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PrairieGM

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About PrairieGM

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  1. Just our of curiosity, how would a hybrid power train perform without using batteries? Where you run an engine for electrical generation and use electric motors at the wheels like a diesel-electric train?
  2. Hope this helps, and anyone else please chime with corrections and/or more info. 2WD is the main day to day mode that should be used on good traction surfaces. Best fuel economy and least wear on components. 4 Auto is more for inconsistent/patchy conditions, such as patchy ice on roads. Transfer case will automatically switch between 2WD and 4HI based on wheel slip. Personally, I never really used this mode on my old pickup. 4 High is for rougher conditions, deep snow, etc. but allows you to still run at higher speeds. Transfer case will be locked in 4HI. I use this the majority of the time, especially during winter but still is useful in off road settings. Should not be used with high traction as turning will cause the system to bind and eventually prematurely fail. 4 Low is low range on the transfer case. Transfer case will be locked in 4LO, must be basically stopped and transmission in neutral to shift into it. Meant for really rugged conditions and/or where low speed control is needed. Increased torque but limited top end speed. People use it for off-road situations, such as rock climbing, I mainly used it in fields while dragging trailers. Again, should not be used with high traction.
  3. I have limited experience compared to a lot of members here, so take that into consideration with the following. I drove my used ‘99 GMC 1500 5.3 4 speed for awhile, and overall it was reliable pickup that did what I asked. Only really weird thing was the transfer case rubbed a hole which was fixed. Other problems were mainly due to salt, rust, and age (eg. brakes, body) which were really killing the truck sadly. Usually averaged ~14 MPG overall. Otherwise it ran really well and pulled what I needed. My old boss had a loaner for awhile, a ‘17 Chevy 1500 5.3 8 speed. It ran smooth and was fast, but can’t say on reliability due to short time frame he had it. During school they had a 2011? Dodge 2500 5.7. Again ran well, was dependable but rode somewhat harsh unloaded. Pulled the school skid steer well, didn’t squat too bad with that Deere 240. It did squat pretty bad with a Bobcat T770 and a tree spade they rented but that’s pretty heavy. Sucked trying to back trailers since it was a crew cab long box. Also the bed sat pretty high so It was kinda tough to reach over the sides, but it still was a good pickup. Probably averaged ~11 MPG, but it got driven with a lead foot by everyone. My dad went from a ‘92 K1500 5.7 to a new 2010 Dodge 1500 5.7. He really liked the truck for sure, and I’m actually driving that one now. I’ve noticed it has plenty of power, pulls hard and has good braking. He usually averaged ~16 MPG. Few minor items here and there, but nothing major that caused any downtime in ~150,000 miles. He now upgraded into a 2020 Dodge 1500 and so far loves it. All our pickups (except the 2020 yet) were daily’s with occasional pulling a utility trailer mainly of hay or a skid steer, etc., random hauling. Honestly I think they all make a pretty decent pickup that all may have issues, so buy what you like/need.
  4. Lots of good stuff already mentioned. Here's what I keep in my extended cab: Jumper cables, spare towel, hand tools (just two of those Craftsman kits), tow strap, pocket knife; hat, gloves, bibs for winter live in cab. Other miscellaneous items (eg. hitch, grease, shotgun, etc.) all ride in cab. Keep spare oil, brake fluid, coolant, WD40, 5 gallon buckets, small carry toolbox, old work boots, other fluids, etc. in the bed. Hope this helps and thanks guys, you all reminded me that my tow strap is broken actually ha.
  5. Man you have a nice, clean, pickup there! I don't know what you use it for, but with the high mileage I wouldn't worry too much. You seem like you take care of you're equipment, which helps immensely. The 5.3's are great and are a dime a dozen, can't imagine they'd be too expensive to overhaul or swap. Wish we didn't have salt so mine would look like that! Just coming up on 200k and the body is really letting go unfortunately.
  6. Thanks all for the help. Looks like next will be the gaskets to replace. I'll try to give an update if that did the trick, but it'll be awhile. Need to get the parts around and to a place I can work on out of the wind, but hopefully should do it.
  7. Update: Ok, had some time and got some brake clean. Truck wasn't surging but the fuel trims were still out of whack. When I sprayed near the intake manifold, basically where the injectors are and where the manifold meets the head, I was able to get about a 20% drop towards normal on the fuel trims. Spraying the PCV line didn't affect it at all. I'm leaning towards the intake gaskets being shot?
  8. Yeah that's true, don't know unless you give it a shot, thanks again. Well I'll try spraying again this weekend with the scanner, make work with what I have and see what I can come up with
  9. Oh gotcha makes sense thanks for that. Haha honestly that stuff would probably be over my head anyways, I'm just a DIYer not a mechanic like my brother
  10. Would you mind clarifying a bit I got a little confused? Those are various modes counting misfires and my scanner can't read them correct?
  11. Ok I'll try that again but with the code reader on when I get a chance. Anyone have any idea what the $07 and $0C codes are? Those are the last two pictures on the original post
  12. For clarification I checked and yes the MAF was a Delphi unit That's what I'm concerned with too, since it's trying to compensate so much. I checked while driving and above about 1500RPM the short term fuel trims would be ~14% or less. I'll have to try the spray trick again, I tried before with ether and couldn't find anything. However, I was just listening, I wasn't watching the scanner. Thanks again, if you guys have anymore suggestions, I'd really appreciate that
  13. Ah makes sense. Thank you Here's the other screens from that first startup. MAF I'll check but if I remember it was a Delco or Delphi
  14. Did check fuel pressure awhile back, held around 60 PSI if I remember (Sorry been awhile since tested). What are ISD and/or ISC motor? Do I have a TPS, this is a '99 still with a cable actuated throttle
  15. Hi all, I've been troubleshooting a engine surge for awhile now that only occurs during winter, usually below 0. It's a 5.3L, occurs during the cold at idle. Above 1500ish RPM it smooths out and runs fine. Does it usually on the first start of the day. If I shutoff and let it sit awhile, it'll start without surging, but after awhile it generally starts to do so, usually at operating temps. It's intermittent, so been frustrating. I've already replaced MAF, fuel filter, and PCV over time. I had some spare time and rescanned it again today since it was doing it again. Still unsure, been talking it back and forth with dad scratching our heads. I've seen on here people mention intake gaskets? I already tried spraying them with ether but couldn't get a noticeable effect? Could it be that, or the fuel regulator, or some other sensor? I'll try attaching some pictures from my scanner (Creader brand, don't know if that helps). Codes: 171/174 (lean banks) which are what I've been focused on, the goofy ones were $07 Fail and $0C Fail, I don't know what those are? Thanks for the help, I can try to clarify if the above didn't make sense. adfadfdsfafdafdad
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