JH1973

I would like to thank you guys on this thread that have given me good reviews(I'm John-1pocket). I'm very humbled by your comments and am extremely grateful that you've given me a chance to help you out. If anybody ever has a problem reaching my email,just try sending me one at [email protected] I know in the past you've read some guys say they've received their order very quickly and sometimes that was the case.However,in recent months my business has really grown and I'm typically not able to deliver so quickly.I don't scratch people's ears,I tell them the truth as I work a full time job(50+ hours a week) and do this harness business on the side so sometimes things can get a bit backed up.But know this,when you order a harness from me you will always get an honest lead time. Feel free to ask me any questions here and I'll do my best to answer so that it may benefit the whole group.

The Fix86 is certainly a fine choice but by no means a "must" for Non-Bose systems.Many have ran their stock speaker signals straight into the speaker level inputs of a 4ch amplifier and used the RCA passthrough to feed signal to their mono bass amp yielding fantastic results.

That NavTV unit is only going to work on a factory Bose system.It replaces the stock amp basically.The I0R base system has completely different connectors and wiring configurations.

You could send the Ethernet bus signals and low speed gmlan data circuit into a Bose amplifiers X4 connector on the proper pin locations but the issue is that the Bose amp doesn't have the circuitry for radio controls like volume up/down....power on/off etc. I just don't see how you could get that to work,I wouldn't even try it.You're better off just upgrading what you have with aftermarket gear.

That harness will work in your truck then.

Keep in mind that if his harness is for subwoofer integration only then you'll have to cut the speaker wires in the middle of it and route them accordingly.If his harness is already set up for doing a full system then you're good to go.

It will work if you have the IOR infotainment system.There are 5 other system types(IO5-IO6-IOB-IOS-IOU) and if you have one of them then his harness will not work.

You can use a DSP or an LC7i but do not use both as that is completely unnecessary.DSP's typically have high level inputs and can do vastly more with the incoming signal.

Awesome! Glad you got it sounding the way you want or at least close enough.I tell people all the time that once you experience a DSP's capabilities(time alignment,Xovers,PEQ,etc) you will NEVER go back to passive again.When those vocals are coming from the center of the windshield and it seems as if your dashboard is a stage it just takes car audio to the next level!

With your setup only thing I can think is to go into the DSP and use the GEQ or PEQ to cut higher frequencies down where it's not so piercing.

Ok,I'm not totally familiar with all the different trims and such for the GM trucks.I have access to all the schematics on them and build audio harnesses for people wanting to add aftermarket audio gear.That being said the people with Bose factory systems actually have it tougher when wanting to upgrade because of all the processing that Bose amp does.That's why I am steering people that want to do an all out upgrade(doors,dash and subs) to the NavTV Zen unit that transforms the MOST serial data into full range line level RCA outputs.They are clean,full range signals that you can build a solid system off of. But for people with the Bose systems that just want to add a subwoofer amp and sub that NavTV unit is way overkill.They can simply use the post Bose amp sub signal and they're fine.Now people with Non-Bose systems are actually in the best boat for adding aftermarket gear because the signals are not processed and can be sent into any line converter,DSP or high level amplifier inputs and come out with good results.

If your Trail Boss is newer(you didn't indicate the year) then you cannot tap the signals from the head unit to the amp.Reason is because everything now is Can-bus data and those signals cannot be sent into audio gear that uses analog signals.In the older Bose systems yes you could tap the signals because they were analog.You definitely need to tap the post Bose amp outputs to get a signal unless you are willing to buy the NavTV unit that converts the serial data into line level RCA's(cost is $600.00).

Just adding new speakers is a waste of time and money.You'll hear very little,if any improvement in the sound.Aftermarket speakers need a good amplifier to shine.Like Chewpeg said,just adding a subwoofer and amp will dramatically improve the sound and it is not that difficult to do.

That NavTV unit looks fantastic.Pricey but it takes the Databus signals and converts them into analog signals for an amp.I'm very surprised they don't come with the speaker output connectors for the other 2 plugs at the Bose amplifier.Maybe they sell them separately?

Chewpeg,I wanted to ask because you were concerned about the post Bose amp signal and how that would affect your system overall.How did that turn out? Did you have any signal or phase issues ?