casey.mikl

If the brakes are not hot but the wheel is. My guess would be a wheel bearing issue. Jack the truck up and check for play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t seen any fluid. I loosened the master up yesterday. I’m thinking it’s the master sticking and not fully retracting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The master and hydro has been on the truck since I bought it 2 years ago. Trucks been fine till recently. Truck has been sitting a lot lately as I don’t really drive it anymore except for out of town or when tow camper and such. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 2011 2500hd has developed a braking issue. When the brakes are applied sometimes, the pedal gets extremely firm and the brakes will drag. When the brakes do release you can hear and feel the pedal release and the truck jolt forward. The calipers are all recently new and the gearbox is new. The master was replaced prior to me purchasing it. No leaks of any kind. When the brakes stick, you can’t drive the truck over 30-40mph without it shaking and heating the trans up. I’m thinking it’s a push rod issue between the hydro and the master. When the brakes do lock up. Pulling the brake pedal backwards doesn’t do anything nor release the brakes. Also, I’ve used a temp gauge and all 4 calipers and rotors are around the same general temp when it happens. Which is leading me to the master and hydroboost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Nitto terra grapplers, Cooper at3, basically most all terrains should get you by Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fords (atleast the old ones) had a sensor and were designed that if it hit a specific pressure it would show “normal” on the gauge and not fluctuate with rpm. Where the Chevy is a full gauge and not just an idiot light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep normal. Warmed up mine is about 20-30 and will go up to 60 plus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crawl under and look at the input shaft and output shaft while someone turns it slightly. See if it appears as if the output shaft is spinning with the input shaft, or if the input shaft spins without the output moving. There is an adjustment and it can be tightened. But if it is over tightened you can wear the bearings and internals premature. There is supposed to be some play in the box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine has a similar issue, the converter is delaminating and sending metal all through the trans and pump. Needless to say I took it to a trans shop and it’s going to need a new converter, new pump and bell housing as well as total rebuild. $3000.. lovely 6l90. I changed the fluid and filter and it helped some but it’s not right. As yours is as well, it started out of no where, never had previous issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know about cleaning them. There may be something. But you have to throw power to them I believe to manipulate the valve inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It could be lean from a fuel injector that’s clogged or not flowing correctly. I would change fuel filter and run some injector cleaner through it. If not, replace injectors or have them cleaned. Just an exhaust won’t make the truck go lean. And if it did go lean, it wouldn’t be just 2 cyl. It would be all of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Changed filter and got out about 8 quarts or so of trans fluid. Refilled it and took it for a drive. Still shifts like it did. At about 55mph I got a loud screeching sound like metal to metal. Got that a couple of times. And I brake torqued it in the drive way and something slipped and got a big smoke show. So looks like it will be going away for a new transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 2011 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 4x4 with 6L90 transmission. Truck has 102k miles on it. Within the last 50 miles the truck has developed a shifting issue. The truck was dyno tuned prior to my owning of it. 1st to 2nd shift has always been firm and the occasional firm shift into 3rd. It has started to slip when going into reverse and into drive. When the fluid is cold, it shifts and works fine. When it’s warm, it shifts weird and when going into reverse or drive, there is a delay and it will not go into gear unless you bring the rpm up to about 1500-1700 rpm. While driving, 2-3 and on shifts feel like you let off the gas for a short period and then it bangs into next gear causing the truck to jerk. It has a few times downshifted when I got into the gas and the rpm went up but the truck did not gain any speed. I have owned it for the last 20k miles and I have not changed the trans fluid or filter. The fluid is dark, but not burnt or does not smell. Tomorrow I am planning to change the fluid (3 gallons, going to use 2 jugs and attach hoses to cooler lines so that it sucks new fluid in and spits out the old fluid) and change the trans filter. I did add 1 pint of sea foam trans tune into the trans and took it for about a 7 mile ride, making sure it shifted though all the gears various times to work the fluid through the trans. Since the trans has started to act up, I have stopped driving it to avoid damage to the transmission. I believe it possibly has a torque converter issue, as the gears don’t feel as if they are slipping. I’m really hoping it’s a fluid issue and new fluid and filter will fix it. When I had the snapon scanner hooked to it, it did say ATF life 9%. Would anyone be able to shed some light on this maybe and be able to help me out? I’m also looking at changing the transfer case fluid as well while I’m at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s electronic so I don’t know how it would be turned back. If they hook their computer to it, they will be able to see the mileage from the ecu to verify odometer reading. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk