Have you checked the ball switch located in rear by the main connection junction? If this goes out, it will cause tail lights to malfunction. Also check your ground clscrews where lights are attached. If those are corroded or busted off it will cause symptoms your getting. There are youtube videos that show you where they are at.
I would start by checking your fuses and see if their is a blown fuse. This could do it when did Chevy start putting led lights in thier trucks? My 2002 duramax was not Led yet. I dont think the they started till 2012ish I believe. My 2011 1500 was still basic bulbs and lights.. I saw folks getting aftermarket halo led.lights, what they have now. But they had to do something with thier wiring harnesses and ballasts I believe. My wifes 2007 Jeep Wrangler was basic bulbs as well. She just got a 2013 Rubicon w Led Halo lights. So see where the difference in the years are? I am thinking aft
Questions: what year make and model of Chevy truck we talking about here? Also the link you shared goes to Microsoft one drive, not everyone has a subscription to that. Might consider just plain video format and upload a 10 to 20 sec clip. Just heads up, not all vehicles can just switch over to led bulbs. I tried replacement led bulbs for my 85 K10, it made all my lights do a christmas dance of different actions. Vehicle has to have proper wiring harnesses and fuse harnesses to except the change. When I put actual replacement bulb back in my 85 K10, all lights went back to normal. Foo
Niners 365 replied to jameshill's topic in 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/JimmyWhen was the last time the fuel pump has been replaced? This sounds like the pump is failing. I say replace it ($100) fix, replace the fuel filter at same time. Also thier is a small metal filter located inside the carburetor where fuel line go into. Un bolt that, remove that filter. It's not really needed and tends to cause problems. I have replaced my fuel filter in my S10 when it was doing what you got and it solved the problem. Easy way is to unbolt all 6 bed bolts and use Jack's and 2x4s to raise bed up enough to swap out fuel pump. YouTube has a video
Okay, trying to understand your issue without hearing what your trying to state is "ticking" noise. Most trucks after wear and tear will adapt a continuous ticking noise that comes from the use. However, the slightest useless th iij ng like a plastic guide cover over a pulley belt will make a constant ticking noise. My wifes 2003 impala has a low constant ticking noise that is constant that runs with the idler and electronics. However, thier was a weird different ticking noise after it sat for a year, did everything you mentioned. Come to find out, the plastic guide cover over her pul
I agree with CAMGTP, two totally different trucks you have thier. The 6.5 deisel was last produced for GM vehicles I believe in 2001 when they swapped over to Duramax. Try looking up the Old Military vehicle sales online only The hummers use that engine anymore, but I know you can find your truck running or not for cheap.. They use alot of dually and crew cabs..
Yes you should be fine. But I recommend you replace all 8 instead of 2. These are like carma, as soon as you take all the time it takes to get 1 out and replaced, the other are right behind it. Also with the high chance of snapping the glow plugs off, I highly recommend paying the dealership the labor cost to do it. If you snap those off in the block, the ability to get them out now drops dramatically! Especially #6 & 8, right behind steering column..
Quick question. Did the steering wheel column you take out have an air bag in it? If so did you pop it or blow it? Those bags have sensors inside that can mess up alot of electrical items. They can only be replaced at dealerships. Those literally have to be static grounded and removed with special tools. I would also check all your connections, make sure all are seated correctly. Especially at the 30 amp fuze, also replace fuze. If it blows out, you have a short somewhere. A kinked or pinched wire can do this.
This can be a few different issues. Like I always tell everyone, start simple and look at fuses first and make sure you don't have a bad fuse to the cluster guage. I had one that my voltage meter kept pegging, replaced alternator and same results. Tested alternator, came to find out it was a bad fuse. One of the poles in it burnt and was hard to see. The guages are all a cluster guage, right now I have my digital milage display going in and out, but all the rest are fine. 2003 zr2 4.3 s10. Check the cable that leads to guage cluster from end to end and make sure it is not loose or corroded Al
Niners 365 replied to Eric Taliaferro's topic in 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/JimmyI see a lot of great responses to your problem, and I will add my 2 cents. the P0101 for maf sensor was just 1 of my problems with my 2003 Chevy s10 4x4 w 4.3. It spread like a virus once that one hit around 125000. I replaced mine about a year and half ago now. But that is also considered a generic code for all GM vehicles. I cleaned mine with cleaner and a soft brissel brush with no avail. So I replaced it with one off Rock Auto and it works just fine, it is an AC delco Reman. Then my head gasket went out, distributor was bad. and fuel injectors were bad. I am the 3rd person to own the truck
I am trying to understand your problem? are you saying you dont have power to your fuse panel? You said you can squeeze your 4way fuse and it works, this is contradicting. I would recommend you replace all fuses associated with turn signals and flashers. Also make sure to have the fuses actually sit down in the connecting metal slots they go into if the metal slots are popped out of fuse holder, then essentially they will not work.
What size engine is it? The 2.8 V6 or the 4.3 by? Also is this a throttle body injector? Meaning you have the 1st generation of injector that still sprays into the carburetor? If your not getting spray at the injector, then you have problem either with cloged injector, or the voltage is gone for them to work. Check and replace fuses associated, and recommend you try replacing the entire injector. I had the issue with my 4.3 by but it's a 2003 with the spider injectors. It had something to do with the heads clogged and the injectors were worn.
A good suggestion one other owner here stated: Let glow plugs warm for at least 15 to 30 seconds. When you start a deisel, you need to let it warm for at least 5 mins so everything it warms and compresses operates correctly. In the winter depending how cold your temps get, diesels burn at low temperatures this is why they are recommended engines for generators in Alaska. Anti Gel additives in winter are great, usually only have to do it twice. At beginning and towards end of season. After, run a deisel horsepower aditive to help clean and bust performance. One good thing is you have a Deisel t
It sounds as you covered the basics. Have you checked all the connections with dish soap when it is running? Any bubbles would indicate leaks and possible cracks in the lines. If all that is good, the I reccomend you buy new condenser and swap out.
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