SSMUFF

That sucks! Yea I was not a happy camper. I have a loaner vehicle from the dealership right now so if it takes 6 months I guess it keeps miles off the truck.

Did you have it covered under warranty or did you fix out of pocket?

I had the truck maintenance done at the dealership. The company I work for pays for all maintenance on my truck so there was never a need for me to skip on maintenance or worry about the cost. For the ease of things I would take it in at 5,000 mile intervals to get oil changed and tires rotated. The dealership that still has my truck did all the work on it. Crappy thing is GM and the dealership would only cover 30% of the cost to replace the entire motor. How is a brand new truck gets 5 yr or 60,000 mile warranty yet I am now going to get a GM remanufactured motor with a 3 yr or 100,000 mile warranty?? Even better was I asked for trade in to buy the truck unrepaired and the dealership could do the repairs then sell the truck at their own time line. They offered me $21,500 for the truck. What a joke since my truck is literally one step below the Denali trim package.

True but very hard to swallow that kind of money on a repair when the truck is so new and very few miles.

I am the original owner and had for the most part I had all the maintenance done at the same dealership. There were a few times that I had it done by the company mechanic because of timing. I always changed around 5,000 miles. Do oil change and tire rotation at the same time. I was lucky and got 65,000 miles out of the factory tires and maybe had another 5,000 in them. The truck had a bad front driver hub go out at 62,000 miles so I had to replace out of pocket, then a misfire caused by bad injector and coil at 72,000 miles then the catastrophic filter failure at 79,000.

Yep they bore scoped through a different lifter to see that the lifter had mushroomed and was not removable. Currently have some GM assistance in paying for the new motor. Working with them to see if they will pay more. Problem is the motor is on backorder which just adds to the entire debacle. I also called a outside shop to get their pricing but they had told me they would use nothing but a gm crate motor. In the end this truck is worth $$$ and replacing the motor with a new one is the best bet. 3 year/100,000 mile warranty isn't terrible and helps with the decision if to fix and sell or fix and drive for 2.5 years. Either way this truck is getting sold before the 3 years is up.

As the title says my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 had a #5 lifter fail and is seized in the block. Not so lucky for me is I have 79,000 miles on the truck and no extended warranty. I did tune out the AFM when I purchased the vehicle new. Dealership has gotten me a price on a GM remanufactured motor and a used motor. Any feedback on how to proceed? Dealership is going to put together a out of warranty request to see if GM will step up. I am also going to speak with the CEM person tomorrow. I can't believe I would need to replace the entire motor because of a GM design issue.

That’s crazy rake. We installed a 2” front lift on a work truck that was 3” rake from the factory. For some reason that truck was a pain in the ass to install front blocks. Took maybe 1.5 hours. My truck took 25 minutes to do the front blocks.

Before after 1.5” motofab block in the front. Thinking about Nitto Grappler 33/11.5/20 for tires.

Before After Installed 1.5” front lift today. Leaves truck with 3/4”-1” rake. Damn GM lean.

Got my truck windows today. 15% on the front windows, 35% on top of the factory back windows.

Nice truck (twin). You say you did the 2" up front only but in your signature you mention the 2.5. Did you do the full RC 2.5 kit or did you do just the less expensive option and lift the front only?

Love the way these trucks look with the 22's and some AT tires. Would the 285/50/22 eliminate rubbing or trimming? Thinking about the RC 2.5 level/lift kit. Also could you add a small spacer to push the wheels/tires out to help with full lock rub?

Have any of you considered the track width? Looks like the front is 1" wider then the rear. So would ordering a 1/2" spacer in the front and a 1.5" in the rear give you a more straight line look?