Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About east3021

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1,916 profile views
  1. Not sure if you still need it, but top and bottom are both 66 ft-lbs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Which ones do you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Is it a four door? 4x4? Check craigslist for comparable vehicle prices, but I’d guess around $5k for a four door 4x4. Maybe around $4k for a two wheel drive. Two-door models would be worth more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. pesky alarms

    Yeah, I wouldn’t yank the wires either but I would think that you could find a reputable shop that could remove it. Is there an LED indicator on that box? The instruction manual gives some information for the light, at least you might better understand what the box is doing right now. http://app.magnadyne.com/dashboard/application/uploads/pdfupload/CarbinePLUS-3000PLUS-4000OwnersManual_Manual.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 1995 Yukon Help

    Alldatadiy.com is a subscription service that is pretty close to a factory manual. It would have troubleshooting and diagnostics that may help. It’s around $30 a year I think. The factory service manual may still be available from Helm, but I’m sure that used copies can be found on eBay and the like. If the power steering was low (you said you topped it off) then there may be a leak and air in the system. That would impact your steering feel and may be worth looking into. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Full parts breakdown manual

    This kind of looks like what you’re talking about, but it would be nice to find whatever program the dealers use. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Won't start

    Here’s a good write-up on testing the starter... A quick check of the battery cables would be in order, making sure they’re clean and tight on the terminals. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-1?highlight=WyJzdGFydGVyIiwic3RhcnRlciciLCJzdGFydGVyJ3MiXQ== Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. The connector uses Bluetooth to communicate with the phone/tablet. I used BAFX model 34t5 on my two 98 models. It came with instructions for setup. The link that I posted showed the steps for getting the CMP offset reading in CarGaugePro. You’ll either watch the reading and rotate the distributor while the engine is running or take the reading, stop the engine, adjust the distributor and repeat. Here a YouTube video on it using a scanner, same principle with the app... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I think that that I’ve heard of the 4.3L having a fixed hold down clamp preventing rotation (I’m not sure as I’ve never had one) but on the 350 vortec you stab it and then have to rotate the upper housing to get the CMP offset within spec before tightening down the hold down clamp. You won’t be physically lifting up and going from tooth to tooth, it’s just the cap and rotor housing that you are turning. Here’s the diagnostic for P1345 (for a 1998 K1500) in case it is something else causing the code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. DashCommand and CarGaugePro are two android apps that can read the CMP retard. I think they’re around $20 or so. You’ll need a Bluetooth OBD adapter (maybe $40) and a cheap android tablet if you don’t have an android phone. I use a $30 Walmart RCA tablet. Here’s a link... http://www.gmt400.com/threads/car-gauge-pro-can-read-cmp.35275/ The app (or scanner) doesn’t actually set the offset. You do that by loosening the distributor hold down screw and turning (rotating) the distributor until the offset is correct as read by the scanner. RPM has to be around 1100-rpm. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate clockwise. Counterclockwise for too negative of a reading. It doesn’t take much, you’ll eventually just be barely bumping it to get it to specification. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. wont start

    If it started with fluid and died after a few seconds, then I’d look for a fuel delivery issue. If it did not start at all, then check for spark. Here’s a good step-by-step diagnostic for a small block... http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/ignition-misfire-diagnostic-tests-1 I’d check your grounds while you’re at it. See if the connections at the VCM (computer) are clean and tight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Fuel pump problem?

    Did the fuel filter get changed? Next time it's low, or really at any level, check the fuel pressure. It should be 60-66 psi with ignition on, engine off, and, once the ignition is off, it should hold within a few pounds for several minutes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Understanding that rust is a given for you guys up north, I'd wager that the dealer paid maybe $1500 for it and did zero work on it other than a quick vacuum job. Any idea if the lower intake gaskets are leaking? Any coolant in the oil? With that mileage, it's possible that it has never been done before, in which case they're likely leaking. Try Craigslist and private party. You'd get a much better idea of how the truck was maintained. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. In the drink

    Is it insured? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I'd agree with that. Unless you just really like the 88-98 style, the subsequent generation (99-06) offered significant improvements and would still be affordable in the used market. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.