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Gecko50

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  1. Yes it shows it in that link, it has trailer pics of the back ramp. Chuck
  2. Ok I found this on the web and credit the original poster. But this is a detailed on how to remove the console it takes time BUT makes all life easier. You will need those plastic tools to remove interior panels. The hardest part was removing the dash trim around the radio assembly. The second hardest part was putting together the side panel and making sure it slipped into the slot. You WILL NEED Microsoft Office / word to view this. It will down load to you computer. Chuck How To remove console.docx
  3. Good morning Mike. I was wondering did you or will you use a twisted shielded cable for the TMPS signal conductor. If you used a shielded wire normally its grounded at the supply / source end. Are you grounding the shielded wire or are you just using twisted shielded cable. Thanks Chuck
  4. Ok this is great info. I will be moving my trailer TMPS receiver very soon. Thanks Chuck
  5. If by chance the next time in service for the receiver maybe grab a photo of that part. would be nice. Thanks Chuck
  6. This is music to my ears. But the final question is that can you run the truck without a trailer TMPS receiver? and how will that effect the on board systems with missing TMPS trailer receiver? will it generate codes. Also IF I was to permeant install a new TMPS under my trailer and make up a cable to my truck with a built in connector in the bed. Then I would have to disconnect the TMPS under the license plate? The reason I want to not remove any wiring or plugs to hook my trailer under the truck or license plate. A simple means but it would either mean removing the existing TMPS receiver leaving it out when not towing OR having a way to disable the on board receiver on the truck. Just trying to think of a easy way to tow. The last real question is that can you just install a new TMPS receiver and not require a dealer to program or code a new receiver for the trailer, even if you have 1 in operation at a time. basic can one run without receiver and or buy a new receiver and swap operation at a time to tow? will the change create problems? Chuck
  7. Ok reread your post above at least 10 times and broke it down. So you are saying that the main truck tires 4 or 6 tires appear to have its own TMPS receiver elsewhere on the truck. I also understand that the TMPS receiver that is located in back of the license plate is sole use is the trailer tires? So I am now curious just how long the extension can be made without affecting the CANN BUSS. You made a length of 30 feet, how much longer do you think it can be made? CN you attempt to make it 50 feet and if problems occur maybe 40 feet? I also understand that the orientation of the TMPS must be maintained. Now on your extension cable did you use an twisted pair only for signal and utilize straight wire for power? This IS a great start of resolving our TMPS issues. Chuck
  8. I am curious as to what are the front wheels reporting to the receiver? What is the new distance from the front wheels from the original rear license plate location of the receiver and the new location of the receiver on the trailer. Does it still pick up the TMPS front wheel signals, this would require a road trip on your trailer / truck. Where are you picking up power from (+ / - ) are you using the trailer power or the original power or using the trailer power? Have you made up a new jumper harness with the same connectors, or solder and splice to extend the factory harness to the receiver? I just got my connectors from Amazon for the factory TMPS receiver. Thanks Chuck sorry for all the questions.
  9. Yes I have also run the camera cable thru a conduit. You can open the camera and the cable will be able to be disconnected. Follow this link and your questions will be answered. https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9 Good luck Chuck
  10. Here is the camera views link, I forgot in the main text. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jcth3iGG6BSH5qDi6
  11. Yesterday I got my photos and also added captions to help others on what I accomplished. There are 2 links as the first was various cables from Pasternack and 1 was 4 feet and the second was 20 feet. The 20 foot Pasternack is in a 1/2 EMT electrical conduit. The 4 foot was utilized to relocated the bumper camera receptacle into the bed. I swapped the receptacles between the bed and the bumper. This relocated the 4 pin trailer connector from the bed to the bumper. This link also shows the factory cable at the camera https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9 The second link is to show how I installed the 1/2 EMT conduit in the wall of my trailer which runs in the ceiling to the rear of the trailer. The first 3 photos shows the wall open. The rest of the photos shows the rear cameras like the mirror and the camper camera views. This should give a angle and what you would see. Chuck
  12. L8T, so I was thinking I have my 48 foot trailer as noted above. Thinking of the factory TMPS receiver conflict with the one that is located behind the rear truck plate. I have enough distance to place the second TMPS (new) receiver to the rearward of all three axles. This is a lot further than 23 feet. It would be parallel the factory one and I would think its not a conflicting signal no programing would be needed? The main problem I may encounter is the longer cable length of the twisted pair. I could tap into my 12 volt on board trailer power so only the twisted pair would be a sole cable also reducing the interference of the 12 volt power. What's your thought? Chuck
  13. Ok I ran the original cable from the truck bed with ample slack so it had enough when I went I to a full jack knife turn. The cable is well protected for use under the trailer as I zip tied it to a large 1-1/2 EMT conduit supplying 12 volts to my DC power panel and 8000# winch. I ran 1/2" EMT in the ceiling and 1 90* elbow bent to go down the wall to under the trailer. I used a extra bushing so it won't get damaged, I also used "electrical duct seal" it's a clay like brick to seal conduits to deter rodents and bees going into the conduits.I connected the 20' extension which will snap and lock together. I used 1 thin layer of 33+ tape to hold both cables making 1 pass of tape. I pulled the Pasternack cable to the top rear inside the trailer. I used a wire loom and covered the Pasternack cable passing thru the trailer rear wall and some slack to the camera. You can see the previous link on how I did the camera housing entry. I have to make sure you understand it was a tight and firm pull the get the GM cable end around / thru that 90* bend. I actually went to Lowes used the 1/2 EMT bender on a full length of EMT. They looked at me, I said I just bent it but it's a straight pipe lol. So I would also recommend clear poly lube wire lube slobbered around the pasternack and GM connection in the EMT bends. Good Luck Chuck
  14. If you look close at the photos I made. I have multiple close up of the camera and how its made. It appears to be water proof although I would be safe to say not immersed or multiple meters Those that have the equinox cameras in hand can look again at the photos. You can also see the camera cable from the factory as well as the Pasternack cable I utilized to extend the camera 20 feet. If you could maybe take some photos to compare to my close ups. https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9
  15. Mike, yesterday I did order 2 pairs from Amazon and should be here shortly. Thanks again. I also posed several questions as noted above and see how it comes out. I think with our extended lengths there will need to be 2 receivers one to cover the front tires as well as the rear trailer tires. So IA am hoping this will work? Chuck
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