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About Frits

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  1. I still haven't done anything with this. I might try to put some heat on it and see what happens.
  2. For my year (2011) its ~9k with 3.73gears and 13k with 4.10gears. I imagine an '04 would be a little less. I'd want 4.10's for towing. You can figure out the gear ratio from the RPO sticker in the glove box. Have the seller send you a pic.
  3. What should I expect to see from a tune? Numbers? 2011 6.0.
  4. That looks better than the hammer crimper I have, the way it’s got three points to smash into the terminal. The one I have just kinda smashes everything into a V shape.
  5. Finally got the ground terminal changed and everything fits a little better now. Wires where 2guage and 10-12? gauge. I used a hydraulic crimper I bought off amazon, I wasn’t comfortable using my hammer crimper for this critical job. Getting that marine style terminal on and tightened up was kind of a pain would have been easier if I put it on when the battery was outside the vehicle. Also some may notice I changed the Batteries Plus battery for a Napa battery. You can read about that here if you like.
  6. With it being diesel truck style dual battery setup that means there is no isolation between the batteries? and both batteries the same? If I add a second battery I'll isolate them and run the trailer wiring to the auxiliary battery. Not sure if I'll get around to it, it's probably not needed. But I could use my old H6 battery since it's still healthy(just undersized IMO).
  7. I have a 2500HD gas. Not a 1500. If there is a difference between 1500 battery setup and gas HD battery setup please advise.
  8. I couldn't find any info online about upgrading the battery so, this is what I came up with. With the NNBS(07-13?) trucks no matter what gas engine you have, 4.3 to 6.2 your battery choices are either a 615CCA or 730CCA H6(group 48). My truck came with a one year old 615CCA battery that wouldn't start the truck at -33F, unacceptable. While it's still warm out I wanted to fix this. I went down the rabbit hole of bigger batteries, AGM, dual batteries etc. I found that even though AGM's claim to have more CCA than FLA I did not find that to be true when I looked at the numbers, also some charging systems may not be compatible with AGM batteries, and they're expensive. I found that the Dodge 1500 uses a H7 battery, and I found a guy online that upgraded his dodge's H7 to H8. The H8 isn't more expensive than a H7 or H6. So now H8 is what I'm aiming for, and yes I looked at H9 but it's really not a thing. I knew it was gonna be a tight fit. The H8 is three inches longer than the H6 but the other dimensions are identical. Major modifications that need to be done are remove the battery tray and remove the raised portion of the stamping that limited the battery's length. I used a cut-off wheel and a hammer. I bought the Batteries Plus battery because I believe it's made by East Penn. Napa has what looks to be the same battery. I didn't go with the NAPA battery because I couldn't figure out their warranty PDF. Batteries plus put it right there in the description, 3 years. The battery cost me $122 after the typical batteries plus discount and core. First picture shows the modified tray. It's modified both top and bottom. Second picture shows how much extra room is on the tray now. Third picture self explanatory. Fourth picture shows the problem I ran into. The negative battery cable wants to run between the battery and the firewall which moves the whole battery over almost a half inch. Fifth picture shows how tight it is for space. I'm going to put a new end on my negative battery cable and route the cable over the top of the battery so I can slide the battery away from the coolant overflow tank.
  9. First I tried a 3/8th ratchet with a big wrench on the handle, my 17mm hex driver is 3/8th drive. I can try the half-inch breaker bar with a cheater bar on it but I’m afraid to mess up the threads in the block or something, I wasn’t expecting it to be so tight.
  10. While fixing a broken exhaust manifold bolt I thought it would be a good time to install a block heater. I found the plug that has to be removed above the oil filter. It’s a 17mm hex drive. I tried to remove the plug with my snap-on impact and it won’t budge. I upped the psi to 115 and laid on the trigger for a minute straight, nothing. What gives?
  11. The trailer charging wire on the seven pin is hot at all times. If something has recently caused the trailer to drain your trucks battery I assume there is a new problem with your camper.
  12. Thanks guys. I should have mentioned it's an auto. it wasn't cracked on the nosecone last time, it was cracked where the bolts clamp it to the engine. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around why a bad motor mount would cause a starter to crack. The whole truck bounces around like crazy on rough roads regardless. I've had a bad motor mount before and it caused a relatively gentle rock back and forth of the engine but nothing jarring. As for the distributor that seems unlikely to me too because the problem went away completely after putting a new starter on. No grinding as if it was misaligned, no kickback, no problems. "If it is still kicking back on the starter when cranking hot engine" This makes me think though. Last time I had a no start the engine was hot as I had been plowing, I shut it off and came back a few minutes later and it did it's noisy kickback business and wouldn't start. I gave up and came back a couple hours later and I got it to start.
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