I'm reviving an old thread here. Found this thread looking for coilovers for my '15 Sierra. 2”-3” front drop is probably about right for me. Thinking I need about 4”-5” in the rear to level the truck out. What would you recommend for the rear? Would love to have double adjustable components at both ends. Also not sure I want to go with a full flip kit. Any thoughts?
@Grumpy Bear How does your truck Perform in Death Valley in the summer? What about Winnipeg in the winter? How about Miami in the spring? Have you towed a trailer in those areas? What's your data on SAE J2807 test? Do you have any reliability readings on an 80% loaded quad cab 4x4 over 100k miles of east coast driving? Weird......I don't either. Honestly, we're having an unarmed battle of data here. NEITHER OF US, knows exactly what it's supposed to do (as the engineers designed it, the programmers coded it, or the testers reported it) at any level of confidence. Unless we distill it so far as to say "make the truck move forward" we're picking the fly poop out of pepper. Because we simply do not know. You have only a few data points from one region. You simply DO NOT have the data set to make those assertions as facts. They are opinions based on anecdotal evidence. I would take the Pepsi challenge with your data vs GM's data every day and twice on Sunday. Talk about Dispersing FUD, your claims are based on opinion, NOT FACTS. You in fact do deal in FUD sir. Since anecdotal evidence is what you seem to like. My transmission DOES NOT work properly when it's cold. Shifts are firmer, and faster. Properly is VERY subjective, and you can't even pin that down with data. At this point I'm clearly not going to change your mind, and honestly don't really care. I just hope others consider the fact that both of us are dispensing opinions that are worth about as much as the electrons that display them.
There is an aspect that nobody has touched on yet.......Consistency. Trans temps just under the operating limit of the fluid, with adequate reserve cooling provide the most consistency you can get, with the least amount of viscosity possible. It's likely the best compromise available so that the same configuration can be run in Miami, and Anchorage year round. It might not be the BEST solution for either of those climates, but it's the best compromise between the two when all aspects are considered. The transmission shifts WILL change with fluid temperature changes. There are internal passageways that allow that fluid to move from place to place and apply or release clutches that change the gear ratios. If this fluid is consistently at the same temperature, then the control algorithms that maintain pressure, actuate clutches, and route fluid don't have to make as much of an adjustment, and the programming can be more easily defined, and subsequently result in better and more consistent performance to the user. IMO, If you aren't overheating the transmission fluid (200deg +) for extended periods of time, there is ZERO benefit to cooling it any further, or messing with the system at any level. You are doing the modification for the sole purpose of making yourself feel better about the temp reading you're seeing. Excessive heat kills a transmission. Read that again. Excessive is the operative word there, and 192deg (88deg C) is not excessive. Combined with NOT changing shift parameters (such as clutch slip timing, shift timing, line pressures, etc) you are messing with a VERY well tested formula that we only have anecdotal evidence on. Remove it at your own risk, if your transmission fails under warranty, and this is found during tear down, I would bet they'll deny you coverage, and with good reason. They can't warranty against all possible modifications, and we can all agree fluid temp is an important parameter to transmission life, regardless of where you fall on the temperature spectrum. You messed with a proven formula, and you only have some guys on a message board as backup for that decision. A few guys on a message board does not an engineering team make, and I'm certain more than a few people looked at the system overall at GM and made the decision to include the thermostat. Maybe it was an accounting thing, maybe it was a legal thing, Maybe the mechanical guys put it there to make the programming guys life easier. Maybe the design was so far down the path that it would have cost more to remove it than to keep it. We don't know.
This is the advice we all need here. Not doing this, and claiming ASE Master Tech in the same post just throws red flags all over the OP's story IMO. I'm an ASE anything. Been a "car guy" since before I had my license though. AN 3rd party inspection costs $100-$150, and they will inspect whatever you want them to, as well as a "standard" list of stuff. A list I would expect anyone with the credentials of ASE Master Tech to be able to put together quickly and easily. Having bought multiple cars from out of state, and even imported one from Canada, an independent inspection is imperative to know what you're walking into, especially if the delivery is 3.5hrs from home. At any point in the process if a dealer can't or won't provide that information and coordination, I walk. Of course I don't beat them up for every single penny either, so it makes it worth their time. To answer OP's question. If there was a CPO warranty in place. Take it to the nearest dealer and ask to have the issues covered under that warranty. Get a denial, then start walking it up the ladder. For me, probably more hassle than it's worth for something like pads and rotors, and new tires. That's a Saturday mornings worth of work to change those out in the garage, and then a drop off at the tire shop to have new treads mounted and balanced. Lesson learned IMO.
Awesome. Thanks for the info. Definitely going to strip the emblems, and door trim off as soon as it warms up. Have to keep my eyes peeled for a new grill, and some wrap for the bumpers. have a buddy that does powdercoating, might reach out to him and see if he can handle the bumper.
Love the front end change there. The general "dechroming" effect is great. Did you buy new parts, paint existing or what? I have the "same" truck (color/wheels/year/etc) and have been looking into this exact same mod path.
For us.....tow behind camper, and driveable camper is out. Have a boat to take with us that is the primary objective. It's either tent camper, Roof Top Tent, or Slide in for us. If we get a slide in, we'll take it out of the truck for the weekend at the campground. Leaving the truck to launch/retrieve the boat and run around. Leaning hard towards a Roof Top Tent due to cost/complexity and payload issues with the 1500 pickup. We'll see how that shakes out though. Gotta get out of lock-down before we can do anything at this rate.
Dodge gave up and went coils awhile back. Ferd still has the metal sticks though. Read a story years ago.....like early '00's.....was a review on the big 3's latest pickups. The comment that stuck with me was that the Ford rode the best unloaded and the GM rode the best loaded. Ram was consistently in the middle. Seems like it still holds true. My truck does ride considerably better when loaded, either cargo or trailer.
Agreed. I have the 5100's and Load Range D KO2's on my 2015 quad-cab short bed 1500 Sierra The 5100's were NOT an upgrade from the Ranchos that came on the truck. They are over damped on high shaft speed (square edge bumps), and on the edge of under damped for low shaft speed (large whoops and dips) conditions. VERY similar to the Ranchos as best I can tell. They're silver and look nice, so I guess that's worth something. The KO2's are HEAVY tires with STIFF sidewalls. They are both too heavy (unsprung weight) for the shocks to accurately control, and too stiff to give the ride any compliance, or feeling of comfort. I'll be moving to Continentals this fall (even derated "P" tires will carry enough load to exceed the axle ratings of the truck). If that doesn't smooth the ride a bit, then I'll be donating the 5100's to whomever wants them, and going with some sort of adjustable coilover/bagover setup. I get it's a truck, it's not supposed to ride like luxury comfort sedan, but WOW is the ride bad in this configuration.
Yeap, the wheels are great. I think I like those better than the 22in snowflakes on the Denalis. I've got the very popular 20in 12spoke chromes. I really like 'em, and fortunately not that popular in my area. Love the debadging as well. I've been on the fence about that with mine, but couldn't commit. I think this weekend the 'ol girl will get debadge and scrubbed down pretty good.
@D_Spin Thanks for the update. I'm about |...| that close to needing new tires, and these are on the top of my list currently. I'll be getting a 275/55/20 size, but otherwise same tire. I've run Continentals on everything I've owned for year. From a Mazda RX8, to an Audi A4, to my Wifes Traverse. Hell, I've even got a pair of Conti's on my bicycle. They've always been exceptional quality, and great performers. I was a little concerned about this being the first A/T tire they've made, but I've yet to hear a bad review about them. I'll be sure to report back in when I end up with a set on my truck.
Local dealer here still has (7) brand new 2018 Denalis on the lot. I suspect a LOT of people are looking at those, and then looking at a new one and realizing the '18's aren't discounted enough to make the deal worthwhile. Currently discounted ~$12k or so. They hit anywhere under $50k, and I'll consider picking one up. About another $6-7k to go!
I don't have much help for you on where to grab a constant hot (although I agree with the premise and think it's a great idea). I'm just curious which slide in you're running on a 1500. Wife and I have been looking for a 1/2ton acceptable slide in for awhile. Any thoughts?
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