crewl1

The sit on top folding covers are probably quickest to remove when necessary, like the SolidFold 2.0 Anything with rails may take a bit longer to remove. Most access without removing is probably the rolling type that store in a canister at the front of the bed, or the flip up type that you can lean against the window. Most are easy to load even when left on as you can slide 4x8 sheets in from the tailgate until you reach the bottom of the cover. If you need to do pallet loads or stack higher than the sides of the bed then buy the one that is easiest to take off.

We go to El Mirage mostly and sometimes Ivanpah. I’ve recently started the Landsailing sport the last couple of years . We started with kite buggies in the late 90s and still take them out with us on the Landsailing trips.

The updated ones have a threaded type shaft that locks the hook in position so it can't be pulled up. The original ones had a smooth shaft that allowed one to pull up on the lid once locked in place. In this pic the old style is on the top and the new style on the bottom. You can spot the threaded shaft in the gap on the new style one. The new style also uses an oval track slider so when it is in vertical position it cannot be shifted or slid into place. That was the issue for my bed extender as I have to be able to open the clamp and slide it under the bed lip, which I can do with the old style but not this new style. They are just sitting here. If anyone wants them cheap send me a note.

I've had the SolidFold 2.0 on my truck for over 3 years now. It's still working well. I updated the latches to the newer ratcheting type but found those weren't easy to use with my extender cage, so I went back to the original ones. They work fine for me and don't lift much at all as others have reported. Here's a pic where it is folded it and I'm using it as a shelf for the front wheel of my landsailer.

That looks a lot like my SolidFold 2.0. I get a little bit of water at the tailgate and through the seam closest to the gate, but I’m in So Cal and rain is a rare occurrence. After 3 years it’s holding up great. Good luck!

eBay has a couple at a lower price. Search for Solid Fold 83450

I considered all the others like Bakflip etc. but I went with the SolidFold because it doesn’t require a rail so when you remove it there is nothing left on the truck. For the two reasons you mention this lid fits the bill.

I have one of these, when flipped inside it keeps small stuff in place. https://www.realtruck.com/amp-research-bed-x-tender-hd-max/R183471P2015Y734MA.html

2 years later my Extang Solid Fold 2.0 that I bought for my 6.5 foot CC is still going strong. Cons: The pebbly finish has turned slightly duller as I don't do anything special to protect it in the hot So Cal sun. Slight valleys have appeared under the front clamp locations. (They say don't over tighten to avoid this but tight enough to hold will cause it.) Cover is not completely water tight as it gets small leaks during rare heavy downpours around the first fold area. Been this way from the start and I expect any folding cover will get leaks. Pros: Easy to remove and replace by one person. When the cover is removed there are no rails in the way, you get full bed access. Very light weight to open and close. Overall I am pleased with the investment. The quality of the cover predicts it should last a few more years. Even with the extreme sun, heat and UV exposure we get here the rubber parts are still soft and pliable and all other components seem to be holding up well. Coming from a solid fiberglass cover on my previous truck I am grateful not to have to ask for help to remove it, or having to keep the lid tilted up in the air when I needed to carry something taller than the bed sides. https://www.extang.com/p-36824-solid-fold-2-0.html

Took my truck in for the Driver Assist Service Warning (beep instead of shake) issue. They replaced the haptic motor actuators referenced earlier in this thread and it appears to work fine now.

I have the SolidFold 2.0 for a year now. Likes: security and convenience of the lid, light weight for easy handling, able to open/close tailgate without opening lid, no rails to get in the way, ability to open it for 2/3 access to bed with it on, and easy to remove when I need the full bed. Dislikes: has developed slight dips in the top where the front clamps are located, can let in a little bit of water on heavy rain along one side of mid hinge. The dislikes are minor compared to the overall utility and convenience of the lid. Construction is good, but it remains to be seen if it will last as long (13 yrs) as my previous one-piece fiberglass lid from my old truck. I suspect not but if I can get half that time with this one it will be worth the investment. The old one-piece was heavy, cumbersome and hard to remove/store so I will never go back to that design.

Haven't taken mine in as the issue is sporadic and haven't had the time. Thanks for the part number.

I got this message now at just under 8k miles. Will check for a pinched wire before I take it in, thanks.

Right but I just figured you could cut the wires before they exit the car and after they go through the harness to the door and solder your new set to the ends. Just so you don't have to do additional wiring routing.

If you have a Bose setup the rear doors may have high pass signal only. There are additional hole and empty rubber plug on the jamb side of the front doors but you will have to get into the boot by poking through the edge where there is room. Why not just use into the existing speaker wires?

Absotively!

Got a new smaller mount to move my G1W dashcam closer to the glass and behind the mirror. Installed the Salex organizer for the center console.

That sounds more like a bad or loose speaker. I would take it in. The dash speakers are supposed to be high passed so could it be coming from the door?

Took my truck in for its first free maintenance visit today. Other than the dealer making me wait till it was at 25% oil life, it was a painless affair. They washed it for me as well. One thing that got me curious is why I had to provide my personal info when he already had my VIN. Aren't the dealers hooked into the Chevy database? Or is only the vehicle info available and not the owner data?

This is funny because I bought a silicone skin to protect my chrome LTZ fob and now it looks like the bottom pic http://www.amazon.com/Black-Silicon-Keyless-Remote-Protector/dp/B00OO88FU6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456974225&sr=8-2&keywords=chevy+silverado+key+fob+cover

It has a plug into a module next to the spare tire if you have the factory bed lights. Let me see if I can find a diagram, there are some floating around in the bed lights thread. Here it is, check this post. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153192-led-under-rail-bed-lighting/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1357412

No I didn't want to go that route personally, I preferred to light up the step itself. Let us know how you like them if you do it.

I'm no expert but it seems to me the wheelbase needs to be stretched as well.

I put mine on the back of the step. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/157013-what-have-you-done-to-your-k2-today/page-394?do=findComment&comment=1762767 When I do the cargo with reverse light mod they will go on in reverse. I angled them a little bit down and out.

Decided to dip my toes in the dash cam world and Installed an inexpensive G1W unit. Video quality seems pretty decent when viewed on the computer.