JH1973

Crutchfield recommends not trying to change out the head unit on so many of the newer vehicles because of the complexity in these infotainment systems.

Is the one in your hand there what you need to fit pins into? Can you take a picture that good of the male pins that go into those from the stock tweeter? I just want to see what style the male pins are.

I have tons of different pins in different sizes and I'm sure one would slide right in to the stock connector. You could just pin the tweeter wires,slide them in and tape it off securely. Way better than cutting any factory wire. Some people don't mind cutting into their factory wire and I'm definitely not one of them.....:)

I wouldn't be surprised if the harness that works in the door would work in the dash as well. GM tends to keep those the same,at least they have on a lot of their models. Order a set of those from Crutchfield and if they don't work then just return them OR try to doctor them to make em work.....like maybe removing the pins from the connector itself and inserting them into the stock pins.Who knows,they might fit?? Another thing you could use are posi taps. They are much less invasive than typical splicing.In any case if you go a route that you have to manipulate it then email me and I'll give you the wiring colors on each side so you're not guessing.

On the newer Bose amps in the trucks the front dash tweeters are on their own channels.On the non-Bose systems the front door woofer and tweeter are parallel or 1-channel on each side. Hope that clears it up...:)

You can't upgrade from an IOR to an IOU without significant rewiring and even then I'm not sure it's possible. You would need new radio connectors across the board as well. Every system(IOR-IOS-IOT-IOU-IO5-IO6-IOB) has a unique wiring pattern for all of the data and control wires so making a switch would seem to be very cumbersome.

I've never understood why car manufacturers are so anti-aftermarket audio and do nothing to make it easier for the owner to add his own sound system. It's probably a liability thing,who knows? Personally I think it would be a good selling point if a manufacturer provided the necessary RCA's and speaker harnesses for adding your own gear. I get a kick out of reading posts that boast about how good the Bose sound systems are.It's quite obvious in many cases that the person either works for Bose or GM or both. I've been around car audio for 30 years and have won competitions.I can tell you with absolute certainty that Bose OEM sound systems don't even come close to comparing to a properly installed,high quality aftermarket system.The simple 2-way front and sub set-up in my current vehicle that is only around 800 watts total absolutely blows people away that listen to it.

By the way, if anybody is interested in trying my idea above as an alternative to the NavTV unit, I can build and sell you the necessary harnesses to do this.Just email me at [email protected]

An alternative plan to the NavTV unit is to use a DSP that accepts signal from a tablet or phone.Use the tablet/phone to play your music and just use the Bose amp to play the factory chimes,beeps and radio through a speaker that you mount under the dash somewhere. You'd need to buy harnesses for the speaker outputs if you want to make it easy and just utilize the factory wiring that is already in place.You'll also need a harness that bypasses the Bose output audio signals and yet gives you that front left output to hook to the speaker that you'll mount under the dash.

Stock sub is not connected to any of those harnesses in the picture.Did you pull those out of the Bose amp? If so they are just signal or data wires. .

Exploid,no it doesn't. There are 4 different types of non-Bose systems and they are all self amplified. On another note, I have read a lot of posts on here about this NavTv unit for the Bose systems and I must say that for the money people pay for these(in the $600 range) the performance seems very poor. That is disappointing because I was thinking that was definitely the way to go as far as upgrading an entire system in a truck with the factory Bose. Seemed way better than getting post amp signals. I think maybe that company should have thoroughly tested the unit before releasing it to the public.

You can split the subwoofer signal and use both inputs on the LC2i. The rear doors are the worst place to get signal from in these trucks(and most GM's for that matter).It's not full range I guarantee that.Probably bandpassed from like 150hz to 2000hz. I'd like to get into one of these and go through the outputs with a DMM and test tones just to see how Bose sets up the processing in that amp.

Unless the GM schematics I have are wrong the 2019's and up do not have ANC. For some reason, GM stopped equipping the trucks with that feature. I know because I build audio wiring harnesses for these trucks and have all the schematics from 2007-2020. The X3 connector at the Bose amp contained all the microphone wires and on these newer ones there is only 1 wire going into it for data transfer.

The audio common is the inverted signal on a balanced input.Unlike unbalanced inputs where there is basically a shield and a signal, a balanced input has a hot signal and also an inverted signal that is completely out of phase with the hot signal. The inverted signal is also known as the audio common.

If you take that to a dealer to have the problem fixed be sure to pull all of your audio gear and cover up those wire splices as good as you can because you have voided the electrical warranty and possibly the entire vehicle warranty by splicing into the wiring.