I'm pretty sleep deprived but I think you did miss the math a little. 73.97" + 7" would make 80.97", not 82.97". Then with the tires, you are adding 5" of diameter, but only half of that is pushing the truck up, the other half is going up into your wheel wells. So by my math, your overall height would be 73.97" + 7" lift + 2.5" tire size increase for a total of 83.47". By that, it'll be dang close! I think I saw someone on youtube with a 6" lift and 35's fit in a 7' garage, so you might have a chance.
Question for you guys, I'm about to drive a roughly 1,000 mile round trip to lake powell. Got to thinking about my spare tire... I didn't go too big on my new tires so I think I should be fine if I had to use it, but what do you do about a spare after changing to bigger tires?
All they would have done in the rear is replace the blocks between the leaf springs and axle, so you could check those for looseness or just re-torque them anyway. How long have you had the lift on? The shop that did mine had me come back after 500 miles and they took 45 minutes or so to check that everything was still tight after bumping around a bit.
If done right the spacers won't hurt anything, like someone said it's basically just changing the offset on your wheel to be more negative. Also as noted, BORA seems to be the most trusted brand. Custom Offsets has a youtube video about spacer myths, #2 and #5 will apply to your questions. Also, personally I went with 1.75" spacers to avoid stud trimming. Mine aren't in yet but everything I found says our studs are right at 1.75", so if you do the 1.5" spacer, you will have to trim some for it to sit flush against the hub, which is a MUST.
To maintain what you have sitting on a 2" block I think you would need the stock block and add-a-leaf. From everything I've seen about the a-a-l it only give you an inch or so. *Caution: this advice might be worth less than what you paid...I don't have personal experience with the add-a-leaf.
I remember reading a few pages back on the thread somewhere that guys were having that issue or similar, and the fix was to remove the drive shaft, rotate (180 degrees if memory serves) and put back together. Sounded like a relatively easy fix. So the stealer might be right that it is the front drive shaft, but mostly because they put it back together out of sync.
Correct, also "NOT" what i said. The full leaf pack option put the rear of my truck up about 5 inches, so if he's looking for more than what a 5" block can do, he could do the full leaf pack and change out the stock block for 2" or 3" or so to push up a little higher. I still doubt it's the greatest idea in the world, but not nearly on the level of stacking blocks. See above. If I were you, I would get a more professional opinion than mine, however, the full leaf pack puts me right around the rear-end height of a 3/4 ton (I actually wonder if its a 3/4 ton leaf pack, looks very similar) and they throw blocks underneath to lift those. Especially if you're only looking to gain 2" above what a 5" block would do. If you did the leaf pack and 2" block, I think you'd be there. (5" block minus the 1" stock block is a net change of 4", so the 5" gained by the leaf pack plus net 1" by using a 2" block puts you dang close by my math).
Yes indeed! That seems like a good solution for you. I don't know much about the different leveling kits as far as a brand preference or anything but again if its temporary, even a 'crappy' one should work for you.
Bad angle talk is important but is sometimes over-blown. If you go with a more tame leveling kit (2" or so) it will change the angles but won't over stress anything, especially if you are thinking of a temporary situation. This would be relatively easy to remove when you're ready to go lower. If you want to go higher than about 2", you need to look at a high quality suspension lift. These are engineered to keep the angles close to what they are stock. Zone and BDS are the most popular partly because they do very well with maintaining your angles. Remember tho, if you do an actual suspension lift, it is much harder to bring it back down. There is cutting and welding involved, and while I'm sure it's possible to go back to stock or lower, it's not going to be a "bolt-off" job.
Looks great! Did you put spacers on the rear to even out the stance? I'm planning to get them for mine but I was bummed the ones I want take 2-3 weeks to get, so naturally I have now burned a week without even ordering them...oops.
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Well gents, it FINALLY got done! 6" BDS lift, with full replacement leaf pack (still on stock rear block), 18x10 -19 offset Ion wheels matte black with 305/60/18 Micky Thompson Baja ATZ P3. These are some of my first pics, truck wasn't cleaned by the shop which was a bit of a bummer, but didn't matter much as I got 'er muddy already at work! Some notes bout track width, often talked about in this thread (by no means do I claim perfect measurement technique, but I did use levels and such and tried to get it right): -I measured both compared to fender walls and actual track width, front and rear, before the lift (I can't quite say "stock" because this truck came to me with High country wheels, 20x9 +27, and my understanding is that 18x9 +31 was actually stock) and after. -Compared to the fenders there was already a 1" difference from front to rear, front being wider/rear tucked under more -Actual track width was 1.25" wider in front before lift. Fenders were at 37" front height, 38" rear height. -After lift, I measured the front sticking out 1.875" further than the rear (from fenders) -Actual track width after lift about 3.5" wider in front than rear. Fenders now at 43.75 and 43.25 front and rear (slight squat) SO, based on my experience I would say the usual line that the BDS kit PUSHES track width out 1.5" per side isn't quite right (my track width went from 1.25" wider to 3.5" wider in front than rear, so just over 1" per side), however, it does push and combined with the initial difference in track width puts you in the 1.5" to 2" range (per side) depending how you measure it. I did take some pics/video of the 'stock' track width difference too, in case you think I'm full of sh.. I'm not saying you're wrong about that, just that I have some proof in this case. And I somehow didn't get the best angle on it but I took the one pic with my level sitting 2" outside the rear sidewall to try to illustrate. I'm going to get spacers to even that out, just trying to decide between 1.5", 1.75", or 2", since I'm sitting at 1.875" difference compared to fenders, but only 1.75" of track width different. I doubt any one would ever notice the difference from the front either direction, but I overthink everything (if you hadn't realized yet by reading this book of a post). Finally, the Titan in the one pic is my old truck. Funny thing is being the 'off-road edition', it sat about 3" above the stock height of the Chevy, so I'm not that much taller than it now. The look of the new one is MUCH more aggressive though (read: AWESOME)! I do apologize for the long post, just giddy as a school girl right now and wanted to share as much info as I reasonably could.
I know, it's ridiculous. Everybody on here has mentioned the increase in track width, but the shop doing mine swears that doesn't happen. I did take some stock measurements the other day and was surprised to learn I have almost an inch wider track in front than back, even at stock. Had never noticed it but if you look REAL close down the side, its there.
I'm doing 6" BDS (not magneride) and was told (and seen all over the forum) stock wheels would not work without spacers. The backspacing becomes an issue after being lifted. You might get away with pretty thin spacers, but I think you'll need something.
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