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About CO-Stark

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    Northern Colorado
  • Drives
    2016 Chevy 1500 LTZ Z71; 6" BDS lift
  1. I'm with you on old school. Old school (in my mind) uses the look and even smell of fluid much more than pure mileage based service. I also like to be on the safe side so I'm about to do a lot of my fluids based on mileage, because this is the nicest truck by far I've ever owned. I like diyer2's input on making your fluid changes easier if you're going to do them yourself. I also fully understand not trusting the 'grease monkey' type shops with your truck. I worked there, and I cared for the most part, but how much does a kid making $7/hour (in my case, back in the day) really care about other peoples stuff? I know the dealerships aren't much better, but at least they have some GM backing if something does go wrong. I'm probably going to have the dealer do the work on mine because I just don't have time to mess with it all, but I know that's not for everyone. IMO The 4 pan drops is overkill for sure. Maybe 2, or 1 and then use diyer2's ideas to change the fluid one more time without dropping the pan. Bottom line though, it's your truck and up to you.
  2. Not sure if the process for doing a pan drop has changed at all on these newer trucks. I would say this, it sucks to pay it but think about how much time that will take you to do that 4 times to get most of the fluid changed, and compare that to the $120 or whatever a dealer would charge which gets most of the fluid changed all at once. I realize the numbers are probably imperfect, but when I worked at Grease Monkey years ago, they said a pan drop would change 70% of the fluid, where the power flush was 99% (and used 30qts of transmission fluid in most cases, so it seems believable). By those numbers, 4 pan drops pull just ahead of 1 fluid flush, but is it really worth the time and effort? Can't answer that for anyone else, but I just don't have time for that much wrenching these days. Oh, AND you have to deal with disposal of the old fluid, 4 times!!
  3. Hood SCOOP 2500HD

    Yeah it is a functional scoop to help that Duramax breathe. You could look at a 2015-2016 that didn't have the scoop, or look into a swap as others have suggested. If you intend to swap, do a little research on the difference in air-flow. Wouldn't think it would change things too much, but I also wouldn't bet a new diesel motor on it.
  4. Yes. This. I'm thinking hard about getting into a 2500 Duramax, and I know it's stupid, but the lighting situation bothers me. On my 1500 LTZ, the only non-LED I've found inside or out is in the 3rd brake light (also frustrating). Unless I'm wrong, I haven't seen the HD trucks with nearly that many stock LED on them, even in High Country/Denali... just surprises me that they made such a change for the '16 1500 but didn't do it for the big brother.
  5. Wheel Spacer?

    I just looked back and mine (BORA) were $180 for a pair including shipping (CustomOffsets.com). You have the lead time nailed though, it was 3 weeks from order to ship date, and almost a week in transit.
  6. Wheel Spacer?

    Yours doesn't look like there's as much difference as mine had, could be the tires like you said. You could measure (even approx) how much tire is sticking outside the fender and what's the different front to back. I don't think the front and rear fenders are exactly in-line with each other, but it was part of how I decided what size spacer I wanted. I really try not to tell anyone how to build their truck. If you don't notice and don't mind, save the $100 plus. Personally, not only did mine bug me before the spacers, but I also still chuckle a little at the many trucks on the road (especially the dealer or '____ package') that don't even out the track width. Very noticeable to me and makes the truck look incomplete. Again, you do you. Hardly anyone will notice and most of us don't lift our truck to make other people happy, so who cares what they think. I might have one of the least liked builds on here because I didn't trim to stuff 35's under it, but I effin love it! Also on the spacers, part of the deal for me is checking the torque on the spacer at every rotation. I never said a word to my tire shop (wanted to see what they'd do) and in 4ish rotations since the spacers they have torqued them while the tires were being balanced every time. Between that and buying good spacers to start with, I have no second thoughts about running spacers.
  7. Wheel Spacer?

    From memory they are 1 1/2" or 1 5/8", I'm fairly certain that to completely cover the studs a 1 3/4" spacer is needed. That said, as others have noted, some wheels have pocket space for the end of the studs even if the spacer doesn't completely cover them. First pic is before wheel spacers. Doesn't look like much at all in a picture, but I knew it was there and it bugged the heck out of me. 2nd pic is the only one I can find right down the track, and that's not even why I took that picture (haha). 1 3/4" spacer evens them out nicely with the BDS lift.
  8. I wasn't looking for a blue truck, but I'm pretty glad I found one...
  9. The credibility is also strong when you reply to a post where the guy says he lives in canada by saying he's hiding his location and must live in Texas or something where he never needs 4WD...
  10. That would be very good to know. I also like running the fogs frequently, either for looks, or in dusk type lighting before the headlights are fully necessary. I don't think my fogs with 6" lift hit other cars mirrors, but I have noticed they are quite bright and probably aimed higher than they need to be.
  11. Yup. A simple adjustment that I didn't do right away after my 6" lift, but went from getting flashed about as much as you're talking about to hardly, if ever, getting flashed now. To the guy who said don't bother (I think the same guy who later said he has factory HID's), the LED headlights are a whole different ball game. The HID are bright, for sure, but I have frequently seen an oncoming vehicle and thought "why the hell are those so bright?!?" Only to find out its a fellow Silverado... Usually turns out they have something loaded in the bed or towing a trailer, or maybe the truck has been leveled. But yeah, they're very bright, so when pointed higher than they ought to be, it's a bit of a problem.
  12. Yeah I've heard it's not the best for full time driving, which makes sense to me. I drove a 2WD Dodge Dakota for years out here and always managed thru snow and such, so mostly I just leave it in 2 and make do. Buuut, when it gets slippery and I'm in a hurry (this morning's commute) and I worry about the other genius drivers out there, knowing that I have that AWD option is nice.
  13. I was never a fan of the "auto" setting on the 4WD selector, but for whatever reason I tried it today in the snow and ice here in Colorado. I flipped to the 'off-road' page of the DIC and noticed it said AWD, not 4WD, with all 4 tires in green. I didn't realize it's a whole different mode, assumed it would switch at will between 2WD and 4WD. It was quite nice to have that extra traction going down the road and not have to shift back to 2WD to enter a parking lot without binding up while turning.
  14. 2014+ Suspension Lifts

    Looks nice! I don't know if they sell it separately but when I got the BDS kit I opted for the full rear leaf pack instead of the block. I think the up-charge was around $400 or so. I think it still sits on the stock block, so you may have to get those if you didn't keep your old ones. My fender height went up 5 1/4" from stock and sits just below the front after the BDS 6" lift (less than 1/2", but I almost always have some weight back there pulling it down too). Install might be interesting, I guess the shop I went to hadn't done many of them and didn't realize the mounting bolts for the leaf springs all have something right behind them (tow package, gas tank, don't remember exactly). They didn't outright say it but I got the impression there would be a bit of an installation upcharge for the next one of those that they do.
  15. 2014+ Suspension Lifts

    Concur with Jimmy, I did the 1.75", no stud trimming. I measured track width as well as where they sat in relation to the fender when I was deciding. There were a lot of recommendations to do the 1.5" because "that's what the lift adds", but I didn't want to trim, and like Jimmy said, the front is slightly wider to start. By track width I measured at 3.25" wider in the front, and from the fenders the front was right around 2" per side. I almost got the 2" spacers but the 1.75 worked out nicely IMO. I have BDS, not zone, but they should be essentially the same thing. Apparently I never took specific pics after the spacers, but I found a couple to give you an idea. I'm on 18x10 -19 offset.

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