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VegasJen

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About VegasJen

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    Enthusiast

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  • Name
    Jennifer
  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Drives
    1999 Suburban
  1. OK, check this out. Yesterday I decided to take the wagon out to see if I could repeat the failure. It's important that I explain now that the plastic covers on the steering column are off because I had to replace part of the shifter linkage. I get gas and as I'm pulling out of the station, I turn hard right (same as the initial failure) and I see sparks coming from somewhere around the top of the ignition lock cylinder. The truck kept running and it was two quick sparks, but they got my attention. I get to where I was going and run a couple errands. At one point, again turning right, the stereo quit working. I also noticed I lost all accessory controls, no windows, no HVAC. But the truck continued to run, although I had my ABS, Brake and Security lights on the instrument panel now. I go out this morning to see if I can figure out what's going on and lo and behold, it's blown the same fuse. Weird that it blew the same fuse as before but completely different symptoms. I disconnected the plug that goes to the reluctor for the Passlock system since it's already been bypassed. There does appear to be a pinched wire in there but I could not duplicate the conditions that resulted in the spark. I drove it around again, even cranking some hard right turns to try and simulate the previous conditions, but no failure. I seriously don't trust this truck. I put a CL ad up a couple days ago for $2k. I won't lose any money but I'll lose a shitload of time if I can get that for it.
  2. That's the one for all ignition function. And it's the main fuse too, so when it goes, all engine related electrical is dead. Starter, ECM, fuel, etc. Everything. But that explains why I had all my other functions like lights and wipers.
  3. Well, I found it, and I'm embarrassed. Do you see the problem? What about now? Sneaky little bastard. I couldn't tell until I held it up to sunlight. I would have thought a big fuse like that would have been more obvious. Truck is back on the road and I don't have to scrap it (yet). Now, I just need to figure out what caused it in the first place.
  4. OK, here's the $64,000 question. If the ECM is dead, is that any reason why the truck won't start? After reading up on the various systems GM used over the years, it would seem mine uses "Passlock", which disables the injectors, but not the starter. So if that's the case, maybe it is more likely to be the aftermarket alarm rather than the ECM. I hope so because if I can't get this thing figured out in the next week, I'm going to recover my engine and new starter and sell it for scrap.
  5. The alarm system is aftermarket. It was in when I bought the truck so I have no idea the brand or how it's wired. The VATS has been jumped with a resistor. I'm thinking I could pick up a used ECM out of the junk yard just to test, but my question is does the ECM control BOTH the start circuit and the ignition? I don't know the answer to that, but that's what makes me suspect the alarm system. It would seem to me that VATS would shut down one or the other, but I would be surprised to learn it shuts down both.
  6. Backstory: I bought this truck ('99 K1500 Suburban) last year in non-running condition. Had to completely overhaul the engine. Got it running last month and it was running pretty well. The only thing, at the time, that it needed was the timing set (code P1345). Otherwise it was running pretty well. So last week I had a doctor's appointment. The truck was running pretty well so I thought I would take it to the appointment. Drove out of my neighborhood and all seemed well. I had good oil pressure, it was still cool so no over heating. I turned a corner on to a major thoroughfare and bam! I just died. Not only did the engine die, but it wouldn't even crank. I got it towed home, fortunately, it was only a few miles. I've looked for anything obvious. Starter is new. Battery is new. Battery cables are tight. All wiring harness connectors are secure. No blown fuses. I put my code reader in the OBD2 port, but it can't connect to the truck. This worries me. I have turned the engine over by hand so I know it's not a mechanical issue. The VATS has already been jumped with a resistor. Now, the truck does have an aftermarket alarm system on it and I'm hoping it's just that. I haven't traced that all the way out yet. That's going to be Saturday's project. I did jump the starter solenoid while the ignition was on. I could crank the engine but it wouldn't run. Given all this, does it sound like it could be the ECM? If it was a bad ECM, wouldn't it still try and crank? Does the ECM also control the start circuit? I'm really hoping it's the alarm system given how much time I've already put into this truck. I'm afraid that if it turns out to be the ECM, I'm just going to recover all my new parts and sell this thing for scrap. I don't want to do that but I'm worried this truck has some bad mojo.
  7. Wow. You really overestimate my technical savvy. Don't get me wrong, I can spin a wrench with anybody. But you start talking about blue tooth and blue ray and blue sky or whatever and I'm lost. Seriously, I have no idea what you're talking about. But that's largely irrelevant at this point. I was feeling confident in my work so Friday I decided to trust it enough to take the truck to a dental appointment. Had to cancel the appointment. First strike against the truck.
  8. That's odd. I easily have 20* of rotation in the distributor. When I originally dropped the distributor, I was a tooth off. Barely got it running but the distributor was hitting the manifold. Redropped one tooth over and got it running pretty well. Idle is a little low but off idle power is good. It just constantly throws that P1345 code. Not looking forward to needing an app. I can rebuild a SBC in my sleep but I've managed to make it to 2018 without ever downloading an app. Don't even know where to go or what to do. I am truly a techno-idiot. So do I need to get a cable to go from the OBD port to my phone? How does that work?
  9. Hey all. I searched "Vortec timing" but none of the results matched my needs. This is actually my '99 Suburban, but it has the old 5.7 Vortec. Anyway, when I got it, it didn't run. Found the gears on the distributor were worn off so the engine came out and a complete tear down/overhaul. It's a budget build "going down the road" motor but I did it as right as my budget allowed. I rebuilt everything, stabbed the motor back in and got it running (because, ya, I can do that) but I have the dreaded P1345 fault. It actually runs pretty well. Idle sucks but above idle it pulls strong and smooth. I can clear the P1345 fault and it will stay clear as long as I'm driving the truck, but comes back on the next restart. This is the first Vortec (but not the first SBC) I've built. I had no experience or idea about the distributor on these. So I need a scanner or some kind of program that will allow me to set the ignition timing to 0* +/-2*. I already have a pretty decent OBD2 scanner so this timing will be just about the only thing I need it for. Kind of like to keep it budget friendly. Any recommendations?
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