shiro

@bass mechanic, thanks for sharing the detailed wheel and tire information (including offsets). I've been trying to decided on 20x9, 20x10, 22x9.5, or 22x11 on Fuel Assault wheels. I think 22" look pretty nice on the 2500/3500s.

Tbone55, that "Haloview Power Booster and Filter" would be connected to the camera's power cable and the connection on the trailer where the camera is mounted. Basically, it will go in-between the camera's power plug and trailer's camera mount power plug. You may need to secure/adhere the small booster on the external wall of your trailer. On a side note, there have been other fixed at the main trailer plug on the vehicle and the trailer's 7-pin connector. Overall, the problems lies with GM's usage of PWM (talked about earlier in the forum), which caused the camera to drop power. PWM is a good and more advance design for safety and reporting to the vehicle's computer(s); but, with these cheaper chinese-made cameras the PWM system wasn't designed for their compatibility. I believe future camera designs may take this into consideration as technology advances more. I make this comment since I'm an engineer for some government applications, but not for automotive. The concept can still scientifically apply. Hope this helps.

@WwRGSwW, I don't want to get your hopes up, as I have not done much research yet, but you may be able to add an interior window film (or possibly tint) that can give you the same benefit as a "specialty" windshield being discussed in this topic. My father just picked up his 2019 Silverado LT All Star and I plan to do some awesome modifications to his truck for him. One thing I've always liked is a HUD and I hope to look into this over the next month or so. Just food for thought.

Ricker6869, I plan to do this change with my 2015.5 GMC Sierra SLT. The bumper and grill were slightly damaged so doing this upgrade (swap) would be awesome. It sounds like you've done some of the "leg" work. Care to share any additional information? I'm guessing we can keep the hood but we just need to replace the following? -- bumper grille headlights fog lights radiator cover molding between grille and bumper If there is any major parts I'm missing out on, please let me know. I am hoping to do this swap at the end of December 2016 or the start of 2017. Thanks!!

Thanks a lot for the images and information. This is perfect on deciding how to wire a system if a person doesn't want to use an aftermarket digital processor. I would love to use this information in a write up later next month.

I've been slowly doing my own system upgade and taking pictures along the way. I hope to creat a nice build list once I am finished. But to answer your question(s)... I know for the bose setup these are the speakers sizes: Front Dash: 2.5" @ 3.2ohms (with bracket is about 2 3/4") Front Door: 6x9" woofer @ 2ohms (bose) Back Door: 5.25" spearker @ 3.5ohms (bose) Subwoofer: 5.25" @ 1ohm (bose with bucket seats) To remove the dash speakers you will need to remove the pillar covers/trim first on both sized. The passenger side will have two bolts for the "oh sh1t" handle. Then you can pry up the speaker grill. It is one piece going from both sides (connecting both speaker grills). Be sure to be mindful of the sensor for your automatic lights. the cable is short and if you forget you can break the connector for the wires.