casey.mikl

It is an LT with grey leather (not my first choice) but the interior it spotless. The driver seat is in amazing shape which is rare. I’m going to look at it this coming Sunday. The price I can get the truck for, I am able to sell mine and break even. So it will be a fair swap. Plus won’t have to worry about rust. I intend for repairs and such as well. One major thing I would like to change about it is the center fold seat. I prefer the full console like my 2011 has. The truck seems to be a very nice truck and the seller seems to be very honest.

So my 2011 I bought used and it was from New York. So it is rusty and it is an extended cab with the 6.0. I’m looking to go diesel as I do tow a lot and it is a crew cab instead of the extended cab. I need the extra room for the family. The truck is a 1 owner Florida truck. It’s rust free and spotless clean. It has been deleted and has a dsp5 switch. Was tuned with ez lynk. He also has the reciepts for all the work that was completed for the truck. Its an older man that owns it and he used it to commute for his business.

I currently have a 2011 2500hd with 6.0 that I am having some issues with. I’m looking at getting it fixed to sell it. Before I sell it, I’m looking at purchasing a 2007.5 LMM duramax that has rather high miles. The truck itself has 350k on it. It’s a 1 owner truck, used mainly to commute on the highway. The engine recently blew up and it was swapped with a 75k mile motor that was gone through with new gaskets and 30% over exergy injectors and a 65mm turbo was installed. The trans was also services and a trans go jr kit was installed in it. The truck is very clean and was taken care of. I don’t believe the trans has been rebuilt or replaced which has me a little leary. What are your thoughts? I will at max put a few thousand miles a year on it. When it gets driven it will be hooked to a trailer either with side by sides or boat or camper.

I’m going to get a set of o2 wire extensions and connect the passenger sensor to the driver side and swap them. That way I don’t have to remove the sensor. See if my issue changes sides or stays the same.

The weird thing is that the passenger side has a larger leak then the driver. But the driver side is what has the issue. As for the s1b1 sensor. I have replaced it 2 times and still have the old sensor. Never changed a thing. The low power reference wire is it supposed to be a 5 volt supply? I’m getting 2.9 volts and the other wire is only reading 0.4 volts. It’s the same on all 4 sensors. Also the exhaust leaks is the flange gasket. The manifolds are not leaking. I put anti seize on the bolt that fell out and put it back in.

It does have some exhaust leaks. Mainly on the passenger side. I removed the computer and used fiber optic wire cleaner and a brush and cleaned all the connections. Now it’s running good. But sensor one is flat lined at 1275.

It does have some exhaust leaks. Mainly on the passenger side. I removed the computer and used fiber optic wire cleaner and a brush and cleaned all the connections. Now it’s running good. But sensor one is flat lined at 1275.

Found some leaks. Both sides of the exhaust are leaking where the y pipe bolts to the manifolds. Had the trans rebuilt so the y pipe was removed. Also found the rear most manifold bolt on the passenger side totally backed out.

I am going to hook up the smoke tester to the exhaust and check for exhaust leaks.

I got a wiring diagram for the engine harness. I traced the wires to the o2 sensors and they are all fine. I get good solid ground and power to all of them. Bank 1 sensor 1 is holding stead at 1275. I believe that is my issue that’s throwing it all off between the 2 banks. The sensor is good. I took it for a drive and the sensor started reading about the same as all the others and it was fine and then shot back to 1275 and stayed flat. I’m wondering if I have a leaking exhaust manifold and it’s sucking air, thus making the sensor readings wrong.

I have replaced all 8 injectors. I have moved plugs between the 2 banks as well as coils and no change.

I’m not getting a code for the cats. I’m getting multiple misfire codes. When it misfires, it goes lean on bank one.

Yeah compression and spark is fine. I have not checked the injectors. When it’s in closed loop it misfires and runs terrible. When it’s in open loop it runs fine and has no issues. I have replaced maf, map, crank sensor, battery, all ground cables, injectors, plug wires, spark plugs, computer, o2 sensors upstream, cut out cats (starting to come apart). I’m going to take it to the dealer. I ran it today and running using the computer as ground I’m getting 14.6 volts. Also same on body and engine. I had a feeling it may have been a ground to ecu issue but it wasn’t.

Yeah I know. It’s about the last effort unless I change out the whole wire harness. I have literally replaced every other sensor. Or I am going to take it to the dealer and pay for the diag and see what they come back with. I’m about out of ideas at this point.

Also to update, I did replace the crank sensor. No change. I’m going to try to replace both downstream o2 sensors. The one on the driver side looks like a universal one that you use butt connectors on. Maybe the downstream one is throwing the upstream off or something? Not sure being hopeful at the moment. I’m running out of options. Trying to get the issue resolved so I can sell the truck to get a full 4 door duramax.

No I have not. I have replaced grounds and cleaned ground points but cannot find the issue. I’m leading towards a wire in the harness or possibly corrosion within a ground wire somewhere. It’s driving me crazy. Recently I’ve had service trailer brake system and trailer wiring. The trailer brake relay was recently replaced and is new. So with the misfire, and now these other issues popping up I’m going to say a ground wire. The trouble is finding which one. I’ve replaced the battery ground cable, rear head tires body ground (which was previously blue and fell apart) and cleaned frame grounds under driver door.

Okay. Little update if any one is able to help. I replaced the ground cable that was corroded. I checked for power and ground at all the sensors. When I use the sensor grounds, I get 8.70 volts with key on engine off. If I use the sensor positive and the ground of the motor, I get 12 volts. Where do the o2 sensors ground to? I have replaced the factory ground to the battery as well as firewall to rear head ground. Still no luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay I think I’m wrong. Guess GM moved them to the side of the block. When your under the truck. There appears to be one infront of the starter and one on the other side of the block. They look covered by a large silver thermal type cup to prevent damage or heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to go look at my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ones I’ve seen in the valley have a connector on top. I have not seen a knock sensor on the side of the block. And I have not had the intake off my 2011 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Under the intake in the middle of the valley Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I replaced the bad spark plug today, along with all of the wires, the body to motor ground, and cleaned the main engine ground. I did notice that the wiring inside of the loom is rather brittle and corroded. I will be replacing the main ground from the battery to the engine. Here are some of the graphs that the scanner is showing. What I’m noticing is that bank 1 (side that always misfiring) 01 sensor number 1 is not nearly as “sensitive” as bank 2 sensor 1. Also fuel trims between the 2 sides seem to be off as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t done the test with the water. I had a spark plug that burned out (it had maybe 1500 miles on it) and I had to order a new set of plug wires for it. I’m gonna replace the plug and put new wires in it. I’m going to replace both up stream 02 sensors as well with new bungs. The threads on bank 1 are messed up and the sensor doesn’t seat fully into the pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d suggest a slightly better skar sub. I have no experience with the IX series. The VD are great and the VVX is great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably wouldn’t be bad. The IX is the cheaper sub correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk