Chewpeg,I wanted to ask because you were concerned about the post Bose amp signal and how that would affect your system overall.How did that turn out? Did you have any signal or phase issues ?
NEW for all Non-Bose systems......Add a Kicker Keysmart amplifier to any Non-Bose system harness.This combo package comes with 4ft of wire leads to easily reach a spot under the dash area to mount the compact Key amplifier.All the wire leads are connected via solder and heat shrink tubing to the amplifiers connectors so that all you'll need to do is plug the connectors into the amplifier and run a 12v power and ground wire. This unit does not require a line converter and is an excellent way to upgrade the sound for your vehicles front and rear speakers.The harness that comes with this package will also provide you with a pair of subwoofer output wire leads in case you plan to add a subwoofer amplifier to the system.Add this to any harness above for an additional $265.00. Kicker Key Smart and harness combination package includes: 1. Plug-n-play integration harness with 4ft of wire leads pre-terminated to the amplifiers connectors 2.Kicker Keysmart amplifier 3.Two channels of high level output for adding a subwoofer amplifier
Regarding that loud fan,read post #25 in this thread link here.Guy mentions 2 replacement fans that are much quieter..... Thoughts on Mmats HiFi-6150D? Or something similar? https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407047
Yo Chewpeg,you need to give a report on that Mmats amp! I've been eyeballing that thing and my fingers have come VERY close to clicking that purchase link......:)
Agree with others that amp gains are the culprit to loud chimes.The best thing is to use a line converter or DSP that is capable of pumping enough signal voltage into the amp inputs so that the gains don't need to be turned up at all. For example,say the amplifiers input sensitivity range is 500mv- 4v.You'd want the DSP or line converter sending as close to 4v to the amp inputs as possible.
Not offended at all,just making it clear in case others might be confused......:)
The guy that I was answering has a Non- Bose system so his wiring diagram is completely different than yours. I don't know if that's what you were alluding to or not but I'm just making myself clear here.
Here's a PDF showing how to remove that rear seat for you guys that need access to the Bose amp on the back wall.I hope this helps some people out. Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf
Yeah,if your DSP has HL inputs then adding an LC8 is kind of a waste.Why risk putting something else in the electrical chain that can possibly cause noise when it is unnecessary?
Your front dash tweeters are wired in parallel with your front door woofers.The factory just puts some type of cheap resistor inline by the tweeter for a HP. Your system has 4 outputs (2 front and 2 rear)....no independent Tweeter outputs. Let me know if you need a wiring diagram for it,I can help you out.PM me here
JH1973 replied to ghilliegun's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMIt's at the base of the center console.You'll need to remove the console to access it.
Those JL amps are sweet,both the HD and XD lines.I have the XD500(3 channel) and the thing which amazes me is how long I can pound it and it barely gets warm.My Fosgate Punch runs the door woofers(6.5's) and it gets too hot to even touch. Great looking install by the way,super clean.
Shoot me an email at [email protected] can sell you a microphone bypass harness that plugs into your Bose amp which will make your problems disappear.It takes seconds to install and you don't have to cut any wires,etc just plug and go.
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