The stuff with the Stabilitrack/steering and stuff started in October and have been to a GMC dealer. Was told that they couldn't replicate the issue. Asked them, so what, here is the issue, here is the service bulletin so fix it. Don't just glaze at it, take it apart and fix it. The first dealer actually blew me off so now its to another. I also filed a complaint with GMC and actually got a claim number. I won't let anyone else drive the truck because the steering can be a pit. I drive the wife's car to do things. had lots of suggestion to replace the battery even if it was only near the marginal line. Did that Saturday the 16th, another $200.00 bucks and nothing got remedied. So far out of pocket i'm looking at around $800.00. Truck is paid off so that's good. At my age (73) I thought I had bought my last truck. Looked a long time before I found this one. I guess I should have waited longer?
Well I just bought a new battery for this thing. Lesson learned taking the old one out. Got some new band aids on the right hand! So now we will take it for a short ride tomorrow and see if the thing goes wacko. In pursuit of finding ways to perhaps correct things, I just happened to notice in settings that i could reset the vehicle to its default settings? Hmmm- - - OK we did that and now we have a thing on the dash that says I'm an idiot - -- - - big red letters " CA " So I assume that means that I need to re --calibrate this thing at a dealer? If so, why did they put that thing so the consumer can reset things? I suppose its a good thing I don't get to go into space? Whats this button for? OOPS!!
Thanks for the info. The battery checked out big time even with my load tester, no where near a marginal battery would be. And yup- - - it is another dealer. I wouldn't take my lawn mower to the GMC dealer that initially did the so called work. I was a master mechanic way back when there weren't sensors and stuff in cars or trucks. Then I had brain fade and got into law enforcement. So then for the next 32 years, all I worried about was a clean and oiled weapon. Built hot-rods for sanity sake! This morning, the system went down just sitting at an intersection!! But now, just thinking, my C-5 had some gremlins that I couldn't track down, even with a multi-meter! Hung a new Optima in it and now its fine? Hmmm- - - - maybe- - - maybe!
Well here's the latest on-goings with my truck and it's issues. i couldn't find the G-218 grounding points even after removing the side trim, using mirrors and flashlights. If its there, its well hidden. The system keeps going down and after repeatedly talking to my dealer service reps haven't gotten anywhere.I haven't been able to talk to the service manager, but even after giving them the service bulletin that reflects all my trucks issues, they apparently don't care. Hmmm- - - So on Thursday of this week, running about 70 on a portion of Amarillo's 335 loop, the thing went dead to include the engine stalling out on the west curve! Now that was interesting to say the least. So -- - - - - - I called the customer support of GMC and filed a claim as my truck being unsafe. After a lengthy discussion of what has happened (good thing I document things) the dealer where I was , as I see it, being blown off, because they couldn't replicate its issues. They gave it a priority status and gave me a claim number and was told they should be in touch within 7 days. I did load test the battery and it tested very good. Then I took the thing to Auto Zone and had them load test it.got the same results. So- - - - if I don't hear from GMC in the next week, we will add a battery ground to the frame, engine to the frame and from the cab to the engine/frame. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, now I have both bulletins. To date, this morning, they haven't been able to replicate the initial issue. I called the dealer and spoke with my service writer and told her that if they couldn't replicate the issue, I'd pick-up my truck this afternoon. I inspected the battery harness and was not surprised to see not much of a terminal connection, i.e.; dirty and rusty? Hmmm -- - . Hopefully when the service tech installed the new one he did it correctly. So I will replace the original battery (if need be) after I drag out my old "Toaster" and check the battery condition. There are times when the old service tools work better than the new handy dandy stuff. As it has been explained to me on numerous times by my computer / programmer friends, anything with a hard drive or software, tends to wear out more so than good old fashioned camp fire and a blanket to send messages! Have a good week and thanks for the reply.
In doing some searching, I found some other fixes to resolve my issues as done by other owners. Apparently what they have done to rectify the problem is to place additional negative grounds. All these are from the negative battery terminal. One cable to the trucks frame, another to the engine block and finally one to the body itself. They all advocate making a positive grounding area, i.e., grinding a spot for the new ground, using "Earth bolts"? etc. All have to be run thru the existing ground cable sensor located near the battery. What we in the hotrod world (At least mine anyway) usually do is to run the negative cable to the frame, another from the engine to the frame and one from the body to the frame. In the case of fiberglass bodies, from the grounding panel or terminal block inside the car to the frame or engine block. The alternator is grounded to the engine block also. (extra wire) Now considering that these cars usually don't run sensors at all, mayhaps those suggestion of running the extra cables to resolve these grounding issues on these new vehicles isn't such a bad idea? Thoughts on this? I'm waiting for the dealer to call and tell me they found the issue with my 2016 GMC.
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Forgot to add this note from the dealer. Concern / cause: Scanned alot of no communication to ecm and tcm in a lot of different modules. gr8 battery test, battery tested good. Preformed voltage draw test, positive passed with 72. Negative battery cable failed with 309. Correction: Dielectric grease the ecm, negative battery cable replaced. So thinking, I will locate the service bulletin PIT5405A, read it ans research the G218 code. I think I will replace the battery when I get the truck back.
Ok sport fans, this one is driving me and the dealer nuts. 1. Gauges, especially the tachometer and speedometer go down. 2. Shifting is super erratic from a standing start, kinda like -- shift- -bump- - shift -- bump, really erratic. 3. Steering goes to nothing! Very difficult to turn vehicle, if at all. 4. When this issue first started, the engine, if turned off, wouldn't start for a few minutes. The dealer initially diagnosed the problem as a bad ground cable and replace it. I had them replace the battery harness, supplied by me. Now as one is going down the road, the system goes nuts, then after a few minutes, goes to normal mode. Then its OK for the rest of the day. The original tech tested the battery and its supposed to be OK. The truck has 47400 miles and is on the original battery. The voltage gauge indicates 14 volts while running. I have heard that the battery may be the culprit, the truck upon initially starting in the morning, kinda turns over too much, at least to me. Runs OK after it starts. Its damn cold here in Amarillo today, like 9 degrees! So does anyone have any ideas? I did have a electrical gremlin in my 2002 C-5 until I put a Optima Red Top in it. Makes me wonder now about my truck. Thanks , Jon
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