JH1973

Crutchfield recommends not trying to change out the head unit on so many of the newer vehicles because of the complexity in these infotainment systems.

Is the one in your hand there what you need to fit pins into? Can you take a picture that good of the male pins that go into those from the stock tweeter? I just want to see what style the male pins are.

I have tons of different pins in different sizes and I'm sure one would slide right in to the stock connector. You could just pin the tweeter wires,slide them in and tape it off securely. Way better than cutting any factory wire. Some people don't mind cutting into their factory wire and I'm definitely not one of them.....:)

I wouldn't be surprised if the harness that works in the door would work in the dash as well. GM tends to keep those the same,at least they have on a lot of their models. Order a set of those from Crutchfield and if they don't work then just return them OR try to doctor them to make em work.....like maybe removing the pins from the connector itself and inserting them into the stock pins.Who knows,they might fit?? Another thing you could use are posi taps. They are much less invasive than typical splicing.In any case if you go a route that you have to manipulate it then email me and I'll give you the wiring colors on each side so you're not guessing.

On the newer Bose amps in the trucks the front dash tweeters are on their own channels.On the non-Bose systems the front door woofer and tweeter are parallel or 1-channel on each side. Hope that clears it up...:)

You can't upgrade from an IOR to an IOU without significant rewiring and even then I'm not sure it's possible. You would need new radio connectors across the board as well. Every system(IOR-IOS-IOT-IOU-IO5-IO6-IOB) has a unique wiring pattern for all of the data and control wires so making a switch would seem to be very cumbersome.

I've never understood why car manufacturers are so anti-aftermarket audio and do nothing to make it easier for the owner to add his own sound system. It's probably a liability thing,who knows? Personally I think it would be a good selling point if a manufacturer provided the necessary RCA's and speaker harnesses for adding your own gear. I get a kick out of reading posts that boast about how good the Bose sound systems are.It's quite obvious in many cases that the person either works for Bose or GM or both. I've been around car audio for 30 years and have won competitions.I can tell you with absolute certainty that Bose OEM sound systems don't even come close to comparing to a properly installed,high quality aftermarket system.The simple 2-way front and sub set-up in my current vehicle that is only around 800 watts total absolutely blows people away that listen to it.

By the way, if anybody is interested in trying my idea above as an alternative to the NavTV unit, I can build and sell you the necessary harnesses to do this.Just email me at [email protected]

An alternative plan to the NavTV unit is to use a DSP that accepts signal from a tablet or phone.Use the tablet/phone to play your music and just use the Bose amp to play the factory chimes,beeps and radio through a speaker that you mount under the dash somewhere. You'd need to buy harnesses for the speaker outputs if you want to make it easy and just utilize the factory wiring that is already in place.You'll also need a harness that bypasses the Bose output audio signals and yet gives you that front left output to hook to the speaker that you'll mount under the dash.

Stock sub is not connected to any of those harnesses in the picture.Did you pull those out of the Bose amp? If so they are just signal or data wires. .

Exploid,no it doesn't. There are 4 different types of non-Bose systems and they are all self amplified. On another note, I have read a lot of posts on here about this NavTv unit for the Bose systems and I must say that for the money people pay for these(in the $600 range) the performance seems very poor. That is disappointing because I was thinking that was definitely the way to go as far as upgrading an entire system in a truck with the factory Bose. Seemed way better than getting post amp signals. I think maybe that company should have thoroughly tested the unit before releasing it to the public.

You can split the subwoofer signal and use both inputs on the LC2i. The rear doors are the worst place to get signal from in these trucks(and most GM's for that matter).It's not full range I guarantee that.Probably bandpassed from like 150hz to 2000hz. I'd like to get into one of these and go through the outputs with a DMM and test tones just to see how Bose sets up the processing in that amp.

If you take that to a dealer to have the problem fixed be sure to pull all of your audio gear and cover up those wire splices as good as you can because you have voided the electrical warranty and possibly the entire vehicle warranty by splicing into the wiring.

Not only are people hesitant but even Crutchfield recommends not replacing the factory head unit in many vehicles now.Aftermarket HU's are going to be a thing of the past soon unless these companies like Pioneer,Kenwood,etc start figuring out how to integrate into factory systems.Problem is that the technology is so complex and therefore too expensive to make it available to the average consumer.

Both the AmpPro and NavTV Zen units act as virtual replacements of the stock Bose amplifier. Neither of the units use the "post amp" Bose signal but rather they use the actual CanBus(MOST serial data) signals that come from the stock source unit. The modules convert the data signals into analog full range line level RCA signals usable for most aftermarket amplifiers. I was curious about that myself so I did some research and looked at some random late model Sierra diagrams in my database.I checked the connectors that the AmpPro uses at the stock source unit.It uses 2 of the connectors at the SU,both of which contain the MOST serial data and the other important low speed GMLAN data signals.The question is which module has higher quality inner components and reliability between the AmpPro and Zen units?

I would like to thank you guys on this thread that have given me good reviews(I'm John-1pocket). I'm very humbled by your comments and am extremely grateful that you've given me a chance to help you out. My preferred contact email is [email protected] but if you are having issues with that address then try [email protected] I know in the past you've read some guys say they've received their order very quickly and sometimes that was the case.However,in recent months my business has really grown and I'm typically not able to deliver so quickly.I don't scratch people's ears,I tell them the truth as I work a full time job(50+ hours a week) and do this harness business on the side so sometimes things can get a bit backed up.But know this,when you order a harness from me you will always get an honest lead time. Feel free to ask me any questions here and I'll do my best to answer so that it may benefit the whole group.

The Fix86 is certainly a fine choice but by no means a "must" for Non-Bose systems.Many have ran their stock speaker signals straight into the speaker level inputs of a 4ch amplifier and used the RCA passthrough to feed signal to their mono bass amp yielding fantastic results.

That NavTV unit is only going to work on a factory Bose system.It replaces the stock amp basically.The I0R base system has completely different connectors and wiring configurations.

You could send the Ethernet bus signals and low speed gmlan data circuit into a Bose amplifiers X4 connector on the proper pin locations but the issue is that the Bose amp doesn't have the circuitry for radio controls like volume up/down....power on/off etc. I just don't see how you could get that to work,I wouldn't even try it.You're better off just upgrading what you have with aftermarket gear.

That harness will work in your truck then.

Keep in mind that if his harness is for subwoofer integration only then you'll have to cut the speaker wires in the middle of it and route them accordingly.If his harness is already set up for doing a full system then you're good to go.

It will work if you have the IOR infotainment system.There are 5 other system types(IO5-IO6-IOB-IOS-IOU) and if you have one of them then his harness will not work.

Just adding new speakers is a waste of time and money.You'll hear very little,if any improvement in the sound.Aftermarket speakers need a good amplifier to shine.Like Chewpeg said,just adding a subwoofer and amp will dramatically improve the sound and it is not that difficult to do.

That NavTV unit looks fantastic.Pricey but it takes the Databus signals and converts them into analog signals for an amp.I'm very surprised they don't come with the speaker output connectors for the other 2 plugs at the Bose amplifier.Maybe they sell them separately?

Chewpeg,I wanted to ask because you were concerned about the post Bose amp signal and how that would affect your system overall.How did that turn out? Did you have any signal or phase issues ?