Don't know about where you are but around here in Utah, there are lots of really good Transmission shops that probably have a 4l60 sitting on the shelf. Last one I had rebuilt cost me $700. It's been a few years but I can't see paying more than $1000 for a stock transmission. Both of my rebuilds lasted well over any warranty mileage. Just my thoughts. Hope you get it back on the road soon.
Current commuter 2008 R56 Mini Cooper. Fits me like a glove and very fun to drive. But I've spent way too much money trying to fix the leaks that never stay fixed, and it burns oil like crazy. I am constantly fixing something. Not made for longevity. I only keep it because where else am I going to get a 35mpg go-cart with heat and A/C for a few thousand dollars to drive to work
Love me some Roadkill. Close second is Dirt Every Day. I think the dirt every day guys represent me well as a driveway-on-my-back in the snow mechanic. They don't have every single tool known to man and they do stuff that a budget minded guy would do for cheap mods.
Is the security light on by chance? Maybe your passlock is not working properly. Only need three things to start. Comptessed Air, fuel, and spark. You are missing at least one. Fuel pressure doesn't automatically mean the injectors are firing. I would start with a cheap inline spark tester. If it has spark, I would move on to a noid light to check for injector pulse. If that passes check compression.
There is a guy on youtube called Harmless Farmer. Lost his arms when he was very young and it never held him back. He drives his truck, changes the flat tires, drives his combine, and semi, and also carries concealed and is a better shot than some two armed people I know lol.
One thing to think about is, does the noise change frequency with RPM? This will help narrow down a little if it's something that is rotating with engine, which to me it sounds like it is. That would make a heat shield or something less likely. Maybe try a stethoscope to help locate it. Hope you can figure it out.
I think in my experience these transmissions are not going to make it forever anyway. I've had them fail around 150,000 and I've had them go to 250,000 before needing replaced. If it goes out tomorrow, I don't think it really owes you anything. And yes I have heard that flushing a trans that's never had a flush can do more harm than good but never experienced that. It was our policy at the shop not to flush anything over 150,000 miles if they couldn't prove it had been flushed at regular intervals already. I would change the filter and start preparing for a trans rebuild in the future.
Quick search on Car-part.com says 09-13 but depends on all your options. Some of the options I checked were only showing 09-10. Best to grab all your rpo codes and do a quick search there.
If it's the original 290k mile 4l60 it's the trans. If it's the second trans but it was replaced more than 150,000 miles ago, then it's the trans. But a tps is only like $30 so if you think it might be that, grab one and see if it fixes it. Never had a tps issue on my 290,000 mile 99 NBS, my 250,00 mile 02 5.3l suburban, or my 06 306,000 mile 1500 5.3l. But they all needed at least one trans. Hope you can get it sorted. Also, Any decent obd2 scanner should be able to monitor the tps in real time and see if it's giving the correct signal.
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