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Chuck Youngblood

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About Chuck Youngblood

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  1. Thank you for that information. I have found that especially for electrical parts oem is the only way to go.
  2. I had the codes read and it is the impact sensor but the guy did not tell me which one so I may have toeither get one and hope I hit it right or get a pair to save time. I see they are a bit pricy so I was wondering, is there any chance the airbag might be activated with the bad sensor? If so, can I unplug them until I get new ones?
  3. Thank you, I'll check those sensors out.I used an Auto Xray scanner but it probably doesn't check the sdm/srs codes.
  4. My 07 GMC Sierra has started having the airbag light come on but only occasionally and it always goes off with restart. No codes stored.
  5. I just had an alignment done and now that I think about it this noise came around after that. I guess the alignment could have put things in a bind?
  6. Guys, I'm sure this subject has been addressed many times but I could not find anything so please bear with me. My 07 Sierra 1500 classic has started grinding in 4 wheel drive and also starts to lock up at the slightest turn of the wheel. I know I can't make a tight turn on dry pavement in 4 wd but this is the instant I even start to turn. The grinding goes along with that and is LOUD. It never did this before. It has 186,000 on it but has run like a charm until this. I'm fearing transfer case and I really don't want to do that.
  7. Now that my brakes are fixed I can move on to the next problem. I have replaced the t-stat and I still do not have good heat. I did find out that when I restart the truck after getting gas or whatever that the heater for just a short time blows air so hot it would run you out. Then it cools off as I start driving so I am guessing a blend door issue or the heater control itself. It is climate control equipped. Any suggestions?
  8. UPDATE: I just got my brake issue taken care of, it was not the booster this time, it was the front brake chamber that was not letting fluid flow back in so once I drove it for more than a few minutes the brakes were dragging. This was a real pain getting it figured out and I was blaming the booster because it was doing almost the same thing it was doing with the bad booster. Thanks to all who replied, I appreciate it.
  9. There is nothing in that suggestion that is valid in this case, sorry not being an ass but if ny of that was the problem it would be worse cold (?) and the problem would not go away when I remove the vacuum line. I am 70 and I have never had a bad booster and I have had many cars. I did buy it used but no problems for at least 5-6 months. It does do it every time I drive it unless it is a very short trip so yes, the fluid would be warm at least.
  10. I had forgot to tell you that it is the front wheels that are the tightest but with the percentage of braking done by the front I would venture to say it is affecting all 4 corners. I agree about the cheap parts I just had to R&R 3 alternators on another car of mine to get one that worked. I have about had it with this booster b.s. but I could never sell it like it is so I guess as long as NAPA keeps replacing them I'll have to keep changing them, that's the part that pisses me off. I sent an email to the company that puts them out so I'll (hopefully) see what they have to say. I see you have a Yamaha RD 350, I had one of those back when I was riding that little sob is FAST!
  11. Just that, the brakes will start gradually dragging. They will actually hold the truck in gear, if I give it just enough throttle to let it roll then let off it stops immediately, no gradual slow down.
  12. I was starting to think you were on to something with the hoses deteriorating but the darn thing will get to where they are dragging very noticeably and I stop, pull the vacuum line off the booster and the truck rolls free as can be. However, it just starts all over again in a very short time.
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