Brian715

What did the donor transmission come out of? I usually use car-part.com to verify that my used parts are compatible. I'm not an expert, or even really knowledgeable but from what I have heard and have read about 4l60, only a couple of rules apply. 1)Don't use a v6 one in a v8 application. 2)Make sure you get the right one for 4wd or 2wd depending on what you need. Changing the output shaft requires a bunch of disassembly. 3)If you vehicle needs the iss, make sure your trans has that. It's OK to have it not use it, but can't not have it and need it. 4)make sure you have the correct input shaft 300mm vs 298mm.

Classic 4l60 failure. Not sure I would waste the time oe money on a fluid change. She's toast. I've had a couple go out with those exact symptoms. Honestly 220k is pretty good for a 4l60. A couple of years ago you could get a rebuilt one for about $800. Not sure what they cost now.

If that's how we're going to call it then trucks and large SUVs with off road tires should also pay more, because a 7,000lb truck with mud terrains does far more damage to roads than a prius. I drive one of those trucks, but also commute in a hybrid electric to save money. This also will negatively impact those most in need of a break on it. Those that commute generally do so because they can't afford to live closer to the office, like me where housing close to the office is twice what it is 40 miles away.

I usually check on car-part.com for interchangeability of parts. Just plug in the part and vehicle and the results will be from the year range that you can go to the yard and look for. That being said fuel pumps aren't really known for their reliability and it's not a part I would ever get from the junkyard. Just my personal perspective on it.

What bearings did you use? I've seen the Autozone(cheapies) throw that code right away due to faulty abs sensors in the hub.

Also make sure you get the right gear ratio for your front end to match if it's a 4 wheel drive. You can check the ratio in your glove box on your RPO Build sticker. It will have a code like GU6(3.42)GT5(4.10) or something similar. G80 means you have a limited slip. Edit- after some looking the 99 Tahoe is still the OBS so I think if I remember right the 05 is slightly different in width. And then there's brake differences and all kinds of little odds and ends. Should be easy to find one in the pull n save nearest you for a couple hundred bucks.

Yes we had it bled with the scan tool but never was able to get good brakes out of it. It had over 250,000 miles and we sold it. I had been told we needed to change out the brake hoses to braided lines and that would fix it but we didn't get to that before it was sold. Too much of a liability for the company to have a truck that wouldn't stop correctly.

The ABS module has to be bled with a scan tool on those ones if it gets air in it. Also we had a 04 work truck with the 4.8l. The pedal would go to the floor at stop lights like you described and it was downright scary to drive as it just didn't seem to stop well. We had it at multiple shops replacing just about every brake part without any change. It had this weird vacuum booster thing on the brake booster and it never stopped anywhere remotely as good as our 06 with 5.3l. tried all sorts of things.

Truck prices in Utah are crazy right now. A clean F250 7.3l is going for just under $20,000 out here right now.

Sounds right. It's got everything going against it. Lifted, big tires, big engine. My 06 with 3.42 gears and stock 265/70/17s only gets 14ish empty. That's why my daily was a Mini cooper 35MPG, and now a Fusion Energi 62MPG.

I had an 04 work truck that the blend doors were haywire and it would all of the sudden switch to hot while driving down the road. If you stopped and shut it off it would go back to cold. Easy fix but the truck had over 250,000 on so the boss sold it before we fixed it. Easy way to check that is you can unplug the blend door actuator when it's on cold and see if it stays cold.

I've had control arm bushings make popping noises too.

Plug and play. No issue. Plus then you get to have a trans temp gauge.

Most of my dash clicking stuff has been blend door actuators for the Heat/ac ducts but that doesn't really make sense with it changing with engine speed. Hmm.

Also I would do a leak down test and not just a compression test. Compression can be good but still have oil getting past the oil rings and burning up causing smoke and fouling plugs, misfires and the works.