Dropping price to $50. I'd rather see someone be able to use this than cut it up, so if you have any interest, let me know. Thanks.
Bad17BowtieZ71 started following SOLD - Custom Subwoofer Box with Seat Lift - 2006 Silverado EC
So I traded my 2006 Extended Cab Silverado 1500 in and took the custom sub box I had made for it out before trading it in. It requires using a rear seat lift kit, which is included, and was originally purchased from a member on the forums and honestly made the rear seat better to sit in anyways. The sub box I made out of 3/4" mdf, glued, screwed, and sealed the subwoofer chamber. The sub is an Image Dynamics IDQ12 in a down-firing configuration. I always thought it produced clean bass and could easily get to some "too loud" volumes for myself. My priorities have changed now and with little ones in the truck all the time, I don't have the desire to re-use it in my new truck. 2/3 of the box has a removable lid that was used for storage of jumper cables, tow strap, that kind of stuff. The gray carpet matched the factory pretty well in my opinion also. I'm asking $80 obo. I'm located in Holland, MI, but would be willing to negotiate a meet somewhere nearby.
So I finally had an opportunity to try the tint experiment this weekend. I recently had my front windows tinted and the tint shop was nice enough to give me a scrap of the tint to try this with. Long story short, it didn't do anything. It obviously tinted everything through the camera, but it did nothing for the brightness aspect. It has to be a programming thing when going into reverse only at night. Hopefully GM will fix this and issue an update for it (haha), it is very annoying!
Dodge's reputation for drive-train problems steered me away from them. I've never owned one, and maybe have driven them once or twice, but just couldn't see driving my family around in something I wasn't sure if I could trust, regardless of how well founded that feeling may have been. Ford makes some nice trucks with the 6.2 gas engine and some of the extra options you can get, but there were two things that steered me away. First, when I was pricing them out compared to the GM trucks, they seemed to come out more expensive when I tried my best to make them equal. Second was the fact that they don't have the LATCH system in their super duty trucks. As a family with a 2 and 4 year old, they will be in booster seats for a while, that was a huge killer. I know you can just use the seat belt, but the LATCH seems to hold the seat much tighter and is much more convenient in my opinion. The GM trucks provided a power-train (6.0) that may be a little dated and "under-powered" when compared to Ford's, but it seems to be the most reliable/bullet-proof/proven combo around and the SOTP feel isn't much different. (I'm sure we've all seen the Ike Pass video where the GM truck beat the time of the others, just goes to show there isn't much difference despite the seemingly large differences in numbers.) That combined with the LATCH in the rear seat, lower equivalent prices, and the fact that I grew up in a GM home, led me to my current truck. Finding one with the options we wanted on a lot helped too. I don't regret it for a minute either. I'm not completely blind either, I know this truck isn't perfect, the lack of rear seat vents annoys me, but I probably won't ever ride back there myself and running the HVAC on high for a little while seems to equal it all out pretty quickly so it's not too bad. EDIT: I wanted to add that I prefer the height of the GM trucks being a little lower than the others also. My truck sits high enough as it is, and since we have an older fifth wheel right now, it was a lot easier to get the heights acceptable to give me enough clearance to tow it than it would have been with a Ford or Dodge. I still had to add drop shackles in the rear, but I'm sure it would have been more than that on the others.
This describes my tendencies pretty close as well with the 10 over on highways and 5 over on surface roads typically as my max, but generally just staying with the flow of traffic especially on highways. I also agree with the speed differential hazard comment. In my opinion, going significantly slower is more dangerous than speeding by the same differential. When you are going slow you force everyone else on the road to go around you, however someone speeding, although still dangerous, only forces that person to go around everyone else, generally not interrupting your travel pattern much if at all.
I had a Fold-A-Cover on my previous truck that I purchased in 2006. It seemed like the best option available at the time. It served me well for 11 years, except both lock covers broke off and all of the seals split so it was far from water proof anymore (not complaining, that's bound to happen with age). For how I use my truck, I didn't need some of the features of the FAC on my new truck so I went looking for a different cover. In 11 years I used the front opening panel only a few times. Also, like revrnd's brother, the locks froze up on me in the winter. Between that, having to use a different key to lock/unlock it, and the finger grabs breaking off on the rear, I never used the separate opening feature of it either. I always opened the tailgate and just grabbed the bar inside to open the cover. I finally decided on the BakFlip MX4. So far I've been happy with it. It fits my usage a little better than the FAC since I always opened the tailgate to open my cover anyways. The MX4 has the tailgate seal that allows you to close either the tailgate or the cover first. There are no external locks to freeze up or lose the covers to. Plus with the locking tailgate on the new trucks, it is just as secure as the FAC was. It can still stack up right behind the cab and travel in that position like the FAC and it works with a fifth wheel, or I can tip it up against the cab and use all but a few inches of the bed (I really like this advantage over the FAC, but it basically comes down to preference of this or the front separately opening panel) And the last advantage for me personally was that it sits in between the bed sides rather than on top of them. For me, this little bit made a big difference with clearance for our fifth wheel since it's a little older model and doesn't sit as high as the new ones, I needed all the clearance I could get (and definitely used every last 1/16" of it on our last camping trip. Small side note on this too is that it leaves the hand grab hole at the back open, I never did figure out if the FAC blocked that or not. My brother in law liked my MX4 so much he got one for his new truck too.
This is what I've noticed also. Seems like it may be an aggressive auto brightness setting for the camera that when the reverse lights come on it over compensates for the additional light. Once you take it out of reverse, the extra light is gone, the display dims and is at a reasonable brightness for the second or two before the display goes back to whatever it was on before. It got me wondering if we could add "blinders" of some sort to block some of the light from getting to the camera lens? Or maybe a light layer of tint for the camera lens?
I like those tie-downs also. Are these from Bull Ring what you got? They look right and say they fit. As for spraying in those holes, I can't think of anything it would damage. You could always rinse it out after all the wasps are dead too.
The new trucks sit significantly higher than previous generations. I didn't check hitch height, but the top of the bed sides at the tailgate on my new 2017 (6.0 2500HD) are around 5 inches higher than my dad's 2006 (Duramax 2500HD). We just started checking all that this weekend for what I'm going to have to do to pull my fifth wheel.
Maybe I'm missing something in your post, but this is going to vary for each truck/trailer combo. Easiest way would be to hook up the trailer as you are going to travel with it and measure the height of the trailer at the ball. If it's not siting level then disconnect the trailer, level it out, then measure again. The difference is going to be how much additional drop/rise you need to adjust your hitch to be perfect.
Isn't there a break-in period that you're supposed to wait before towing something (certain number of miles I think)? Just curious because I'll likely be in the same situation when I get a new truck later this year. Thanks.
I agree with the PITA comment about extended cabs in general with car seats. I am really looking forward to a new crew cab truck later this year for that very reason. It looks like you only have one car seat in there though, which if that's the case, I think they typically recommend to put it in the middle if you can. That's what I did when we only had one, and it wasn't too bad for where the seats had to be positioned in the front to make it work. I didn't have to contend with the small front hinged door either though.
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