VegasJen

Holy crap! I did a search on how to set the timing and didn't realize I posted a thread about this three years ago! Anyway, I still have the truck. It still runs, but I have never been able to set the timing correctly. Fast forward to this week and my uncle has loaned me his Tech 2 so I can finally set the timing properly. I've done some research and everything says I need to find the reading for the Camshaft ****** Offset. I have gone through almost every parameter I can find in the Tech 2 but I don't see anything about the camshaft offset. I figure I have to be missing it somewhere. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL)? Have you checked for codes? Are your gauges normal for the 5 minutes it's running? Why was all that other stuff changed? Was there a reason? I think 1994 was the last year of OBD1 so the amount of info available will be more limited, but it should be easier to work on too. See if you can borrow a code reader. Most auto parts stores have a code reader they will loan you. If yours is OBD1, it probably won't be enough to tell you the exact problem, but it should get you on the right track.

OK, this is NOT a typical failure, but it did happen to me. I got my '99 on the cheap because these guys couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run. When I got it, it had been sitting so long the cylinders were rusted and pistons frozen, so I was never able to go through normal troubleshooting procedures. I pulled the distributor and immediately figured out what they couldn't. The distributor was missing 3-4 teeth, so when it did turn, it was way out of time, but most of the time it just sat there and did nothing. I only bring it up because these trucks are getting pretty long in the tooth and this is very easy to check.

Thanks for the pictures! I will give that a try over the weekend. Once I do that, will I need to re-bleed the rest of the system? Do I bleed that the same way (holding pressure on the pedal)?

Did not know that. I have an Innova scan tool that's pretty decent. I don't know if it can do that though.

Hey guys. Trying to figure out what's going on with my Suburban. It's a '99 I bought a couple years ago. The truck stops OK, but the pedal is really mushy. I have bled the brakes at least a half dozen time and I don't have any leaks. Last spring I completely drained the fluid and refilled it with fresh. Of course, I bled the system per the procedure. I have bled it a couple more times since then and I never get any air from any of my brake cylinders or calipers but the brake pedal is still soft. I can pump the pedal and I do get a good pedal, but just to drive down the street and push the pedal, it's pretty soft. I know the brake cylinders and calipers aren't leaking. Could it be an internal leak in the master cylinder? Any other thoughts/ideas?

Is this the right forum for the Suburban platform? If not, can somebody point me in the right direction? So here's my problem. It's a 99 Suburban K-1500. Any time I turn, the wheels chirp like my Ackerman angle is all wonky. I've looked and the tie rods are a little loose, but nothing outrageous. Wheel bearings are good. Ball joints are good. Even the A-arm bushings are in surprisingly good shape for 175k miles. Truck drives straight down the road. But any time I turn, especially a sharp turn, it's almost like the outside wheel tries to go straight and wants to pull the truck straight too. I can't figure out what might cause this. I'm not real familiar with 4WD but so far as I can tell, it's not engaged. I don't have any kind of indicator light that tells me whether it is or not, but if I push the 4 low button, I do feel a "clunk" in the transmission. Thoughts?

Wow. You really overestimate my technical savvy. Don't get me wrong, I can spin a wrench with anybody. But you start talking about blue tooth and blue ray and blue sky or whatever and I'm lost. Seriously, I have no idea what you're talking about. But that's largely irrelevant at this point. I was feeling confident in my work so Friday I decided to trust it enough to take the truck to a dental appointment. Had to cancel the appointment. First strike against the truck.

That's odd. I easily have 20* of rotation in the distributor. When I originally dropped the distributor, I was a tooth off. Barely got it running but the distributor was hitting the manifold. Redropped one tooth over and got it running pretty well. Idle is a little low but off idle power is good. It just constantly throws that P1345 code. Not looking forward to needing an app. I can rebuild a SBC in my sleep but I've managed to make it to 2018 without ever downloading an app. Don't even know where to go or what to do. I am truly a techno-idiot. So do I need to get a cable to go from the OBD port to my phone? How does that work?

Hey all. I searched "Vortec timing" but none of the results matched my needs. This is actually my '99 Suburban, but it has the old 5.7 Vortec. Anyway, when I got it, it didn't run. Found the gears on the distributor were worn off so the engine came out and a complete tear down/overhaul. It's a budget build "going down the road" motor but I did it as right as my budget allowed. I rebuilt everything, stabbed the motor back in and got it running (because, ya, I can do that) but I have the dreaded P1345 fault. It actually runs pretty well. Idle sucks but above idle it pulls strong and smooth. I can clear the P1345 fault and it will stay clear as long as I'm driving the truck, but comes back on the next restart. This is the first Vortec (but not the first SBC) I've built. I had no experience or idea about the distributor on these. So I need a scanner or some kind of program that will allow me to set the ignition timing to 0* +/-2*. I already have a pretty decent OBD2 scanner so this timing will be just about the only thing I need it for. Kind of like to keep it budget friendly. Any recommendations?