I'm getting a p0107 code so I checked map sensor and the (orange) ground wire is good, and the (grey) wire receiving 5 volts to the sensor. The (green) center wire.(out) registers 0.02 v at 5" to 18 " vacuum . I understand that this voltage should vary with vacuum as in idle or under load. I'm 82 and not real familiar with pcm's and sensors but I'm trying to learn. This truck started to run erratically last week so I'm attempting to pinpoint the problem. Any help appreciated.
Need a map sensor for my 2001 sierra 5.3 and find there are an array of part numbers that apply and prices from 8.-$ to 85.-$ . Some GM brand are made in Mexico and some no name made in US. Any suggestions welcome.
Problem now is I bought a full set of ready made steel lines with connecting hoses and fittings 2 weeks ago and don't want to start modifying anything if I can help it. Can't help but think the old time honored inverted nut/flare fitting would be better than all this combination of steel and nylon lines and the array of different couplers used today. I have had my own double flaring kit for over 50 years and think the modern methods are a lot of mumbo jumbo for commercial advantages.
2001 sierra ext.cab 4x4. I am replacing the three gas lines, engine to tank, and can't see the connection from the nylon to steel vapor line. The nylon line runs down between the left head and firewall and joins the steel line above the bell housing . Can't see it from above or below, very tight clearance. Pressure and return connections are in plain sight . Any advice appreciated.
A couple months ago I was having a no start problem with my 2000 k2500 5.7 pickup. At the time I was getting spark to the two plugs that I had put testers on so I was looking more toward a passlock system problem or maybe insufficient fuel pump pressure. ( It has 58 # cranking ) Calls for 60 - 66 # key on . 3 weeks ago I needed my inside space so I towed it out and let it set. Finely our weather warmed up this week and after a couple warm days in the 60's I tried it and it started right up, then it rained 2 days and back to crank,no start. When I had put my problem on this forum a couple of the suggestions were to replace the distributor cap and rotor. Yesterday I put a new cap and rotor on and it starts and runs good as ever. The inside of the old cap had white crusty buildup around the center and each cylinder contact. I 'm hoping my problems are solved and I want to thank those that gave me good advice.
The ( chug-chug) that I mentioned was the engine turning backwards after cranking ,then releasing the key back to run position. When cranking there is no indication of it trying to start and it does turn over normally when cranking. I haven't checked the cap and rotor yet as I had to pull it out of the garage for the time being. I'll get back to it when the weather warms up. Thanks for the advice.
I would like to know if my 2000 k2500 5.7 ( old style ) is the same as 1998 -99 in all respects, such as ignition, injection (spider injectors) and all other systems and specifications. All info I seem to find about year 2000 has to do with the Silverado models
I have a 2000 k2500 (old style) 5.7 208000 mi, that started and ran good for years, sat 3 weeks, cranks but won't start. Fuel pump pressure ( key on) 62# for 1second ,dropping to 58# and holding.Has spark to plugs and the plugs are dry. When cranking 3-4 seconds ,release key to run the engine wil kick back 1 or 2 times ( like chug-chug ). If cranking 8-10 seconds may chug 3-4 times. Once I cranked it about 15+ seconds it started ,went to high idle for 2 seconds and died. Fuel pressure holds at 55-58 over 1/2 hour ( key off ). I need help.
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