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CO-Stark

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About CO-Stark

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  1. Yeah that would be ideal, don't know if I have the time for it tho...and the impression I get is those coils are sprung pretty hard in there so I'm not too sure about pulling them out in the garage... I may just see if I can get these off and then look for a generic jounce/stop that's about an inch shorter. We'll see.
  2. Correct no torsion bars, and like I said above, theres easily another inch it all can travel because before they adjust the coilovrs up 1" I was sitting that much closer to the 'jounce'. Thanks for that, in that video the jounce looks to give much more than I thought, wonder if mine are the same, in which case they don't limit travel as much as they slow it down til it hits limit, if that makes sense. Thank you.
  3. Can't imagine they wouldn't, the coilover kit is a 2-3" lift and it's set at 3", so I have a bare minimum 1" it would be able to travel. I had the torsion bars stock and the lower arm was almost resting on those before the lift...just don't understand why it would be designed that way leaving so little travel.
  4. Yeah that's what I'm looking at, mine is cylindrical with a sort of dome that contacts the arm. Didn't realize it's 'part of the suspension', just looks like a rubber stop. So then the question is why is it so dang close to the lower control arm? Mine has a little more space than that picture after having my coilover conversion done, but there's still barely any travel before that would start to kick in. Why isn't there be more room for the spring (coil or torsion) and shock to do their job? I'm on this kick because I changed some parts on my little commuter truck and doubled the suspension travel and it rides like a dream, so now I'm on the hunt for more travel on the big pig. See any problems with replacing this with something lower profile if it will still absorb a little (not just "stop")?
  5. Hi all, I search and found some mentions of the bump stops but not what I'm wondering about. Has anyone changed out the factory lower control arm bump stops for something lower profile? Hoping for a little more up travel, even with the BDS conversion (new upper and lower arms) there's just not much travel and those bump stops stick down almost 3" from the mount, seems like a 1 1/2" or even 2" bump would still do the job but give the shocks more room to do their job... Thoughts?
  6. The experience that really killed chrome for me was my 2006 Titan. Great truck but yeah, it was polish the chrome or it looked spotty. Might hold up for 1 or 2 washes, sometimes, but it was a lot of work for some shine that I wasn't really into anyway. Also, I'm pretty sure all of the chrome I have on this one aside from the wheels is actually plastic (since my bumper is painted). So I don't have real chrome problems, I have fake chrome problems... Thought about plasti dip, and I might, just want to do something that will hold up well. I found the blue "by accident" on my 1500. It was all the specs and price I was looking for and I didn't hate blue. After having that one though, seeing it in different lights, and especially how it looked as some of the chrome disappeared...for this truck I was looking for this blue, and this blue only! That's a sweet prize! Mine came with a bit of clear bra (I think 3M) as I got it a year old. It's in good places at the front of the hood and the fender, but nothing on bumper or grill at all. Hadn't thought about the plastic chrome til last night as I was washing it and today. I don't even have real chrome, so it's highly unlikely to hold up very well...makes me want to kill it even more!
  7. Not too worried about bugs, when I wash it I WASH it. But yes. On my 1500 it got chipped pretty bad pretty quick. It didn't bother me much as I'm not entering shows with it. It still cleaned up nicely. I am hoping to get xpel or something on this one before that happens, but at the end of the day, personally, I'd rather have some chips than a giant chrome bumper. If for no other reason, and based on my experience, after some time that chrome won't look any better than a chipped bumper unless it's frequently polished.
  8. Very nice. I have color matched bumper but chrome grill and headlight bezels. Based on my previous truck (1500) if I can get rid of that chrome and the wheels the smaller stuff won't bother me as much, but right now there's so much I want to kill it all!
  9. Well it looks great! Thanks for the closer picture too, brings up more questions... Did you have to change out trim to de-chrome it or did yours come that way? Looking at door handles, mirror caps, window trim, etc.
  10. Details and/or more pics please!! I know I've seen your truck somewhere else on here but don't think I saw your mods. I'm debating what to do to my new (to me) HD in terms of lift/level.
  11. To each they're own, I don't argue with anyone for liking what they like! I'm just amazed that these brand new trucks don't have the option where the gmc's have some LED and the half tons from both companies have them all over. Clearly gm sees the trend, they just chose not to act on it with their most expensive trucks!?!
  12. Any new options on this? Or pictures of the options mentioned? I just came to a 2500 from a '16 1500 that had LED everywhere but the third brake light. My newer ('18) 'high country' 2500 has none and it's infuriating. Ultimately I'm hoping to go LED on much more than just headlights...
  13. I'm with you on old school. Old school (in my mind) uses the look and even smell of fluid much more than pure mileage based service. I also like to be on the safe side so I'm about to do a lot of my fluids based on mileage, because this is the nicest truck by far I've ever owned. I like diyer2's input on making your fluid changes easier if you're going to do them yourself. I also fully understand not trusting the 'grease monkey' type shops with your truck. I worked there, and I cared for the most part, but how much does a kid making $7/hour (in my case, back in the day) really care about other peoples stuff? I know the dealerships aren't much better, but at least they have some GM backing if something does go wrong. I'm probably going to have the dealer do the work on mine because I just don't have time to mess with it all, but I know that's not for everyone. IMO The 4 pan drops is overkill for sure. Maybe 2, or 1 and then use diyer2's ideas to change the fluid one more time without dropping the pan. Bottom line though, it's your truck and up to you.
  14. Not sure if the process for doing a pan drop has changed at all on these newer trucks. I would say this, it sucks to pay it but think about how much time that will take you to do that 4 times to get most of the fluid changed, and compare that to the $120 or whatever a dealer would charge which gets most of the fluid changed all at once. I realize the numbers are probably imperfect, but when I worked at Grease Monkey years ago, they said a pan drop would change 70% of the fluid, where the power flush was 99% (and used 30qts of transmission fluid in most cases, so it seems believable). By those numbers, 4 pan drops pull just ahead of 1 fluid flush, but is it really worth the time and effort? Can't answer that for anyone else, but I just don't have time for that much wrenching these days. Oh, AND you have to deal with disposal of the old fluid, 4 times!!
  15. Yeah it is a functional scoop to help that Duramax breathe. You could look at a 2015-2016 that didn't have the scoop, or look into a swap as others have suggested. If you intend to swap, do a little research on the difference in air-flow. Wouldn't think it would change things too much, but I also wouldn't bet a new diesel motor on it.
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