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Chevrojayy97

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About Chevrojayy97

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  • Birthday 07/10/1997

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  1. I am not sure which heads I have, I haven’t pulled the rockers yet to see if I have Castechs for sure. I’m assuming that I do based on other Castech related posts on this forum, and GM included the L33 in the TSB for Castech heads. THIS is the part that I find really weird, oil still has some milky look to it after driving it for a week, so I’m going to do another oil change and hopefully I will start seeing less water in the oil. Ever since I put the stop leak in, the coolant level hasn’t moved and the temp gauge is holding true at 210 degree. Oil pressure is perfect at 40lbs. If I had the dreaded Castech heads, wouldn’t I be losing coolant out of the tank? Tank is pressurized as well, which is what is puzzling me!? All the classic signs of heads or head gaskets just simply aren’t showing up, yet I still have water in the oil. Everyone I know asks about condensation on short trips, but I always let the truck warm up and usually drive it around 30-40 minutes per trip. Anybody know what’s up?
  2. Thank you for the advice. How do I run an exhaust gas test? Would that be like a compression test?
  3. Hey guys, forgive me if this has been asked before, but the search forum feature was no help. I have a 2006 Silverado 5.3 (L33) that I bought as a beater with some body damage and small mechanical issues. I replaced the EVAP canister first thing before I registered the truck, and have a a new catted y-pipe and cat back exhaust on order from a hack job exhaust from the previous owners. I'm removing the rubbing 16x10's for stock sized wheels and felt like I was making great progress on this old truck. It just turned 165k miles, and i noticed the oil pressure was dropping at idle to below 20. I immediately pulled the stick and found a little water in the oil. I figured I have the dreaded Castech heads, and am glad I caught the issue early. I've always been against stop leak products, but I had read some good reviews on Bars Leak HG-1 and how it "supposedly" is formulated just for heads and not prone to stopping up radiators or heater cores. I've driven for a couple hundred miles and oil pressure and coolant is great. No leaks, tank is pressurized, and I'm constantly holding 210 degrees and 40 lbs oil pressure. I'm writing this new forum for 2 reasons. 1.) Was adding this to my cooling system a huge mistake? I'm hoping that it will last until spring and just get me through the winter until I can either get another truck or repair this one correctly. I'm still going to install the new exhaust and do some mild paint and body work to aid in resale on the truck. I don't want to sell someone a bad truck, but I don't want to spend a ton of money if it's a small issue that is truly fixed. I've read others are driving 50k miles with the HG-1 in their vehicles... 2.) Worst case scenario, if I need new heads, what are some good replacements? Are there any heads from other LS Powered vehicles that would make a good replacement? Thanks in advance everyone.
  4. Hey everyone, I’m currently running 20x10 -19 Hostile’s with 33x12.50 Nitto’s on a 2.5” Level with minimal rubbing. When these tires wear out, I would like to get a true lift kit for the sake of not stressing out the ball joints and CV’s as much. Pretty much dead set on the Zone 4.5” Kit and adding Rough Country Control Arms if that is possible. I’d like to keep my current wheels, but want something in between a 33” and a 35” with enough section width for the 10” wide wheel. I came across the 315/60/20 Toyo MT and was wondering how they would fit on a setup like this. If they just rub minimally at full lock, I could live with that, but I don’t want to completely cut my fenders at an angle. Thanks in advance!
  5. What's up guys, I've searched the forums and haven't had any luck. I've read about people removing the stock rear block, and people adding a leaf, but never doing both together. I am bumping up to a 2.5" Front Leveling Kit, and want to run an add a leaf kit with it. My thinking is that if I remove the 1.25" block and add the leaf spring then the truck should sit pretty level. What does everyone think? Could I use the supplied U-Bolts with the Zone Kit or use my factory bolts since I'm removing the block. Hope that makes sense, any help is appreciated. Truck is a '16 Z71 4x4.
  6. Dave, that’s exactly what I expect to happen. I’m a member for this forum for a reason, to collaborate with other owners and see if they’ve run into the same problems I have. I search the forums to see what I can find, and If I don’t find what I need, I make a thread asking fellow owners if they’ve been through the same thing. I fully expect the dealer to do their job of selling the parts they want you to have, that’s a no brainer. My main questions of the post are 1) will the 1A Auto Mirrors hook up to a harness just like a GM Mirror would? And 2) what would the dealership charge to add these in before I call around and get quotes from dealers to do the work. I just want a good ballpark figure so I don’t get cheated.
  7. Thank you man! If I can't get the dealer to make these work I'll give him a message. I've been stalking the threads religiously, but nothing in particular about the 1a auto mirrors with factory harnesses.
  8. Hey guys, About a year ago, I installed some 1A Auto Tow Mirrors as a cheap alternative to the insane prices GM wanted for their mirrors. I found some door harnesses on eBay, and was wanting to know if they would work with the 1A Auto brand mirrors. I was originally going to hard wire them, but I'd much rather have a plug and play solution. Also, does anybody know what a dealer would charge to install the harnesses? Thanks in advance. Here's the harnesses: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Trailering-Mirror-Wiring-Harness-Right-Left-Set-14-17-Silverado-Sierra-/322165720650
  9. Yep, took it in and they claimed the aftermarket exhaust changed the flow around the 02 sensor, but replaced it under warranty. I call bs, but at least they didn’t argue.
  10. Hey guys, first off I’ll give a little background. Bought my truck in April 2016 with 2 Miles on it. Been awesome an no issues thus far. June 2016 I added a cat back exhaust system professionally installed and that’s the only modification I’ve done. So today, December 22, 2017, I hop in the truck to go to lunch, and the CEL comes on. Borrowed a buddy’s code reader and got the following codes. Looks like it’s all 02 sensor related, and the truck has 33,500 Miles as it sits so it’s under warranty. I doubt that it being that large of a time interval that the exhaust has anything to do with it, but I wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing similar issues. Any help is appreciated. P0138 P013A P013C P0158
  11. My trans is usually around 190-192 degrees towing. I always run tow haul with anything more than an empty trailer, so the gear hunting isn’t bad at all to me. Now unloaded, under 50 mph, it’s a b***h and will be tuned once I hit 36k miles.
  12. Just posted this in another 3.08 topic! My 2016 2LT Z71 Double Cab 4x4 5.3 6 spd with 3.08 is my first real "truck." I've had smaller mini trucks like a Dakota, and a K5 once, so I never done a lot of towing with my own personal truck, just others. My truck has the trailer rating of 6,200 lbs, so definitely not the optimal towing platform "on paper." I will say this, whenever I need to trailer, the truck is no slouch. There are times just driving to and from work that I wish I had a higher gear to improve acceleration, but it absolutely isn't a deal breaker. I've hauled three cars in the piedmont of North Carolina, so some hills and some flat land, and it honestly pulls like a 3/4 ton. The truck is very smooth and acts like it likes to have a load behind it. Two of the cars were around 3,000 lbs, and the other was a 4,500 lb Mercury Marauder land yacht. The trailer I pull is every bit of 2,000 lbs empty, a 16' Hudson Equipment Trailer. I've also had 2 tons of brick chips on the trailer as well, so that would be 4 instances I've had 5,000-6,500 lbs behind the truck, and it does just fine. Don't get caught up with the hype of having to have the best of everything on the order sheet. Now, I'm not saying don't opt for a 3.42 or 3.73 truck, but if a great deal comes on a 3.08 like I got, don't be scared of the high ratio. If you occasionally pull like I do, and use the truck like a half ton is intended to be used (a homeowner/light duty truck for occasional hauling in my eyes) you'll be just fine. Hope that helps
  13. Also, if I do highway trips around 50-65mph, I'll see an average of 22.5-23 mpg no issue, and I don't baby it. In town I rarely see lower than 17 mpg. That's running 87 octane, no tune, no intake, I just have a glasspack muffler in place of the stock. Towing 6,000 lbs, I would usually get 12-13 mpg.
  14. Sorry to bring up an old thread, I was just reading through threads containing 3.08 gears. My 2016 2LT Z71 Double Cab 4x4 5.3 6 spd with 3.08 is my first real "truck." I've had smaller mini trucks like a Dakota, and a K5 once, so I never done a lot of towing with my own personal truck, just others. My truck has the trailer rating of 6,200 lbs, so definitely not the optimal towing platform "on paper." I will say this, whenever I need to trailer, the truck is no slouch. There are times just driving to and from work that I wish I had a higher gear to improve acceleration, but it absolutely isn't a deal breaker. I've hauled three cars in the piedmont of North Carolina, so some hills and some flat land, and it honestly pulls like a 3/4 ton. The truck is very smooth and acts like it likes to have a load behind it. Two of the cars were around 3,000 lbs, and the other was a 4,500 lb Mercury Marauder land yacht. The trailer I pull is every bit of 2,000 lbs empty, a 16' Hudson Equipment Trailer. I've also had 2 tons of brick chips on the trailer as well, so that would be 4 instances I've had 5,000-6,500 lbs behind the truck, and it does just fine. Don't get caught up with the hype of having to have the best of everything on the order sheet. Now, I'm not saying don't opt for a 3.42 or 3.73 truck, but if a great deal comes on a 3.08 like I got, don't be scared of the high ratio. If you occasionally pull like I do, and use the truck like a half ton is intended to be used (a homeowner/light duty truck for occasional hauling in my eyes) you'll be just fine. Hope that helps.
  15. Did you use the GM factory door harnesses to wire up those mirrors? I have the same ones and don’t want to go through the hassle of the hard wiring job.
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