topgear1224

I should probably clarify at low RPMs the engine is effectively "mini-lugging" for efficiency. It is actually making a good amount of torque and that's where it's most efficient. that's why everybody says the lower your RPMs are the better fuel mileage that you'll get. (Assuming you can hold it without pinging) For instance on my 3 liter diesel at 60 miles an hour in 9th gear on a flat road it's generating approximately 180 to 190 lb-ft of torque according to the ecm. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Dfm does not care about driving mode it will activate in sport mode and it will activate in tow haul mode. Your dealertech is blowing smoke at you. (the algorithms are different for how it activates and how it behaves in those modes but it does still dynamically manage the fuel.) But let them go ahead and replace the ECU maybe he saw some other things. the scary part is normally if he's looking at a bunch of values that seem crazy and he thinks it's an ECU it's probably not the ECU those are probably the real values. All I can say is when you get it back make sure you don't have an RPM dependant vibration. use L mode to bring her up to high RPMs in 3rd (probably need to be on the highway) don't floor it as It will unlock the torque converter just work her up there at about 1/2 throttle. if you're getting violent vibrations it's the internals of the motor. just so you know if you lift off the gas and then put it back in drive after being at high RPMs it's going to like lurch and slam. I found the easy way to smooth out is to keep your throttle at about 1/4 and then go from L to D you're still going to get a little bit of a firm shift but it'll settle out and once it settles out you don't have to worry about it shifting hard. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I have a 3 .0 and I can see when it's regenerating or not on the scanner. the noxious eye burning fumes is from the def injection at idle. the 3.0 does not have the ability to self regenerate at idle, like the big trucks. It is possible that she pulled into the garage during a regen but the 3.0 can't really regen itself unless you're at a constant speed above 40 because it can't get its DPF temp high enough. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

It's def injection not regeneration. Regeneration is when the engine squirts fuel during the exhaust stroke to heat up the DPF to burn away the soot. DEF gets injected into the scr to control emissions until the vehicle is up to temp. Or whenever the sensor detects excessive amounts of Nox are being created. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

if you're looking for jump packs just avoid all of the lithium ones. lithium batteries can provide a ton of power for 5 to 10 seconds and on a diesel with glow plugs that's not enough time to actually start the engine and once you go past that 5 to 10 seconds you're looking at maybe 30 amps coming out of the lithium pack. (Winter would be the concern here.) Lead acid jump packs are much heavier but they can actually give you their rated cranking amps for 30 seconds. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Now it's a single battery with a 220 amp alternator. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

So it's actually honking because it thinks that the remote is not inside the truck anymore. so for instance if I have my truck running and remote in my pocket and I get out of my truck and close the door to go into the gas station it honks three times. it's just one of those things that's going to happen with a keyless entry system. could GM have done a better job as far as it correctly identifying if the key is inside or outside of the truck? of course, but it is what it is. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

It's likley the DFM. On the new trucks GM is pushed dfm literally to the limits as far as how long it stays with deactivated cylinders under heavier loads. It also will round robin which cylinders it wants to fire. It feels like a strong misfire in certain situations. If it is REALLY bad could be the trans mount issue. Basically under low speed high torque the drive shaft actually begins to lift up the rear of the transmission which makes the u-joints shudder. Does it still happen in 4-hi? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

the GM kit will just raise the static height and will not add any extra travel. you are trading height for droop travel. if a lift kit doesn't include UCA i would assume it doesn't add any travel. (not 100% true but most current kits is true. Due to the old issues with driveline/ balljoint angles, most kits just trade droop for tire to fender clearance.) up to 35% more front travel with stage 2+ kits. (stage 1 is 25%) https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/products/?fit=1&model=Silverado 1500 you can piece together your own kit. i would suggest: front icon front extended coilovers 71606 Tubular UCA 78620DJ Rear M-27 www.camburg.com/ a shock with the same specs as these should work (extended, compressed lengths. - these are "1.8 inch piston" shocks compared to the icon's "2.5 shock" ) https://www.roughcountry.com/v2-monotube-shock-absorber-760738a.html?find=2019-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-568358 i will likely be doing UCA with Fox DSC shocks front and rear . and custom rear leaf springs from deaver. OR if i cant fit bigger than 33 anyways go with a custom Icon stage 4 with factory rake.

Ahh, at first I was like OMG he wants to lift then tow 13k..... With GM saying it isn't compatible, the dealer will of course cover the labor they do, but GM won't cover the parts in an unapproved application. So if the shock seal blows you likely would have to work a deal with the dealership. The first thing I would determine is how slow you are willing to go off road. We have long wheelbases so rockcrawling is unlikely. Also need to decide how comfortable you require the ride to be off road. And finally for the "value" question how often do you drive off road vs on road. If you are looking for something simple you can try the lower and upper spacer level kits. Completely reversible if you don't like it. Cheap. Good starting point. Throw a small generic block in the rear and see how you like it. Unlocking extra travel gets expensive FAST. My kit will probably be $6k+ Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

You will not have a warranty if you only install part of the kit (assuming you're talking about the Chevrolet Performance kit) so you might as well go and get a leveling let's from somebody else. For much cheaper. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Always shop the vehicle not the deal. It's a 1/2 ton, it will squat. Airbags will help that but then you lose most of your downward articulation. (I would be buying a 100% custom long travel set.) The front struts issue will show up when trying to turn or stop as the weight shifts. All this assumes that you are going to exploit the 17,800 GCWR. (6.2 max tow) Basically if you are gonna actually tow over 9k you aren't going to really want to play with these suspensions much. To answer your question the kits will fit. whether or not the lift kits that are compatible with crew cab short beds are compatible with crew cab standard beds? you'll have to ask the manufacturer. it's likely the rear driveshaft angle would be the limiting factor. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

only stock wheels lift kits are currently compatible with are the 20's due to knuckle interference. level kits don't have that issue though.

i have spent the last 2 weeks looking at suspension options. if you are going to lift the truck, most companies kits wont work with stock wheels. the ones that do only work with the 20's, so you are good there. I have the 275/60R20 as well. most lift kits say i need a 3 inch to go 33's (which i already have), and a 6inch to go to 35's........... still waiting on emails back not trying to go that high with all the ice up here in Alaska, and since i tend to max my payload out when towing. if that is the case i will just grab some Icons, have a custom spring pack made and throw some air bags on it. "Max Trailering Package, includes 9.76" rear axle, (GU6) 3.42 axle ratio, enhanced cooling radiator, revised shock tuning for increased control, heavier duty rear springs, increased RGAWR and (KW5) 220-amp alternator" front spring capacity is 3700 lbs. or 3800 lbs. (4x2, 4x4) for all CC models, NHT increases rear from 3850 lbs. to 4150 lbs.. A lot of kits state they are only compatible with crew cab short beds, (I have an LM2 CC Standard bed so double no-go for me.) The downward travel on these suspensions is not just limited by the strut there is a "limit tab" towards the rear of the strut cradle ( Droop limiter) upward travel is limited by the bump stop located at in the upper strut housing. (compression limiter) All this means is that longer struts alone will not increase travel however may move the ride height up within the factory range. (trading downward travel for height, similar to maxing out torsion arms.) Over-sized knuckles could increase travel but you have to watch your drive line and ball joint angles. lift kits will be built around non-NHT trucks, this means you could end up with a kit that "lowers" your towing capacity. (not enough shock for the max tow springs, if it replaces the springs, spring rate will be built on non-NHT rates) The shock rate is why Chevy excluded NHT trucks from its 2 inch lift kit.