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Danyoda

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About Danyoda

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  1. Now on your first attempt was it rubbing on the liner or what exactly? I’m looking to push it on mine lol as close to 35’s as I can I hear you. Fortunately for me I live in the high heat desert and have never seen snow fall. You should look into Goodyear ultra terrain AT’s. I’ve seen a guy on YouTube who swears by them.
  2. Beautiful truck! Love the Centennial blue with the black Sludges. What’s your wheel and tire size?
  3. I ended up purchasing a .5” Motofab spacer. Based on what you said since it comes with 2” from the factory adding that .5” spacer should make the truck completely level. I didn’t want to mess anymore with the coilovers because I want a plush ride. Whole reason why I didn’t just to a 2.5” spacer in the beginning. Thank you for the info. Any pics of your truck?
  4. Okay that’s one of my questions answered. Thank you. My other one, do you know IF you had a spring compressor, how much more could you crank up the coilover? Like how much overall height is achievable.
  5. Did they come preset 2” to level from the factory?
  6. Is yours the same as mine? 985-02-018 is my model number. My coworker also has coilovers but his are a little different than mine. His truck is a 2016 mine is a 2018.
  7. Hey guys, so I purchased Fox 2.0 Coilovers for my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500. I wanted to get some recommendations. Now before I ask, I have to clarify my truck is a 2018 I know some may people comment because of 2014-2016 trucks but as far as I know there’s a slight difference between 2014-2016 and 2017-2018 1500’s. My whole goal is to get a perfectly level truck. No rake, no squat. Perfect level. I called Fox but they weren’t that helpful. The gentleman stated the Coilovers are pre set to give a 2” level out of the box. However in forums I’ve read the Coilovers come the same setting as a stock Rancho strut but are adjustable to gain you 2”. Now I’d like to know if that’s the case if they are stock size would it be best to crank it up to get the 2” level or would it be best to keep it at the stock setting and then add a small spacer on top of the Coilover. Not trying to go over 2.5”. I don’t want to replace my UCA’s anytime soon. Thanks guys! I can’t wait to add these bad boys!
  8. First off, price. No not reasonable. Unless we’re talking about front and rear Bilsteins. But if you go on eBay right now, the front pair for Bilstein 5100’s are $215. Install should be around $100 and alignment from $50-70. Look around other shops before you make your final decision. I don’t have a level or lift on my truck yet so I can’t supply any pictures. But the 1.85” will not eliminate the rake. You need about 2.3”-2.5” to eliminate the rake. If you want to eliminate the rake more you could add the Bilsteins and then remove the rear block but then you will run into issues if you tow. Lastly, fitting 33’s varies. I’ve seen people fit 33’s with no level or lift. However they were using aftermarket wheels not stocks. If you want to fit 33’s safely make sure you get a wheel with a 0 offset or no more than a -18 offset.
  9. Question, what do you mean between increasing wheels? Wheels is just the size of your rim that does not affect the ground clearance. Tire size does as well as lift. When it comes to leveling if you’re just going for the off road look, a 2” spacer is fine. That’ll cost you around $40-$50 plus install of another $100(unless you can do yourself) plus the price of the alignment because any time you mess with the suspension you have to get realigned. If you want the better ride quality with a lift then you would want to replace your front shocks with either adjustable struts or coilovers. Your cheapest option would be the Bilstein 5100’s which for the front pair is around $220 on eBay. That will give you slightly better ride quality and with the adjustment it would raise your truck about 1.8”. Coilovers for instance Fox 2.0’s can be adjusted to 2” but coilovers are more expensive Fox’s will run you around $800+ just for the fronts. Once you go over 2” you’re gonna start messing with the angles and you’re going to need to replace your upper control arms which can start making your build more expensive. Now tires/wheels. A coworker of mine currently runs a 2.5” motofab spacer on the front and he has 35” tires with 18” methods and he rubs. Now this isn’t the route I suggest you take. I would go with 33 inch tall tires and to prevent rubbing make sure they’re around 11 inches wide. I can’t give you the exact metric size of the tires in case you decide on changing the rims(wheels). Anything larger you’re gonna start rubbing and your MPG’s will start to deplete. I’m not sure if you know about offsets when it comes to wheels but that also plays a factor. Stock GM wheels have a positive offset between 18-27. What that means is because it is a positive offset, it pushes the tire more inside the wheel well and when you add larger tires you have a higher chance of rubbing. In order to fix that you would need to add wheel spacers to make your tires stick out an inch or so. Best option would be to get a new set of aftermarket wheels that have a 0 offset or between -1 to -18 I believe. Extra tip. This is just a simple mod and it becomes a personal preference. But if you remove the front air dam that gives you a little bit more clearance. I personally haven’t done any mods to my Sierra 1500 yet. But I’ve been doing research for months on this forum and I’ve learned a lot from here and the outside world. If you want to know what my plan is, I’m planning on getting Fox 2.0’s on my truck to get it leveled. Then I’m going to get some 34” tires with 18” Method wheels. I know I will rub but I’m not too concerned about it as I won’t be doing any off reading.
  10. In my opinion, plasti dipped does not look good on wheels. After a while the color starts to look flatter and flatter, basically fades. Removal is easy. But overall look is not good. Best option would be to powder coat them. And I’ve seen powder coat prices run from $400-$700. It really depends how much you want to keep that look. You should look into after marker wheels that come red so you don’t have to pay double in the end.
  11. I bought my 2018 Sierra SLT used(certified pre owned) back in October 2019. It had 21k miles at the time. Since then I’ve put around 6k. Not once have I had an issue with the 8 speed. It shifts smoother than my wife’s CVT.
  12. You can keep the Bilstein’s, however yes you will mess with your angles and your ride will suck. Only way to get away from this is if you do like a BDS lift for example. They supply a front differential drop bracket to prevent any bad angles and new tie rods and other stuff.
  13. 18” black? Or aluminum?
  14. Same. Before I purchased my 2018 Sierra I was researching for two years. Silverado’s, Sierra’s, Colorado’s, Tacoma’s, even the new Ranger. But like most of you I couldn’t wrap my head on paying the same amount on a mid-size as you would for a full size, especially when I plan on doing some light towing. Now I saw someone ask how we got our pricing, when I did my research a Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 or TRD Off Road 4x4 both were at $38,000-$40,000 same price as an LT Z71 Silverado Crew Cab with a 5.3 and you know Toyota you pay sticker because Tacoma’s sell regardless. I put into consideration my passengers and I knew putting them in a mid size like a Colorado or a Tacoma they’d be hunching their heads to get in and out and with a full size pickup there’s so much more room. I will never not own a full size pickup. The reason I went Sierra was because I purchased it late 2019 as a certified pre owned and the price I paid was great for the amount of miles and trim, and I wasn’t quite fond of the new body styles unless it was a Trail boss or AT4 but those were out of my budget.
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