We worked on it last weekend. We checked the wiring and try to remove the excessive rtv. However, after several attempts, it still says "signal may be blocked" . I refreshed the signal multiple times through the XM website, but the antenna did not pick up any signal. I ended up putting a new antenna. As soon as I connected it, "signal may be blocked" was disappeared . I finally got my XM radio working back after refreshing the signal with the new fin. It costs me overall over $100 to fix the stupid leak and to restore the signal: $10 for the clear RTV and the Caulking Gun $50 for the new antenna (part # 23258394) $50 for the labor cost that I paid for my technician friend If I were going to the dealer to handle it, they would charge me nearly $300 to reseal it.
That's what I think too. I might blobbed too much but I don't think I damaged the connector. II just loosened the bolt that holds the antenna, I did not fully remove it. I will just by another antenna and I hope that will fix the problem.
Thank you y'all of your help. My technician friend came last week and resealed the thing. We had to remove the headliner to have an access to the antenna. I used "GE All Purpose Silicone - Clear" to reseal the stupid fin. I hope the leak will stop permanently. However, I did lose my signal for the XM radio. It says "Receiption may be blocked". My just re-activated the membership and tried to refresh the signal multiple times, but still no signal. I'm not sure what is really the cause of the connection issue. We made sure every wire were properly re-connected. I suspect the antenna has been defective after the leaking occurred. Shame on you GM! trying to save some money to build and install cheap parts leading to major issues.
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** Update ** I was able to fix both of the outlets. For the 110V power outlet, as L86 All Terrain said, I let my technician friend to mess with it. It appeared that one of the wires where somehow loose. Nothing wrong with the module nor the outlet plug. For the DC outlet (the one located above 110V AC outlet) , it was very simple fix actually, It wasn't fuse #35. It was #1 Fuse on the driver's side (see the attach files). FYI, may be obvious but, each power outlet has a separate fuse, their corresponded fuses located in both the driver and the passenger fuse boxes. My truck has 4 outlets which means they are 4 fuses for each one of them. Thank you y'all for the help.
If you mean Fuse #1 (APO 2) (15A) then you are right. Unfortunately, my truck has over 110k miles and the manufacturer warranty has already expired. I bought it as-is. Thank you for the info.
Hello, My Silverado truck has about 120k miles and my warranty has already expired. It was raining all day long. The day after, I saw water drips coming out from the roof (see the attached photo). I went to dealer to find out where does the leak come from. They did water test and told me the leak from the Shark Fin. It costs over $200 to re-seal it. I asked them what would it cost to replace it, they told me it cost almost the same. I'm thinking to DYI the sealing, but I couldn't see any topics illustrate that. I'd appreciate any one can help me with this issue. Thanks in advance.
To check the connectors, do I need to pull out the Module? No, I bought it from a dealer. Not all the outlets are dead. The USB ports do work. Do I need to test the module using the multimeter or test the wires that connects to it? Thanks for the advice though Lucky, my USB ports do work and the outlet in the rear side works too.
Vehicle: 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Both of the cigarette socket and 110V (AC Inverted) outlets don't work. I thought the issue was simple. I searched online to find a way to fix it. The most common way that I found was to change the fuse for that outlets. However, I did test Fuse #35 (25A), which is located on the passenger's side panel, and it was not blown. I put a new fuse just in case. Although the old one was good but unfortunately the outlet still doesn't work even after the change. I bought the truck a couple weeks ago and this issue was pre-existed. I assume the previous owners misuse the outlets. They might used high amperage devices on the outlets. Other fix that I've found in this form (topic link) was to replace the receptacle (Part # 22854091) and the Control Module (Part #22817310). Before I actually start chaining them, first I'd like to know where the issue exactly? Can it be other than the fuses or the Module? Second, if the issue from the Module, I don't know how to replace them and I did not find any videos to do so. Even the parts number (the one on red) are not compatible with my VIN. I don't like the idea to let the dealer handle this issue. They charge a lot just for a simple diagnosis (at least $200) plus the cost of repair & expensive parts. I'd really appreciate if any one is able to help me regarding this issue. Thank you in advance.
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