agraves138

So yesterday I leave work radio works find, using carplay to talk on the phone. I get to a dinner stop, to meet a client and all is well. Leave dinner and get in the truck to head home, and the screen on the radio doesn't come on. I can hear the speakers, but the controls knobs on the radio do nothing either. However the screen in the gauges works perfectly and I can change stations and raise and lower the volume as per normal. So the radio features appear to be working however the head unit screen and controls are DOA. I have removed the radio fuse on the passenger side. Checked the fuse after a few mins, no change in condition. Replaced the fuse just in chase, still no change. I have disconnected the blue connector at the HMI module and reconnected, no change in condition. I have wiggled the blue connector cable on the HMI side, still no change, screen doesn't even flicker. I have disassembled the center dash and removed the radio/bezel disconnected connectors from the screen/controls, still no change, screen doesn't even flicker. At this point I'm unsure if the defect is in the HMI or in the Radio Unit itself and was looking for some advise from the group to see if anyone has this experience or input.

Good evening all, 2016 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L Allison Trans. 59K miles For a while I've noticed that sometimes (not always) there is a noise that can be heard from inside the cab when the transmission shifts gears. Best way I can describe it is a "clank or tick" type noise. I generally happens when the truck is either under load such as going up an incline, or if I accelerate a bit harder than normal, usually I'll notice in the 2-3 shift, but somethings also in the 1-2 shift. The transmission doesn't shift late, or even hard, but it makes this audible noise, and it can even be slightly felt through the truck when it does occur. In hoping to solve the issue: I recently had the dealer perform a transmission service (fluid, inner and external filter). Noise still present. I recently changed the front differential fluid. Noise still present. I recently changed the rear differential fluid. Noise still present. Next up I'll be doing the transfer case fluid. Checked the U-joints, and I don't seem to find play or excessive play in the shafts/joints. May a tiny bit in the front drive shaft where it comes out of the transfer case, but even that seems minimal. Is anyone else experiencing this? Is this normal for the Allison/Duramax? This is my first diesel, so maybe it's just something I'm not used to. But if it is an issue I'd like to fix it early. Thanks! - Ant

Just checked, they also don't show any LED Bulbs recommended for our trucks. I'm concerned that while I can just order a set of H11 bulbs, they won't warranty these them if there are any issues if the bulbs go out since they don't show as a recommended option for this truck. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/buyer-guide-by-vehicle/2016+Chevrolet+Silverado_2500_HD

Good morning all, Firstly please pardon my ignorance if this has been addressed, I've been researching but haven't really found answers I'm looking for. I recently upgraded from a 2015 1500 LT to a 2016 2500HD LTZ 6.6L. I immediately noted the factory lighting on these trucks is not very good. Living in the Texas Hill Country it gets pretty dark out here, and I'm heading to work in the dark and find myself driving home more and more in the dark. So I need to upgrade my lighting, specifically my low beams, though I'm open to a kit that upgrades Lows/Highs/Fogs. With all that said, I'm noticing that most companies (Headlight Revolution, GTR Lighting, etc...) don't show an LED Bulb replacement option for the factory lows. Is there a reason why? Have we identified a LED Plug n play LED Bulb for these trucks that allows us to still use the dust covers? What bulbs/brands do you guys recommend? I had SV4's on my 1500 and loved the brightness, but had to replace at least 3-4 bulbs due to burn out.

Hey all, I just received my complete set of 5100's for my 2015 Silverado 1500 LT. I'm looking to level the front with the back using only the adjustments on the front struts (leaving the stock blocks, etc...). Presently the struts are on the stock setting (1 of 4 notches). My question is, which notch should I set the circlip on, to get the front level with the back? My truck is mainly a city driver, so I'm not worried about nose lift when towing and such. Just want the nose level with the rear during my city driving. Your help is appreciated. Notch 1 - Stock Notch 2 - 0.75" (19mm) Average Lift Notch 3 - 1.26" (32mm) Average Lift Notch 4 - 1.85" (46mm) Average Lift Thanks, Ant