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About east3021

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  1. On the question about the catalytic converter/exhaust restriction, you can use a pressure gauge in place of the oxygen sensor to measure upstream pressure: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’d start with taking care of the codes. GM published diagnostic tables for each trouble code (DTC) that gave the technicians step-by-step procedures for remedying each code. These are available in the factory service manuals here... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=700011 ...or at online subscription based services such as alldatadiy.com. Since it’s a bit easier to navigate and is pretty close to the factory manual, I’d get a subscription (it’s around $30/year) and go through each code’s diagnostic procedure to see what the issue is. Good luck, I hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. For the alternator, it’s probably the 105A with the internal fan, but here are the three ones from Rockauto for a visual comparison. Here are the GM part numbers for the timing chain, it looks like the difference is 1/2 vs 3/4 tons, so there’s only one to chose from (14087401). Maybe you can cross-reference with that. If the original u-bolts lasted this long, I’d be inclined to use the GM/Delco ones but maybe others would have recommendations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. This is on a Corvette, but maybe it will help with navigating the menus. After the automated bleed, you would follow up with a manual bleed at all four corners to get any air expelled from the ABS unit. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/3795709-tech-2-bleed.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. The dirty gray body sealant below is what can sometimes crack and let water in. See the screw in the black trim on the right? Remove that and pull up, apply caulk or maybe RTV to that screw hole and any others that you can get to. I didn’t have to remove the wiper arms when I did mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. The diagnostic charts for those codes all reference TRANS fuse #20 (10Amp). You can get a subscription to alldatadiy.com for around $30/year. It has the diagnostic tables for each of these codes, it may be worthwhile looking into. For example, here is P0740 for a 98. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I’m not sure what years the 3/4 and 1-tons used the hydroboost, but would assume that it was for the majority of the model run. A scanner can be used to bleed the ABS module. It would be followed with a bleed at all four corners. A shop did mine two or three years ago for around $80. That may be a more effective way to purge the air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Best I can figure, for the half-tons at least, is this... C/K105 (16) two door Tahoe 107 (03) two door cab, short bed 107 (06) four door Tahoe 107 (53) extended cab short bed 109 (03) two door cab, long bed 109 (06) choices are a Suburban or four door utility. Since there is a 3/4 ton version (209) then the suffix 09 must be a Suburban or a long bed truck. Suffix 07 would then be the short bed version, the Tahoe. 109 (53) extended cab long bed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Here are the model breakdowns for 1998, maybe it will help. The numbers in parentheses are defined at the end of the table. For example, (53) is a two door extended cab. So “K209 (53)” is a four wheel drive, 3/4-ton two door extended cab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. This is the diagnostic for a 1998 with the 350. Not sure if that’s what you have, but would think that the Passlock function would be the same or pretty close to your 99. Hope it helps. It looks like a scan tool may be needed for most of this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Sorry, stock setup was rear drums on these models until the ‘99 redesign...and even then only for a few years until they went back to disc/drum. The hydroboost setup on the 3/4-ton and up reportedly gives better pedal feel than the 1/2-ton setup. Several have made the swap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I remember someone else having a similar issue. They found corrosion at one of the four VCM connectors, causing an intermittent ground and causing a crank/no start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Here is the diagnostic for headlights not turning off on a 98. They have two tables for some reason. When they say “Headlamp and panel dimmer switch” that refers to the headlight switch on the dash. The “headlamp dimmer switch” or “headlamp switch” is the multifunction turn signal/low/high beam stalk. Their terminology stinks. I’d guess that it’s going to be the same, or pretty close, to a 96. Hope it helps. “Headlamps stay on...” “Low beams stay on...” Connector C266: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Not sure if you still need it, but top and bottom are both 66 ft-lbs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Which ones do you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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