gmckenzie

Enough so that I'm likely going to have a Ford in a few months. Been a GM guy most of my life (had a Jeep CJ in there somewhere), but between the 10 spd, a choice of axle ratios and a proper locker, the Ford F-350 looks appealing. I think both will be good trucks, but I'd feel like I was settling to stick with GM at this point.

I have a tiny shake in mine. Never enough to bother me, but I know it's there at ~120kmh. I don't go that fast often. But certainly wouldn't call it a death wobble, so that was new to me. But I do see it impacts all 3 brands for HD trucks. I wish the GM had the 10 spd.

I'm in the same boat. Towing ~8K now with a 1500 (max trailer) but looking at a 350/3500. Also not a Ram fan. Plan on upgrading the trailer in a few years, but not excessive so still want gas. Also, could get by with a 3/4 ton, but BC adds 3% sales tax to 3/4 ton and lower, so the 1 ton ends up cheaper. Been a GM guy all my life, but the lack of a 10 spd and axle choices are making me lean towards a Ford. What is the death wobble? Off to google I go. So why buy GM over Ford?

I'm trying to build and price a 2020 GMC 3500 online (in Canada). SLE trim with 6.6 Gas. I know I can't order it, but the site doesn't have the 2021 HD yet. I'm trying to get the Prograde trailering, but it doesn't seem to be allowed with other packages, like the Kodiak or the SLE convenience package. So I can't get power seats and a bunch of other nice to haves. Is the Prograde worth it? I do plan to upgrade my trailer at some point and would like at least a rear trailer camera.

So, I've got the same problem. So a bad battery will cause my chime and turn signals to not make any noise? I've seen what it takes to replace the battery in these things, and not looking forward to that. Might throw it on a charger first.

Well, I've got mine working. Not sure how helpful my solution is, but it did give me an idea of what is wrong. My low beams had nothing but my high beams worked. A couple years ago, I swapped out my headlights for some that were marginally better. Thinking my next step would be going back to the dealership, I went through the PITA of putting the originals back in so that the dealership wouldn't blame the headlights. Well, the originals work fine (or as good as they can). What I'm thinking is one of my low beam bulbs died, and it confused the BCM so neither worked. I tried resetting the computers by pulling the negative off the battery and taking a half hour before putting it back on, but that didn't do anything. Anyway, sticking with the OEM and griping about the headlights again. But if I were to start over, I'd try a bulb or two first.

Add me to the list with this issue, and not finding an answer....

Here is my story. It was a 2001 with a Duramax, so 2 batteries. Came to find the truck dead. Asked my wife what she did as she was the last to drive it. I was joking, but of course should have kept my mouth shut. Explain I'm joking and there is nothing she could have done to cause it. Charged both batteries and it was good for a couple of days, and then dead again. Part of the problem is I have a short commute, so batteries never get a good charge, but they should last more than 2 days. Weekend comes. I've stuck the truck on the charger so I have a good charge. Disconnect on batter entirely so I'm only fussing with one. Disconnect the negative and put an ammeter in line to see what's happening. I see a draw of about 2 amps for maybe 30 seconds, then a slight draw for a minute or so. Repeat. Repeat. I start pulling fuses one at a time. Of course I have to wait a minute or so as it's not a constant draw. One at a time. Cursing all the way. Well, I finally pull one and don't see the draw. Forget which one it is now, but it controlled stuff in the cab. Look online to see what was controlled by the fuse and somehow glean onto one item being the circuit breaker for the electric motors for the seat. Sure enough, I check the control and the seat cover has the control to push the seat forward jammed full back. Move the seat cover, replace the fuse and the mysterious draw is gone. Put everything back together and go inside. Remember above where I told my wife there was nothing she could do to cause it? Well, yeah dumb me (still kinda in a pissy mood) tells her I was wrong and it was something she did. God, some people never learn. Anyway, if you do what the above post suggests, then know that circuit breakers can draw and then not draw. So be sure to check for more than a minute.

First, ignore dry weight. It's a joke. Look at the gross weight and work from there. Tongue weight will be 12-15% of that. Mine works out right at 12.5%, but go a bit higher for estimates. Add 100 lbs to that number for your WD hitch and bars. That is the number to check against payload.

Want to see what a 7.3L 10spd combo does on the test. I tow in BC so everywhere I go is uphill. Not Ike grades but enough that my 1500 and 8,200lb trailer slow down. I do think GM missed the boat with the 6 spd for the gasser.

I'm waiting for a comparison of the Ford 7.3L gas and 10 spd to the GM 6.6L gas and 6 speed to see how they compare. Not saying I'll buy a Ford, but I'm curious how the 10spd works in a similar truck. If there isn't an impact, I may look at a GM in 2020.

Probably when you turn on the rear defrost.

Title pretty much says it all.

So, 6700 gross trailer weight is going to be ~ 870 lbs of tongue weight (assuming 13%). Add 100 lbs for the hitch and bars and you are close to 1000 lbs of you payload used up. That leaves ~500 for people (including how much the driver weighs over 150 lbs) and gear. I don't know what you take, but I'm guessing you'd be close to or over your payload limit.

I have an NHT truck and tow ~8,200 lbs and use the 4 point hitch. One benefit is the sway control is built in. Husky Centerline is a similar design. Other good ones are the Blue Ox Pro and Reese Dual Cam. I'd pay the extra for any of these, but would not pay for the Propride or Hensley unless I towed a lot. What is the payload rating on your truck? It's on the sticker on the door pillar. I feel my truck is near maximum towing weight and I have a payload of 2015 lbs. 6700 may be close for a non-NHT truck.