mdrew

I'll answer my own question. It was a bad ignitor. For reference, when i plugged the new ignitor in, bulb disconnected, the sparking/clicking noise was not there. It just hummed like it normally does when the bulb is lit.

Yes sir. Solid ground with paint removed. Under the cross brace bar on the passenger side. I got the Elite kit with 12v harness that connects to the battery +/- posts too.

I recently installed the Morimoto 35w kit on my 15 Sierra Denali. Both sides were working fine until yesterday. The driver's side will not fire now. It's a PITA to get to the pass bulb, or I would have swapped them already. Plus it's cold out and I don't have room in the garage right now. I did however swap ballasts. Didn't do any good. I pulled the bulb, but it looks normal. I then unplugged the bulb from the ignitor and turned the light switch on. A brief sparking/clicking noise could be heard, then stop. I then unplugged the ignitor from the ballast and turning the light switch back on. No noise. This tells me the ignitor is getting power. Is there a way to use a multi meter on the bulb to check it?

I dearly miss the proximity entry my Ram had. How anyone could not like the convenience of simply touching the door handle to unlock the door is beyond me. Especially when carrying things. But to each their own, whatever. Now the push button start.....mixed feelings about that. I never could figure out a routine for putting the fob in the same place every time I got in the truck. I'd often find myself searching for it. My vette has it, and the damn fob has to be in just the right spots in the car, or it isn't detected. That gets iritating. But to the OP's questions, I can't imagine adding this feature. It would be a complex job I think. Just the door handles alone. I'd still do it though. Excuse to buy a new truck in a couple years I reckon.

4200-4500k is excellent for seeing black ice, should a person live where it can be found on the road (myself). 5000 and higher will make it more difficult to see. Plus, seeing blue snow from the light makes me queezy for some reason.

I'll have to call Phil and get some more details. I have my vette torn apart in the garage right now, so I don't have room for the truck. That means I get to lay on the ice and snow in my driveway. ..with numb fingers. This project might have to wait till spring.

Were you aiming the lights in the pic above kristop? The 'kit' from Fastheadlights is what I have been looking at. Are there any videos or instructions with pics that describe the process for this modification? Are there any other methods for welding the housing, other than JB Weld? Epoxy, possibly?

Thanks again. I'll have to give this more thought before proceeding with my decision. For me, it really just comes down to whether or not I want to try and separate the housings to install the HID projector. Not to keen on cutting the back cover off, but not all that excited about melting my housings (accidently), and not getting them to seal correctly.

I get the drift, sorta.... Thanks. So is it the physical size of the projector, the lens design, or combination of both? And what's the difference between the HID and halogen bulb light output that would require a different type of projector housing/lens? I'm a tech guy. I need to understand the "why" from a theoretical perspective.

The massive thread posted above probably has the answers I'm looking for. I just ran out of energy and patience to wade through 150 pages of back and forth relevant information. I've been trying to ascertain what the real issue is with using the OEM projector when converting the headlights from halogen to HID. I've done this to my last two Sierra Denalis without any negative side effects that I can recall. I am however finding some conflicting points of view with the retrofit to one of the Lexus projectors. I'm not trying to nickel and dime this head light conversion, and if the right thing to do, is to cut open the housings and retrofit the projectors, I'll give that a try. But if there is little to no gain or improvement with the light, then I'd rather spend my time doing something else. So what is the real reason for this swap/retrofit, and is it worth the time and expense, plus the risk of screwing up a perfectly good housing?

I've been traveling. I'm not following you? Are you saying it should fit, or? I think I'll just call Range Rider to verify. After playing some more, trying to get the cap to line up better, the back window hits too. I'm beyond pissed at this point. The other thing I did not mention, is I originally ordered a Jason Industries Cyber from this shop. The shop had troubles with the shipping from Indiana (damage and delays), so he told me he was switching to their supplier in Canada. I picked it up and noticed the Range Rider tag in the window and asked WTF? He then told me they were the same company, but different brand name. It was late and I had to get on the road so I didn't push the issue.

Thank you! I had no idea there was a light delete option. And to clarify, the shell was bought from a truck accessories shop, not the GMC dealer.

All I need is a different light or plate. The light can't even be seen. I hardly consider this "modifying" a 60k truck. Good grief..... Take a look at this light on your trucks. It must stick out a good 1.5". If I could simply move the cap 3/8" foward, the fitment would be OK. Still not great but good enough. I've been dealing with the dealer for five months and am worn out (screwed up a simple wheel and tire order too). Winter is here and I just want to be done with this.

Gee that was an incredibly helpful response. How would you suggest I fix the canopy, sawzall? Just start hacking away on a $3000 painted fiberglass shell?

Short version of a long, sad story...... I need a cab brake light, or maybe even a block off plate that does not protrude rearward. Reason being, I just had a canapy installed, and the damn thing is sitting too far back. I can't move it foward enough to fit flush with the back, and not hit the brake light in the cab. The canopy is a cab high unit made by Range Rider. It is their Apex Sport model that is suposed to have extended sides that cover the bed rail protectors. The fitment on this isn't great. I've been surfing the net trying to find a different light, but having had much luck finding one with a side view that will show how flush it will fit the cab.

I did not take pics. Not sure when I'd have time to either. The "shim" is just aluminum flat bar that I stuck to the A-arm with tape. I did not want it to move around because the sensor bracket has little ears that hold it in position to the A-arm. So therefore, the shim will need to do the same thing. Just crank the front wheels and stick your head in and take a peak. It'll make more sense if you do. For 2.5", I would guess you'll need about 3/8", plus the tape. You may need a longer bracket bolt too.

For general reference, to anyone wanted to install a mild level, I'll describe what I did. Firstly, I really did not want to "level" this truck. I want some rake, as I do use truck for truck things, like hauling and towing. I will also be installing a cab height shell as soon as it arrives. I was shooting for about 1/2" rake. I have some new wheels and tires on order as well, but nothing big. Just 275/60/20's. Or, 33X11. Not knowing exactly how thick the strut spacer would need to be, I bought one I could easily machine at home on my router table, so I bought the Zone brand 2" level kit spacer kit. Which was basically just two high density plastic spacers 1.125" thick and two new G8 bolts. Some quick math, assuming 1.125" would yield a 2" lift, I machined the blocks down to a thickness of .850". The goal was to raise the front 1.5". Pre/post shim install did in fact lift the front approximately 1.5". It's difficult to get exact measurements, but I'm calling it good enough..... The measurements were from the bottom edge of the front air dam to the garage floor. For the sensor, some measurements were needed. With the weight of the front end on my floor jack, under the lower A-arm, and the wheel/tire removed, I took a straight edge and placed it on the frame. I placed it so that I could take a measurement from the straight edge to the sensor rod bolt that attaches the vertical rod to the bracket that is bolted to the upper A-arm. (NOTE: a jack stand needs to be placed under the frame rails while doing all this). The net distance before the shim install, and then after, was 5/16". This was not enough distance to install an extension bracket, as the center to center bolt holes would be too close. I elected to install shims under the bracket to compensate for the 5/16" difference. I eventually ended up buying some aluminum bar stock, 1/4" thick X 1" in width X 3" in length. I then just cut down the inner corners to the same width as the A-arm, and used double sided 3M tape to stick the aluminum shim to the A-arm with a hole drilled through it for the bracket bolt. To experiment a bit, I also made 1/8" and 1/16" aluminum shims. I wanted to keep the factory ride. And I'll tell you all, an 1/8" difference will give the truck a different ride. Some may not think so, but I suspect they are also installing different tires when they do this. I know the ride is different, as I just re-installed the same wheels / tires. My initial shim was nothing more than a few washers, so I could get the truck re-aligned before installing a more permanent bracket shim solution. After the truck was aligned, I then played around with the aluminum shims. I started with the 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16" shims stacked. This amount gave the truck a noticeably softer ride. Corner roll was also more than the stock ride. At the extreme of my 'experiments', was with the 1/8 and 1/16" shims installed. The ride was stiffer, and corner roll control was better. The 1/4" shim, with the additional thickness of the 3M tape feels the closest to the OE ride. Also, as a tip, bend the bracket, just a tad, prior to bolting it down to the A-arm. The bend will compensate for the compression you will get using the double sided 3M tape. The tape is used to make sure the aluminum shims do not move around on the A-arm, as the bracket ears will wrap around the shim.

I took a similar approach. I bought the Zone 2" level blocks. They are a high density plastic, 1.125" thick. I did not want to raise the front 2", nor did I want to change the geometry of the A-arm assembly too much. I machined the blocks down to .850" on my router table. Ended up lifting the front 1.5", as measured from the bottom of the front air dam to the my garage floor. I still have a slight rake, which I wanted to keep for towing and hauling. My truck in a Denali with Mag ride, so I also had to shim up the sensor rod bracket. Pre/Post block measurements to the A-arm called for a 5/16" adjustment. A 1/4" X 1" piece of aluminum bar stock, and 3M double sided tape took up that much space between the A-arm and the bracket.

Thank you. I have some Falken ATs on order. Same size. I also have Zone 2" spacers coming, just in case they rub. I have the mag ride though, and not crazy over changing the a-arm geo with spacers and oem a-arms with mag ride. But, the rake on this truck is just too much. I think a 1" rake would be perfect, and maybe air bags for towing. I'll be experimenting. ....

Did the 275/60/20's rub without the front leveled?

None yet..... Cognito told me they have one in the works....Kinda like the check's in the mail at this point. I may just try the kit that adds a shim under the shock for the time being.

Seems like an innovative way to find correct amount of distance, to fabricate a block of the correct dimensions at a later date. I like it. I think I would use some SS tubing and a longer bolt after finding exact length. Which level spacer did you use? On top of, or on the bottom of the shock? I've been looking into a level, or possibly a lift, but not real happy with any of the options. None of the level kits come with A arms, and all the lifts require heavy cutting and molestation of cross members and drive train components. There's no way in hell I'm about to 'whittle' on my new luxury truck.

62 pages later, and I am drawn to this set up.... .Just looks good to me.

I'm sure that will work, but the geometry will still be affected. I just don't see how it wouldn't be. Maybe to a lesser degree if the spacer was at the bottom of the shock.

Well after reading through this thread, and options available to lift the front, I think I’ll be waiting a few months to see what other manufactures come up with. I don’t particularly like the idea of simply installing a spacer between the shock assembly and the frame. That will throw off the upper A arm geometry. I think a better option would be to install a longer upper A arm along with the spacer. The Fabtech 4” suspension lift is not all that appealing to me either. After downloading and reviewing their installation procedure, I’m not about to make the modifications required for its install. I suggest others read the instructions prior to going with this lift. It requires some fairly significant, and non-reversible cutting/modifying of the differential and braces. I did call Cognito to see if they had anything in the works for this truck. They are currently in the process of designing a level kit, but no firm date on its release. It will include new A arms. They may also just skip the level option and offer a complete lift.