First I tried a 3/8th ratchet with a big wrench on the handle, my 17mm hex driver is 3/8th drive. I can try the half-inch breaker bar with a cheater bar on it but I’m afraid to mess up the threads in the block or something, I wasn’t expecting it to be so tight.
While fixing a broken exhaust manifold bolt I thought it would be a good time to install a block heater. I found the plug that has to be removed above the oil filter. It’s a 17mm hex drive. I tried to remove the plug with my snap-on impact and it won’t budge. I upped the psi to 115 and laid on the trigger for a minute straight, nothing. What gives?
Thanks guys. I should have mentioned it's an auto. it wasn't cracked on the nosecone last time, it was cracked where the bolts clamp it to the engine. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around why a bad motor mount would cause a starter to crack. The whole truck bounces around like crazy on rough roads regardless. I've had a bad motor mount before and it caused a relatively gentle rock back and forth of the engine but nothing jarring. As for the distributor that seems unlikely to me too because the problem went away completely after putting a new starter on. No grinding as if it was misaligned, no kickback, no problems. "If it is still kicking back on the starter when cranking hot engine" This makes me think though. Last time I had a no start the engine was hot as I had been plowing, I shut it off and came back a few minutes later and it did it's noisy kickback business and wouldn't start. I gave up and came back a couple hours later and I got it to start.
'84 K20 plow truck, not mine but I've been tasked with keeping it running the last 6 months. At the beginning of the winter I couldn't get it started. The starter would bang/grind and I could see the fan spin the correct way and then bang it'd go backwards a bit. I checked for a loose starter but I found that the starter had a hairline rack all the way through it. I replaced the started and all was well. Fast forward to the last few weeks and it's starting to do the same thing again but it usually still starts, for now. Starter isn't loose. Someone suggested there might be a starter brace that's supposed to be on there to keep starter from flexing and cracking when torqueing the engine over. I can not find any info on said starter brace. Can anyone enlighten me?
It Took me almost 3 hours to find somebody who had the correct O2 sensor in stock. Everybody wanted to give me one that had a male connection but mine has a female connection. I did finally get the O2 sensor replaced and I’m putting some miles on it and try to see if I can reproduce the problem so far it seems good thanks for the help.
I checked it out, that’s a no on both counts. Wire looks fine and connector is clean. Gonna throw in a new sensor and cross my fingers.
I towed my 9,000lb travel trailer from MN to NM, up to CO and WY and back to MN. We were 17,500 combined weight. The truck did fine, not great. With the cruise on it tried to do Raton pass(steep) at 5000 rpms and 55mph,seemed a bit high so I slowed her down to 45. This was the same as we went through CO and WY passes. Faster than semi trucks but slower than turbo pickup trucks. The worst was going through WY with 25mph+ headwind, 4,500 rpm+ for hours to do 55mph.. Noisy. Now it burns a little oil... Trans temp never went above 180f though.
Ok i calmed down and googled the codes. Faulty o2 sensors bank one, both front and rear, and a random misfire. My current guess is the the number one o2 is malfunctioning which is causing the engine to random misfire which is causing the rear o2 sensor to see an air mixture that it doesn't usually see. But why the service traction control?
Frits posted a question in Ask the GM TechnicianThe truck is a 2011 2500 gas and has ran great the year that I've had it. Just came up on 105,000 miles. I had a no start last week when it was -30f but I jumped it and it's been fine since. Today i tried to remote start it and it just tried to crank for half a second, no start, wouldn't go again so I had to go out and start it myself and it fired right up. The CEL came on after this but it ran fine on my hour drive to work. The hour drive home turned into an hour and a half with snow and it ran fine until I was idling at a gas station in park. Idle went down to 500 rpms and was rough, no surging, rpms didn't vary much. As I was leaving town again the CEL started flashing and the service traction light came on, also i noticed some surging like as if i had given it more gas. After about a minute of driving the flashing stopped and the traction message went away. It happened again like this and stopped again. When i got back on the highway it ran fine as far as i could tell but traffic was only doing 35mph. I got the following codes of my cheap scanner. P0030 P0053 P0135 P0137 P01133/P1133? P0300 When i got the truck at 90,000miles there was a box under the back seat with old spark plugs and a couple coils, your guess is as good as mine as to if/when the ignition system was serviced but it seems like they might have had a similar problem then. Any ideas? Thanks.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 32 Members, 0 Anonymous, 275 Guests (See full list)
- Retired Bob
- Kevin S
- ron mexico75
- Will Brownlie