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About CO-Stark

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  1. Yeah I've always been VERY pleased with my tire shop, but lately for whatever reason they've had to use a lot of weights and I still feel some wobble between balancing. Sounds like you've got a solid tire shop either way! Don't know, but like I said at that price I'd be in, wouldn't even hesitate!
  2. I might go for bead balancing at that price...never been given the option but I hate seeing the dang weights on my wheels...
  3. Yeah the customer service issues I've heard are more on custom orders, not the more 'production' wheels. And yes if you're not going custom and you're going thru custom offsets or another similar retailer you probably wouldn't have to deal with fuel directly. But when I hear about a company that doesn't take care of customers spending extra money with them I'm leery of giving them my business. The non-conformity is probably enough for me but the things I've heard sealed the deal on never buying their product. Perfect response. A lot of these companies make a good wheel. I've bought Ion and Vision wheels for less coin and had no complaints. And I feel the same way about Nitto. Never had them or heard complaints necessarily, but I don't like how they look and don't exactly understand how they are so popular. Part of my personal equation on tires was doing a bit of a deep dive on which tires are produced in America by American companies (not many). But in the end, as you said, buy what you like, I'm ok with it. In this case, OP asked for opinions, so thats what I gave.
  4. This is a cool and unique looking wheel, but they have a lot of wheels that look too much like every thing else out there. Also as someone just said, seems like everyone has them. I swear 9/10 lifted trucks I see on the road you can see that little F spinning in the wheel and generally speaking I have a strong aversion to doing what everyone else does. And to top it off I've heard some nightmares about their customer service, which only matters if there's a problem, but still.
  5. I like more tire and less wheel, I'd definitely go 20" personally. Not big on chrome wheels so it's hard for me to pick a style out of those other than advising against fuel. Have you checked the CO gallery for the same lift and negative offset you're looking at? I think you said the McGaughys lift doesn't increase track width too much, but when I had 9" -19 wheels with a BDS kit, the tires stuck out pretty good. I liked it but I also think you said you didn't really want that. You can search the gallery to see what you're looking at and make sure you want to go that far negative. Congrats and good hunting, sounds awesome!
  6. Oh and your initial question about labor cost, it was pretty close to 1,000 for each lift I've had installed, 6" BDS on that half ton and the 2-3" bds coilover on my current truck. Different work involved but they amounted to similar shop time. Someone made a comment that you can base it off the cost of the lift...not true at all, especially not double the price of the kit, unless maybe you're buying the cheapest kit known to man, or that might be true in the case of a level kit.
  7. A lot depend on the offset you are looking at. I had a half ton on 6" lift with 33's, but -19 offset in addition to the 1.5" per side increase in front track width. I had full turn left and right, including reverse, but would rub slightly at full turn if going over bumps or on an angle. All this to say that negative offset and the increased track width will make a smaller tire seem to fill the wheel well more, and I think that's what you're seeing on the 8" lift with 35 pics you're posting (those are not factory rims, likely zero or slightly negative offset). If you are keeping factory rims, you'll be sitting within the fenders and probably want a larger tire, or less lift, to make the 35s look right.
  8. No these newer ones are definitely capable of "shift on the fly" as they call it. As someone else said I try to shift it when I can let off the gas and or not be on the brakes much, make sure everything is spinning freely at the same speed, and as I said above I don't shift at full highway speed. Other than that you should be fine.
  9. I don't know. I've shopped a little can't decide what I really want to do. I've had thoughts any where from bulbs, to whole headlights, to finding a salvaged 1500 and swapping the whole front end, to just selling this HD and going back to half ton. I really do like the diesel, but I'm starting to really wonder if its worth the extra coin I had to put in...
  10. One of several disappointments I had "upgrading" to a newer HD over the 2016 1500 LTZ I had. Don't get me wrong, it is an upgrade, like you said, what a beast! But yeah going 2 years newer (current truck is 2018) and up from LTZ to High Country, and from 1/2 ton to HD (spending a LOT more coin), all I got was the beast aspect, lost all the LED exterior lights, AWD mode on t-case, the lane keep assist (HD warns you when you leave your lane but the 1/2 ton would actually steer you back in), and seems like there was something else but its not coming to me. None of those are deal breakers, I knew about them before hand and still did what I did, but every time I see the yellow light out the front it grinds my gears, and there's so many options to upgrade, combined with the frustration of having to upgrade in the first place and spend even more money, I haven't done it yet. Oh wait, call off my whole complaint, I also got a few panels of fake wood and the 'high country' stitching in the headrests... Sorry, rant over.
  11. This was definitely on a previous truck, I'm guessing it was my 2006 Titan, but I believe it was in the owner's manual that they recommended keeping 2WD to 4WD shifts under 60mph. Personally I've maintained that as a rule of thumb, but truth is these trucks have so many sensors and safeties built in, it won't complete the shift if doing so at your current speed would cause any issues. Because it just happened to me I'll mention this scenario, even if you shift to 4hi at a stop, let it complete the shift before you get on her...I was at a light and put it in 4 so I could get off the line, but the light changed sooner than I expected. Rear spins, I let off, and *clunk* when it was able to get into 4WD. Doubt there's lasting damage from that one time but not something you want to make a habit of, to say the least. Maximum speed in 4hi?!? Mash the throttle and find out LOL. I'm not positive but pretty sure I've had mine up to 85-90mph with no issues.
  12. Yeah that would be ideal, don't know if I have the time for it tho...and the impression I get is those coils are sprung pretty hard in there so I'm not too sure about pulling them out in the garage... I may just see if I can get these off and then look for a generic jounce/stop that's about an inch shorter. We'll see.
  13. Correct no torsion bars, and like I said above, theres easily another inch it all can travel because before they adjust the coilovrs up 1" I was sitting that much closer to the 'jounce'. Thanks for that, in that video the jounce looks to give much more than I thought, wonder if mine are the same, in which case they don't limit travel as much as they slow it down til it hits limit, if that makes sense. Thank you.
  14. Can't imagine they wouldn't, the coilover kit is a 2-3" lift and it's set at 3", so I have a bare minimum 1" it would be able to travel. I had the torsion bars stock and the lower arm was almost resting on those before the lift...just don't understand why it would be designed that way leaving so little travel.
  15. Yeah that's what I'm looking at, mine is cylindrical with a sort of dome that contacts the arm. Didn't realize it's 'part of the suspension', just looks like a rubber stop. So then the question is why is it so dang close to the lower control arm? Mine has a little more space than that picture after having my coilover conversion done, but there's still barely any travel before that would start to kick in. Why isn't there be more room for the spring (coil or torsion) and shock to do their job? I'm on this kick because I changed some parts on my little commuter truck and doubled the suspension travel and it rides like a dream, so now I'm on the hunt for more travel on the big pig. See any problems with replacing this with something lower profile if it will still absorb a little (not just "stop")?
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