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chris.luurtsema

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Everything posted by chris.luurtsema

  1. I just did my front and rear diff. I used Mobil 1 delvac 75w-90. It is important to get the delvac and not just mobil 1 75w-90. The delvac does not have the LS additive. Cheapest I found was at summit racing, 32.99 for a gallon container. I bought other items so I qualified for free shipping. I ended having to buy an extra quart as 4 quarts was just not enough need about 60% of the final quart to top both off. I have a 5.3 with as I recall the middle size of rear end ratio. Here is a pic of the gear oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I bought the 5 gallon bucket of fluid film and the kelsport spray gun. I undercoat all my winter vehicles (4) every year and I usually get two years out of a 5 gallon bucket. Stuff smells like dirty scrotum, but my frame has no rust!!! My braklines have not rust. I plan on having my truck for atleast 10 more years. Long after the warranty will dry up. I also pressure wash my vehicles at minimum bi-weekly even in the deep winter. I have had no issue with the water damaging the frame wax with ff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. When I bought my truck in Apr 2015 I was warned about using FF as it would void my warranty... SMH who cares about my frame warranty when the fix from the dealership is to just spray nox-rust over the existing rust. I have fluid filmed my truck in the summer and late fall every year since and touch up bare spots with Nox-Rust. It does soften the wax. I will not deny this. But the wax was already soft thin and crappy from the factory. The high "spray" areas are prone to wearing the ft away and I will touch these up a few times in the winter. Overall if you look at my frame and park it next to any other 2015 in new hampshire you will see a shiny greasy soft wax coated frame on my truck, and a rusted nasty looking frame on another. I suppose it's a good thing that driver protected there factory warranty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. So let me see if I am understanding this correctly. Let's just say the filter "fresh" is designed for 60 psi of continuous flow. If the filter degrades, or becomes restrictive over time and you go WOT and the oil pressure climbs the bypass is designed to open at 22 psi above the 60 psi design criteria. This reduces the chance of starving the engine of oil. Or am I still out there in left field? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  6. So with a bypass from anywhere of 12-22 psi, does that not seem low? My truck even when warm still hovers around 40 psi at idle. Does that mean I am bypassing my filter all of the time?? Excuse my ignorance, but this simply baffles me. BTW i just checked my maintenance picture log and I used the 10255 filter just this last weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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