't an impact, I may look at a GM in 2020.

Probably when you turn on the rear defrost.

Title pretty much says it all.

So, 6700 gross trailer weight is going to be ~ 870 lbs of tongue weight (assuming 13%). Add 100 lbs for the hitch and bars and you are close to 1000 lbs of you payload used up. That leaves ~500 for people (including how much the driver weighs over 150 lbs) and gear. I don't know what you take, but I'm guessing you'd be close to or over your payload limit.

I have an NHT truck and tow ~8,200 lbs and use the 4 point hitch. One benefit is the sway control is built in. Husky Centerline is a similar design. Other good ones are the Blue Ox Pro and Reese Dual Cam. I'd pay the extra for any of these, but would not pay for the Propride or Hensley unless I towed a lot. What is the payload rating on your truck? It's on the sticker on the door pillar. I feel my truck is near maximum towing weight and I have a payload of 2015 lbs. 6700 may be close for a non-NHT truck.

You should pretty much ignore dry weight and base it off gross, or at least 3/4's of the difference towards gross. Dry weights are pretty much fiction.

No. The rear end is slightly larger (9.76") and the rear springs are different. Give a greater RGAWR than just the Z85. Payload will be more with the NHT (mine is 2015 lbs). These are things that can't be optioned without the NHT.

Biggest difference to me is the 6 spd vs 10 spd. The HP and Torque numbers are not a big enough difference for my needs. But I'd like a 10 spd

Can you post a picture of your labels showing the tow & payload capacity? Block out the VIN of course. Thanks.

I'm confused. Did they measure the drop of the rear or the front of the truck? Everything I've seen says to return the front height to near what it is unloaded. Some options are to less than an inch more, but it's focussed on the front raise, not the rear drop.

As long as you have the tool for the TPMS reset. I label mine when I take them off so I know I've rotated them properly. My winter set (bought from the dealer when I bought the truck) the TPMS dies on 2 of them. No love from the dealer for that, so they get the same love right back. But when I put my summers back on, I just walk around with the cheap tool I bought and my reset is all good.

Could plug a charger into it to recharge the battery.......