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casey.mikl

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Everything posted by casey.mikl

  1. Okay. Little update if any one is able to help. I replaced the ground cable that was corroded. I checked for power and ground at all the sensors. When I use the sensor grounds, I get 8.70 volts with key on engine off. If I use the sensor positive and the ground of the motor, I get 12 volts. Where do the o2 sensors ground to? I have replaced the factory ground to the battery as well as firewall to rear head ground. Still no luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Okay I think I’m wrong. Guess GM moved them to the side of the block. When your under the truck. There appears to be one infront of the starter and one on the other side of the block. They look covered by a large silver thermal type cup to prevent damage or heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The ones I’ve seen in the valley have a connector on top. I have not seen a knock sensor on the side of the block. And I have not had the intake off my 2011 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Under the intake in the middle of the valley Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I replaced the bad spark plug today, along with all of the wires, the body to motor ground, and cleaned the main engine ground. I did notice that the wiring inside of the loom is rather brittle and corroded. I will be replacing the main ground from the battery to the engine. Here are some of the graphs that the scanner is showing. What I’m noticing is that bank 1 (side that always misfiring) 01 sensor number 1 is not nearly as “sensitive” as bank 2 sensor 1. Also fuel trims between the 2 sides seem to be off as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I haven’t done the test with the water. I had a spark plug that burned out (it had maybe 1500 miles on it) and I had to order a new set of plug wires for it. I’m gonna replace the plug and put new wires in it. I’m going to replace both up stream 02 sensors as well with new bungs. The threads on bank 1 are messed up and the sensor doesn’t seat fully into the pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I’d suggest a slightly better skar sub. I have no experience with the IX series. The VD are great and the VVX is great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Probably wouldn’t be bad. The IX is the cheaper sub correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Only run skar subs. For the money can’t beat them. I have VD10s in my truck. VVX10s in Charger and other truck has the SVR10s. My tahoe has 1 Sundown SA10 and I love it too but for the money skar can’t be beat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. There’s 2 upstream of the cats and 2 downstream of the cats. So 4 in total Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. My 2011 I was able to remove the pan with exhaust intact. I didn’t have to pry anything the pan was able to slide out with a little wiggling. Prepare for the mess. I wish these things had drain plugs like the Allison’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I’ll have to try the spray on the sensor as that seems a little easier and safer. It will backfire through the intake under load. No load at idle it back fires out the tail pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I was thinking possibly crank sensor or cam sensor but what doesn’t make sense to me is that it is only misfiring on bank 1 and not bank 2. And that it is fattening up bank 1 and lean out bank 2. Atleast the pulse width for the injectors is showing off on each bank. When it runs fine they are equal. If not they are off by a lot. Like 3.5-4.0 and 1.5-2.0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I have a 2011 Chevy 2500hd with 6.0. The truck has developed a misfire at idle and partially on the gas. I have replaced all the spark plugs, all 8 injectors, moved coil packs around, replaced MAF, MAP, b1s1 02 sensor (was getting codes for that sensor only), ECU, fresh gas and added cleaners, cleaned throttle body and swapped throttle body, had cats removed (already were blown out and empty) Nothing has solved the issue. Only bank 1 is misfiring. Mainly cyl 1 and 3. The truck backfires out the exhaust, and under load back fires out the intake. It will clear up like a switch flipped and run fine until the truck is shut off and restarted. I’m at a complete loss. By watching the snap on scanner. It appears as if it’s richen bank 1 and lean bank 2. I’m at a complete loss. It’s happening at idle and slightly off idle until it decides to clear up. I have been getting codes for random misfire and bank 1 sensor 1 02 sensor for heater issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Need to see if there is any codes stored. Could be various different things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Pull the plugs and see if they are oily. Probably starting to burn oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Maybe can replace it with a switch that doesn’t have the auto option. Not really sure If tha would work or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. The off portion can be used when the truck is turned on. You can switch it down to off and they will stay off until you turn the knob back down and they will go back to auto. My 2011 is the same way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS04/Metra-GMOS-04-Wiring-Interface.html Get an adaptor harness like this. Don’t cut the factory harness. I don’t know what options your truck has. Look on there and select the appropriate options. If you don’t use the right harness you will loose door chimes and turn signal chimes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Fuses, main wiring harness at the rear of the truck. Should be under tail gate behind the bumper. Connects main harness to the tail light harness. Make sure connection is good and clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Stuck down? Probably need a new switch. If it’s on the shift lever. You will probably need to change whole lever Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I would probably not do a flush, but I would drain it all out and add new fluid. When I did mine before I had the trans rebuilt. I disconnected 1 side of the cooler (passenger side) and put a pipe over it. Started the truck and pumped the old out and added new in. Probably not the best to do. But it worked for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Change the trans fluid and filter. The transfer case takes the same fluid as the trans. Dextron 6. The 6L90 is a great transmission. I got 100k out of mine before it needed to be rebuilt. The torque converter went bad and sent metal throughout the transmission. Change the diff fluids with the correct weight gear oil and regular oil changes. I used 5-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. I go off of the trucks oil life in the cluster. I drive mine maybe 5k a year and almost every time it’s hauling a load. The 6.0 is a great motor. Makes great power. My truck has a K&N Intake (was on it when I bought it) plus side is the cleanable filter. A tuner would help out a little with power and fuel economy. If it is an extended cab 2500HD (not sure if they had it in 2008 but they did in 2011) the center link for the steering will have a rubber bushing in the pitman arm. You can get a non isolated center link and pitman arm off a 3500hd and it will bolt right in. Mine had it and the bushing was shot causing a lot of play. The non isolated model has more feel in the steering wheel. But no bushing to go bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I would assume the blower resister is probably bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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