I think this is more my problem than the shocks. I'm running 275/55/20's in a D Load Range. I'm considering adding a little sidewall and moving to a 275/60/20 and dropping back to a P rated tire. The towing I do isn't even close to the ratings on this truck (axle, hitch, or tire), and I don't need the 8-10ply sidewalls for any other reason. Again, love the look though!
For stock replacements you are exactly correct. They are not a high premium over factory replacements. They do look really nice under there compared to the Ranchos! I should honestly have been more clear. It's not just hte performance of the Bilsteins, it was the misconception of how bad the Ranchos were, and how they are complete junk. Really, they're just fine if they're working. Mine were working fine, but I bought into the "they're junk" campaign, and at 75k miles figured surely they had failed......not so much for me.
Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'm in a similar use case. 75-80% on road, highway miles. When I am offroad it's rarely more aggressive than a muddy field, some medium sized gravel, or similar double-track type situation. I really got the 4wd for the slick boat ramps we get around here from time to time. Otherwise I have no real need for it. I do tow quite a bit, so I have to keep an eye on load ratings, however so long as I'm above the axle weight rating then the tires won't be the limiting factor for me, and it becomes a moot point. Love the look of my KO2's, but have honestly used thier off-road capability about 3 times in two years. And two of those, I was juts goofing around and didn't "NEED" the capability. The other time was leading electrical lineman through fields and streams to find the single downed line. They were from out of town, and I knew the land well so I was able to guide them right along the lines to assist. They had giant F450's and Mac sized trucks that wouldn't fit in that space, or have the traction to get in/out without a hassle. All they needed was an inspection, not a repair so it worked out well. Would like to keep that capability, but it doesn't make sense for my daily activities. I could've easily borrowed the neighbors side-by-side and done the same thing.
Interesting. Wonder if one of the guys that has tuning software can compare the DFCO tables between the 6.2 and the 5.3 to see if there are any noticeable differences there. If nothing else might give some insight into how it's supposed to work so you can check against real world usage to tell if there is a problem or not. I don't have HPTuners anymore (although I've been considering getting a license again) or I would check myself.
Certainly would've been a smaller waste of money than the $350 I spent on these Bilsteins. Honestly I should have known better. I've tried Bilsteins 3 times now and have yet to be happy with the results. Internet forum members rave about how great they are, and honestly they've all been over rated. This just happens to be one of the worst cases of that I've fallen into. Hell even my neighbhor said he put the 5100's on his Titan and just loved the way they changed the truck. Nobodies fault but my own, just trying to make sure the counterpoint is heard as well. They aren't the silver bullet they're made out to be. Both the Ranchos and the Bilsteins are over damped on high speed (shaft speed not vehicle speed), and under damped on low speed movements. Square edged bumps like expansion joints and large gravel should have the suspension moving quite a bit, while more gradual bumps/rises should be slowed significantly more. Right now you hit an expansion joint and get a jolt to the seat/steering wheel, then are followed with a slow "wave" of a bounce as the truck rises and falls. It's not uncontrolled, but the damping could use some serious tuning revisions in either of the shocks. I'll most likely drive on these until they start leaking though. Not going to continue to throw money at it to test if this shock or the other shock is better or worse. These aren't the worst shock I've ever driven on. Maybe new tires will help?
Almost read my mind. I have KO2's on there now and will NOT be buying another set. They're far to stiff, heavy and slippery for my liking. Tons of capability off the pavement, and they look amazing. The ride, noise, and weight aren't worth it though.
I just replaced my factory Ranchos at 75k with Bilstien 5100's.........What a horrible waste of money that was. Truck rides almost EXACTLY the same between the two. Wsa hoping for a more controlled experience, less "nervousness" over expansion joints, and the like.....NOPE.....they're just about the same as the Rancho's I took off. Aside from the rust there were no outward signs of failure on mine. Once off, they clearly hadn't failed at all and were still relatively difficult to compress throughout the range of motion. Don't believe everything you read on the forums. If there isn't obvious signs of failure (as in OP's first picture) then they are probably still working just fine.
How are you detecting DFCO? The only way I can tell in my '15 5.3 is by watching the instant fuel economy if it spikes to 99, then I know the ECM has turned off the injectors. Otherwise it is completely unnoticable to me.
Theoretically it does help with MPG. When at zero throttle and maintaining speed the ECM turns off the injectors, so you get a theoretical infinite miles per gallon. The more time you spend travelling without using fuel the better average mpg you get. used to be called Decel Fuel Cutoff (DFCO), not sure if it still works under the same name in the newer ECM's.........However it does this regardless of grade braking active or not.
Why do you want to disable it? Is it just annoying? Do you think you'll damage the engine? Something new and different that you've never needed in the past so by god you don't need it now? The engine will take the revs just fine. It's providing safety margin over your existing brake setup under a heavy load. I use it often (long down grade towing our boat), and find it works well, so I'm curious whats annoying about it?
If she's chewing through tires, have a good hard look at the control arms. My Audi would chew through the fronts in a few months time without a heavy rotation schedule. Once I replaced the front control arms (There are 4 per side on that car) with some good quality Moog components, the alignment came right back into spec, stayed there, and the tire wear problems went away. I ran those DWS tires on my A4, and my RX8. Both with excellent results. Was going to swap them onto my Focus, but traded it away before it used the stock tires up (I might or might not have had a car trading problem for awhile :D)
@Cupton @MaverickZ71 Thanks for the comments. I've been a Continental fan for years. Run them on everything I own (including my bicycle) that they make a size/type for. That's the only reason I even looked at them, such great experiences with other tires from the same brand. For some reason you don't see many people running them in the light truck arena. Wonder if it's a marketing thing, general brand awareness, or if they are just good tires and not great tires? Price doesn't seem to be a stumbling block as they are a shade less expensive than the BFG KO2's I'm running now. Looks like around $800 for the tires (plus shipping/mounting/balancing). Who knows. If you have a passenger car, I can't recommend the Extreme Contact DWS highly enough. Those are EXCELLENT tires. Made my Audi A4 drive like a tank in the snow, and a Ferrari in the dry. Very capable tire that lasted almost 60k miles.
My '15 GMC CC SLT Plus w/Z71 package (bought used) came with a brand new set of KO2's. I've got about 36k miles on them now, and they are about 1/2 worn. They have traction like tank treads in everything EXCEPT a light drizzle, then they don't grip hardly at all. They are 8-ply, D-Load Range tires. I run them at 45psi, which is a bit under the 65psi max cold. They ride overly harsh for my usage, and are noticeably heavy. I drive ~95% on-road, and of that on-road time about 40% is towing a 4k lb boat with the family and gear. I'll be moving back to a P-Tire when these go. You can find a 275/55/20 with enough capacity to de-rate it 75% for heavy usage, and still have more capacity than the trucks Gross Axle Weight Rating. I'm looking for something a little lighter to help with fuel mileage, and something with a little softer sidewall to help with comfort on the commute. Hopefully the towing stability won't suffer terribly. Have my eye on a set of Continental Terrain Contact A/T's. Still has a little bit of the look of an A/T tire (that I really like), but are still P-Rated with softer sidewalls and lower pressures.
Been a GM fan for awhile. My first new car was a '00 S10 that lasted me to 250k miles or so. Wifes first new car was a '99 Grand Am. We sold it a few years ago with 310k miles on it. had an '03 Yukon, '04 S10 CC ZR5, '06 TBSS, and a '10 Traverse in there as well. Other cars we've had include an '06 Audi A4, '05 Mazda RX8, '12 Ford Focus, and then some beater/project cars (FC RX7's, E30 BMW's, and a Jeep for about 3 days). GM has consistently ridden the best balance between reliability, serviceability, and cost. You get a large value in a GM. Total cost of ownership is relatively low when fuel, insurance, maintenance, and repairs are all accounted for. They look nice, run well, and are easy to work on when they do break. Our Audi was a VERY close second to the GM. It broke half as often, but cost twice as much to fix. It also typically required more specialized tools, a closer look at the service manual, and a little poking around to find the replacement parts. It gave us 185k miles of good service. If Audi made a pickup I probably would have bought that instead of my GMC. If I move back to an SUV, it'll probably be another Audi. When buying this particular truck I was torn between a pickup and an SUV. I was trading in my '06 Trailblazer SS. I was torn between the '15 GMC SLT Premium Plus I bought, or a nice '15 Durango R/T. Went with the pickup as an attempt to curb some of my speeding and aggressive driving habits. I've also ALWAYS driven lowered/modified vehicles, and was ready to just "drive" something instead of working on it/playing with it. With two small boys, a wife, a house, and a boat, the car hobby needed to cool off for awhile and the pickup showed the least amount of interest in modding/changing/playing with, so I got it. So Far so good. October will be 2yrs with this truck, and I'm sneaking up on 40k miles of driving in it already. It's treated me pretty well, has great features, is comfy to drive, and works like a swiss army knife for me, doing a little bit of everything/anything I need it to. Hoping I can keep this one another 7yrs and had it to my oldest as his first car. We'll see how that pans out though.
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