mdrew

I'll answer my own question. It was a bad ignitor. For reference, when i plugged the new ignitor in, bulb disconnected, the sparking/clicking noise was not there. It just hummed like it normally does when the bulb is lit.

Yes sir. Solid ground with paint removed. Under the cross brace bar on the passenger side. I got the Elite kit with 12v harness that connects to the battery +/- posts too.

I recently installed the Morimoto 35w kit on my 15 Sierra Denali. Both sides were working fine until yesterday. The driver's side will not fire now. It's a PITA to get to the pass bulb, or I would have swapped them already. Plus it's cold out and I don't have room in the garage right now. I did however swap ballasts. Didn't do any good. I pulled the bulb, but it looks normal. I then unplugged the bulb from the ignitor and turned the light switch on. A brief sparking/clicking noise could be heard, then stop. I then unplugged the ignitor from the ballast and turning the light switch back on. No noise. This tells me the ignitor is getting power. Is there a way to use a multi meter on the bulb to check it?

I dearly miss the proximity entry my Ram had. How anyone could not like the convenience of simply touching the door handle to unlock the door is beyond me. Especially when carrying things. But to each their own, whatever. Now the push button start.....mixed feelings about that. I never could figure out a routine for putting the fob in the same place every time I got in the truck. I'd often find myself searching for it. My vette has it, and the damn fob has to be in just the right spots in the car, or it isn't detected. That gets iritating. But to the OP's questions, I can't imagine adding this feature. It would be a complex job I think. Just the door handles alone. I'd still do it though. Excuse to buy a new truck in a couple years I reckon.

4200-4500k is excellent for seeing black ice, should a person live where it can be found on the road (myself). 5000 and higher will make it more difficult to see. Plus, seeing blue snow from the light makes me queezy for some reason.

I'll have to call Phil and get some more details. I have my vette torn apart in the garage right now, so I don't have room for the truck. That means I get to lay on the ice and snow in my driveway. ..with numb fingers. This project might have to wait till spring.

Were you aiming the lights in the pic above kristop? The 'kit' from Fastheadlights is what I have been looking at. Are there any videos or instructions with pics that describe the process for this modification? Are there any other methods for welding the housing, other than JB Weld? Epoxy, possibly?

Thanks again. I'll have to give this more thought before proceeding with my decision. For me, it really just comes down to whether or not I want to try and separate the housings to install the HID projector. Not to keen on cutting the back cover off, but not all that excited about melting my housings (accidently), and not getting them to seal correctly.

I get the drift, sorta.... Thanks. So is it the physical size of the projector, the lens design, or combination of both? And what's the difference between the HID and halogen bulb light output that would require a different type of projector housing/lens? I'm a tech guy. I need to understand the "why" from a theoretical perspective.

The massive thread posted above probably has the answers I'm looking for. I just ran out of energy and patience to wade through 150 pages of back and forth relevant information. I've been trying to ascertain what the real issue is with using the OEM projector when converting the headlights from halogen to HID. I've done this to my last two Sierra Denalis without any negative side effects that I can recall. I am however finding some conflicting points of view with the retrofit to one of the Lexus projectors. I'm not trying to nickel and dime this head light conversion, and if the right thing to do, is to cut open the housings and retrofit the projectors, I'll give that a try. But if there is little to no gain or improvement with the light, then I'd rather spend my time doing something else. So what is the real reason for this swap/retrofit, and is it worth the time and expense, plus the risk of screwing up a perfectly good housing?

I've been traveling. I'm not following you? Are you saying it should fit, or? I think I'll just call Range Rider to verify. After playing some more, trying to get the cap to line up better, the back window hits too. I'm beyond pissed at this point. The other thing I did not mention, is I originally ordered a Jason Industries Cyber from this shop. The shop had troubles with the shipping from Indiana (damage and delays), so he told me he was switching to their supplier in Canada. I picked it up and noticed the Range Rider tag in the window and asked WTF? He then told me they were the same company, but different brand name. It was late and I had to get on the road so I didn't push the issue.

Thank you! I had no idea there was a light delete option. And to clarify, the shell was bought from a truck accessories shop, not the GMC dealer.

All I need is a different light or plate. The light can't even be seen. I hardly consider this "modifying" a 60k truck. Good grief..... Take a look at this light on your trucks. It must stick out a good 1.5". If I could simply move the cap 3/8" foward, the fitment would be OK. Still not great but good enough. I've been dealing with the dealer for five months and am worn out (screwed up a simple wheel and tire order too). Winter is here and I just want to be done with this.

Gee that was an incredibly helpful response. How would you suggest I fix the canopy, sawzall? Just start hacking away on a $3000 painted fiberglass shell?

Short version of a long, sad story...... I need a cab brake light, or maybe even a block off plate that does not protrude rearward. Reason being, I just had a canapy installed, and the damn thing is sitting too far back. I can't move it foward enough to fit flush with the back, and not hit the brake light in the cab. The canopy is a cab high unit made by Range Rider. It is their Apex Sport model that is suposed to have extended sides that cover the bed rail protectors. The fitment on this isn't great. I've been surfing the net trying to find a different light, but having had much luck finding one with a side view that will show how flush it will fit the cab.