This can be a few different issues. Like I always tell everyone, start simple and look at fuses first and make sure you don't have a bad fuse to the cluster guage. I had one that my voltage meter kept pegging, replaced alternator and same results. Tested alternator, came to find out it was a bad fuse. One of the poles in it burnt and was hard to see. The guages are all a cluster guage, right now I have my digital milage display going in and out, but all the rest are fine. 2003 zr2 4.3 s10. Check the cable that leads to guage cluster from end to end and make sure it is not loose or corroded Also if your temp is heating up, have you noticed overheating? Bubbling coming out radiator cap? These caps can wear after alot of miles. Sometimes it's as simple as replacing the cap. However, after 100,000 miles, the thermostat tends to go out, mine went out at 120,000. So did my head gasket and I had water going out tail pipe.
Niners 365 replied to Eric Taliaferro's topic in 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/JimmyI see a lot of great responses to your problem, and I will add my 2 cents. the P0101 for maf sensor was just 1 of my problems with my 2003 Chevy s10 4x4 w 4.3. It spread like a virus once that one hit around 125000. I replaced mine about a year and half ago now. But that is also considered a generic code for all GM vehicles. I cleaned mine with cleaner and a soft brissel brush with no avail. So I replaced it with one off Rock Auto and it works just fine, it is an AC delco Reman. Then my head gasket went out, distributor was bad. and fuel injectors were bad. I am the 3rd person to own the truck, so you can see whay I inherited. After all that had the crank sensor go out. So start with the new maf sensor, but I dont believe its causing your loss of fuel pressure. That sounds more like your pump and sensor is going out. But I have heard of strange things clogging up one end of the fuel filter and folks still had same prob after putting in new fuel pump. So make sure you change out fuel filter as well.
I am trying to understand your problem? are you saying you dont have power to your fuse panel? You said you can squeeze your 4way fuse and it works, this is contradicting. I would recommend you replace all fuses associated with turn signals and flashers. Also make sure to have the fuses actually sit down in the connecting metal slots they go into if the metal slots are popped out of fuse holder, then essentially they will not work.
What size engine is it? The 2.8 V6 or the 4.3 by? Also is this a throttle body injector? Meaning you have the 1st generation of injector that still sprays into the carburetor? If your not getting spray at the injector, then you have problem either with cloged injector, or the voltage is gone for them to work. Check and replace fuses associated, and recommend you try replacing the entire injector. I had the issue with my 4.3 by but it's a 2003 with the spider injectors. It had something to do with the heads clogged and the injectors were worn.
A good suggestion one other owner here stated: Let glow plugs warm for at least 15 to 30 seconds. When you start a deisel, you need to let it warm for at least 5 mins so everything it warms and compresses operates correctly. In the winter depending how cold your temps get, diesels burn at low temperatures this is why they are recommended engines for generators in Alaska. Anti Gel additives in winter are great, usually only have to do it twice. At beginning and towards end of season. After, run a deisel horsepower aditive to help clean and bust performance. One good thing is you have a Deisel that does not require the Def tank and fluid, so you won't have issues with the injectors for this. I had m iij ne go out couple times now, both because injectors were plastic tips and the spray eats them. When it's time to replace glow plugs, it is definitely worth the $$ to have dealer replace them. They tend to lock themselves worse than a spark plug, and if you break one. It is really tedious and difficult to get them out where they place them.
It sounds as you covered the basics. Have you checked all the connections with dish soap when it is running? Any bubbles would indicate leaks and possible cracks in the lines. If all that is good, the I reccomend you buy new condenser and swap out.
Have you replaced all spark plugs and wires? If you haven't then I recommend you do. Don't go with the typical 6mm wires, go with the 7.5 to 8mm spark wires. The start fluid will start at a lower spark rate then the injectors. If that doesn't solve your problem then it is your fuel pump. Your going to need to replace it as well as the fuel filter. There is a video on YouTube shows how to replace the fuel pump by taking off the bed of truck, this is way easier than dropping the tank.
Steering knuckle is the same as steering box, just an old way we call it. It is the box junction where all steering goes into the connection point that turns your vehicle left or right.
Niners 365 replied to jimbean's topic in 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/JimmyI see what you have swapped out, what I don't see is the basics. Did you swap out all Spark plugs? Replace them with only AC delco ones. Also, basing off the age, your fuel pump and sender I would put $$ is shot. If you can spray start fluid into carb and it runs till burn off, then your fuel pump is gone. Look up you tube video, get right replacement one. Easiest way to swap it is to remove the bolts holding bed down to frame, remove 2 nuts holding tank knock down at cap. Then use Jack lift w wood pieces and raise it up off frame, then put 2 x4 across frame to keep bed up. Then it's a matter of lifting it high enough to remove old pump and replace w new one.
Well your blinkers definitely dont go thru your speakers, they are a box shape item usually located either around fuse panel or up underneath dash floorboard area by steering column and pedals. The relay in steering column is triggered when you select up or down. Then the signal is recieved at those items and they make their sound off those square items. Look up location for your year make and model for turn signal fuses and switches. It should say where they are at, simply replace them. As far as your stereo goes, you have something turned off internally via knobs, I am suspecting a no volume while driving setting. If you have bluetooth connections like my 2011 and 2012 did, then I would suggest checking that. Not sure what the voice command is but Try "Mute Driving" and see if it gives you menu options like it does when you say Blue tooth connections. One final question, do you have On Star? check for a red mute button where that is, sometimes that is pushed and it mutes your speakers.
I feel your pain, A/C issues can damn near be as difficult as chasing down a short in your electrical system. After reading ur post, and you verified you hav 45° In line outside firewall, but not internally, then I recommend seeing if you can disconnect just the inside line from compressor to back of the heater core inside and blow out line to insure their in no blockage. something simple as a piece of tape or ear squishy someone put in line to preserve it may have gotten deep within since you stated you had replaced the lines. If that dont resolve issue and you still have 45° outside firewall, then I am afraid to say its at your electrical settings and heater core area. My 85 K10 had those levers and nobes that based the heat and A/C basically by the amount of pressure the switch was given based on how much we turned it. These newer ones work almost the same way except they fused in a cluster board.
Is this stock Radio a touch screen type device? If so check internal settings, there is a way you can mute volume by setting the touch screen internally. Also note, with the addition of overhead voice commands that we can sync our blue tooth devices too, it can also be that the previous owner told the system to mute while driving. Look internally on your touch screen for a "Mute while Driving" option, this will cause no sound. Lastly, not sure if the turn signals go thru the speakers, these tend to be a fuse that pulseates when you activate them left or right, I would do some internet research on those to locate the blinker switches, you may need to replace them.
Then it sounds like to me your bushing at end of shaft where is meets the steering knuckle has worn out. it is causing your steering shaft to slide down just far enough to lock it. Question I have, is have you looked at the knuckle? also the plate it locks into, have you tried to slide it down opposite way? You can do the tube bit the other guy is talking about, but if your knuckle is infact damaged, then you need to address it before your steering goes out.
If this a full size truck, and your wanting to go to 20 inch rims, then a 6 inch lift is only way your going to go. I recommend you re evaluate your budget, even at 3200 your not going to get a very good lift and it will only pay for the lift. A good ride and lift, your looking anywhere between 5 and 12000 dollars, just depending on how elaberate you want to go. A BDS lift kit for 6" w shocks and everything is top of the line and they tend to start around 7 grand with rims and tires your at the 12000 mark. I have a 2016 crew cab Duamax, with a pro comp lift. I have 20" XD's with 38's on them and it handles and runs great as a daily and has the fortitute to go out in the woods hunting etc. My kit was 5000, with rims and tires, it was around 7500. Now you can go cheap and buy a rough country, or their are some trailmaster kits still out there (They went out of business), but those kits are lousy on Chevys and GMCs. Very rough riding, not well off road. I had trailmaster 6" on a crew cab 2011 Chevy, broke twice and sheared my tire. Rough countrys are more for Ford n Jeep. I highly recommend having a Pro Comp 6 inch lift installed, get the full kit to with shocks. Dont do the air shocks, those are for pretty boys who wear loafers in a truck..
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