Brian715

I'll have to call around on Monday and see. I only need a few.

We are completely out of pressure treated lumber here. It's crazy. Can't meet code without it so our building is on hold...

I would say faulty light switch. But just shooting in the dark without some diagnosis with the multimeter

Quick search on Car-part.com says 09-13 but depends on all your options. Some of the options I checked were only showing 09-10. Best to grab all your rpo codes and do a quick search there.

If it's the original 290k mile 4l60 it's the trans. If it's the second trans but it was replaced more than 150,000 miles ago, then it's the trans. But a tps is only like $30 so if you think it might be that, grab one and see if it fixes it. Never had a tps issue on my 290,000 mile 99 NBS, my 250,00 mile 02 5.3l suburban, or my 06 306,000 mile 1500 5.3l. But they all needed at least one trans. Hope you can get it sorted. Also, Any decent obd2 scanner should be able to monitor the tps in real time and see if it's giving the correct signal.

+1

Going to have to be new from GM. Too new for a junkyard. Might be cheaper to let your insurance deal with it if your deductible is $500 or less.

It was radio Circuit that went haywire on mine that had a parasitic draw. Time to get the multimeter out and figure out which one of your circuits in the problem.

Yep, parasitic draw. Mine was on the Radio Circuit so I just installed a relay that was ignition hot only and wired it though there. The clock doesn't hold time but it doesn't die anymore.

I have an 06 extended Cab and we put all three carseats in the back all the time. 3 year old twins and a 1 year old. Lots of room. Wife and I and the 6 year old up front. Crew cab should have lots of room.

Propositioning valve stuck? Caliper bracket bolts too long and binding against the rotor? Something isn't bled properly, installed incorrectly or something. Solft pedal and brakes locked up don't go together. Too tight on spindle nut? I got nothing. Just some thoughts. Hope you can get it figured out. That's gotta be frustrating.

I hate it when that happens.

Our 4.8l work truck with 4.8l was a lot better with 4.10s. as everyone else has stated, both front and rear must match. I would find a donor truck and change the whole front diff and rear end instead of paying for a shop to setup new gears.

Car-part.com. plug in your specs and it will find what you need. I usually sort by distance and you will also get a good idea of how much it will cost you. Might be worth putting a short block in it if that's something you are capable of. I assume so if your thinking of doing the swap yourself. Let us know if you have any more questions!

I just bought an airlift bag set for mine. Seemed to work for me.